Volkswagen Passat Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am officially super annoyed with this damn car... The top right and left sides of the timing belt is tight and the bottom left side is also tight where the tensioner is...the problem is the bottom right of the belt on the bottom of the idler pulley and the bottom of the right can shaft is loose, I do not know how to tighten it. Any help will be greatly appreciated
 

Attachments

·
in dire need of an organic chemistry lesson
Joined
·
2,601 Posts
If the tensioner is installed correctly and it properly applies the pressure as it should then the belt should not show any sign of being loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
I had to do the one on my wife's ATQ three damn times before it would work correctly, and I changed the tensioner from a new one to another new one. It was a ride, and all for it to just loose the fuel pump. 🤬
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,890 Posts
NOTE: the tensioner has to be compressed SLOWLY. If it was previously not done slowly, it may already be compromised.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,337 Posts
When the cam lock bar is removed, the belt should then tension evenly (cam sprockets move slightly to do this).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I believe I did it very slowly, I moved the tensioner to tighten the belt I did it gradually to tighten everything. I believe I did it properly as said it the instructions on the write up guide, I will now tighten down cam bolts and then do 2 rotations to make sure everything fit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
By the looks of the belt, it seems as though the left bank (drivers side) cam sprocket didn't rotate when you 'pulled' the pin on the tensioner.

Just a question...
You did loosen the cam sprockets before re-assembly right?
The bolt on the front of the cam sprocket should just be finger tight, just enough to allow the cam sprockets to rotate freely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
By the looks of the belt, it seems as though the left bank (drivers side) cam sprocket didn't rotate when you 'pulled' the pin on the tensioner.

Just a question...
You did loosen the cam sprockets before re-assembly right?
The bolt on the front of the cam sprocket should just be finger tight, just enough to allow the cam sprockets to rotate freely.
I did not have to remove the cam sprockets because I didn't have to do the seals as they were not leaking, I was told to not touch the seals if they are not leaking so I didn't touch them, the cam sprocket bolt did get loosen a bit when I was trying to adjust tension on the belt but now that I have correct tension on the belt I torqued them back down to rated ft lbs and then did rotation 2 times. Everything rotates correctly as far as I can tell, here are so pictures
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,337 Posts
Just a question...
You did loosen the cam sprockets before re-assembly right?
The bolt on the front of the cam sprocket should just be finger tight, just enough to allow the cam sprockets to rotate freely.
Boy, I missed that! Absolutely right, the sprockets have to be loose on the tapered camshaft ends so they can rotate, after the tensioning, the cam bolts are torqued and then the cam bar is removed. That's the whole reason why there was slack on one side. However, if Warmecka tensioned the belt, and the cam bar still fit the cam plates, it's close enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
That timing belt looks sexy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Warmecka

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Boy, I missed that! Absolutely right, the sprockets have to be loose on the tapered camshaft ends so they can rotate, after the tensioning, the cam bolts are torqued and then the cam bar is removed. That's the whole reason why there was slack on one side. However, if Warmecka tensioned the belt, and the cam bar still fit the cam plates, it's close enough.
Thanks glad to know I can continue finishing up
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top