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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been told my Inners are shot, So I have a few questions on changing these bad boys.

1. What size is the Inner head (22mm 24mm)?

2. Do the Inners Freeze into the steering rack?

3. If answer 2 is yes, whats the best way to break them without heating (without trashing the steering rack)?

I have done the outers a few times but never the inners and any help would be helpful before I tackle this project. Thanks again guys:bowdown:
 

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I can't help with #1 due to poor memory, but I can report past experience on #2. My inners, both right and left, were not hard to get out at all. I think since they are protected in the boot, they don't seize. It was harder getting the boots back on than it was to get the inners loose. Check both sides, the passenger side boot might be longer than the drivers side. I would replace both of the boots while you have it apart.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
dude, you got some serious suspension/steering problems. i forgot what the inner is, but you need a pretty huge crowfoot wrench to break the inner tie rod loose. i've never heard of them getting seized, so you probably won't need to heat or even lube.
Well the outers are fine but something with the inner and a rubber bushing...I am just going to replace them and be done with it. They are 8 years old and have been in the worst weather ever...it doesn't shock me. I am glad to hear it should be cake and thank you for the info. I don't think the bently tells me the size, I may need to wait till I have the parts and then go from there. Was thinking a box wrench and a pipe to go over that for braking the inners:D
 

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Put the wrench on the inner tie-rod, make sure you know which way to turn it in order to loosen it, and then hit the wrench handle really hard with a hammer. Sudden impacts break things free much more easily than slow torque, because the longer the torque is applied, the easier it is for the thing being torqued to transfer the force to whatever it's connected to. (We're talking milliseconds here, hence why hitting it with a hammer is the best approach.)
 

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Put the wrench on the inner tie-rod, make sure you know which way to turn it in order to loosen it, and then hit the wrench handle really hard with a hammer. Sudden impacts break things free much more easily than slow torque, because the longer the torque is applied, the easier it is for the thing being torqued to transfer the force to whatever it's connected to. (We're talking milliseconds here, hence why hitting it with a hammer is the best approach.)
Or tighten it a bit, then undo.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, I was in the garage after work and checked out the crow foot. It's huge...1 1/2, around 38mm. I had to order that shit from SK tools because no one had it.
LOL.....that could be there is a nice tool at napa that craddles the inner and you can put a 1/2 drive inpact gun to break it. I maybe able to rent it too, but I have read over and over again that the inners are easier then the outers. I haven't looked into it and really don't know if its frozen, that would be just my luck, but I found otu that my wheel bearing is causing my pull. DONT EVER HIT A CRUB!!!!!!!!! It toke me 6 months to get it working again. Thanks for looking into that for me and the funny thing is I put your TRE's on and then HIT THE CRUB...lol.
 

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I ended up buying a massive cresent wrench to get one of my undone. By the time I got ot out I also had to buy a new inner tie rod. It was so frozed I could end loosen it in a vice after it was out.:banghead:
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I ended up buying a massive cresent wrench to get one of my undone. By the time I got ot out I also had to buy a new inner tie rod. It was so frozed I could end loosen it in a vice after it was out.:banghead:
Well I have to replace the whole thing...the inner is what I am trying get the details on. I have seen millions on the others but every few on the inners.
 
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