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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I love the way it looks but I'm not sure if it's worth it since i seen a lot complaints on this card. Car is on 100k miles and I know it would need some maintenance right away and I would like to know how hard is to work on this engines? Is there a position service for this car just like the b5s?
 

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2007 B6 Passat 2.0T, 1994 E36 M3 3.0L, 2004 Silverado Z71 5.3L
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Read my responses on this thread where guy was basically asking the same question. My post is the novel-sized one... yeah it's a long read but if you like detail, well, you got it. Should tell you all you need to know. TL;DR version: there are a slew of idiosyncratic issues with both FSI and TSI (I address some of the overlaps and differences in the thread) and these are not cars for those who intend to have an A-to-B car that requires minimal maintenance and attention; rather, these cars ARE for people who are either very mechanically inclined and have a lot of technical knowledge as well and can do the right maintenance and repairs OR people who have deep pockets to pay someone for them. I absolutely guarantee you that during your ownership of a VW of any semi-recent generation that you will NEED one of the two aforementioned (wrenching experience or big $$, or both). The upside is that they are, as you said, good looking cars, and they are very enjoyable to drive for the price point. There's also an absolute plethora of modifications on the market if you're into that, and a huge forum presence. VWVortex is much more popular than this forum (this forum is mostly B5 guys and that's it).

Thread:
www.passatworld.com/forums/volkswag...97-2009-vw-passat-2-0t-sedan-reliability.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for all the info and I'm very mechanically aware to do most of the work on them. I had a b5.5 and I did the timing belt twice and the timing chain tensioner but unfortunately on tensioner broke off and jump a tooth like 2 months ago and let me with 2 dead heads and instead of investing money I wanted to upgrade to something newer and I found a cc 2.0 in a very well condition with stick shift transmission but like you mentioned it this forum has little or no info about this cars. Btw I click the link you provided and it says the page cant be found.
 

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I just bought an '09 CC this last January and absolutely love it. Silver with a two-tone interior, manual transmission. I had the headliner redone professionally by a very good shop. It needs new front wheel bearings, rotors, and brakes; I can do this myself, but quality parts aren't cheap. My bigger concern is the dreaded pre-2012 timing chain tensioner, and I'm not sure if I should have it done or not. The dealer tells me not to worry, but that might be a liability issue.

It sounds like you're much more mechanically inclined than I and if you find a good CC, you'll love it. There's a lot of older CCs on the market, so my advice would be to shop around and don't fall in love with the first one that you meet. When you find the one, don't pay too much and be prepared to put a couple thousand into it once you take it home. If the seller holds out for the dealer retail price, just walk away and keep looking.
 

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Thy_ I wish that I read your post before buying my daughter a 2010 Passat. It looks pretty much spot on. The car is incredibly nice looking and I am hoping for no major issues however,
the cost to repair the ones it does have are mind blowing. The hood release and the thermostat I could possibly fix myself, but with little time and lack of proper tools I received a estimate of $1700.00 to repair those along with two TPMS sensors. This was at a VW dealership, so I will shop around for a cheaper price. I just can't believe the thermostat setup and whats involved. Guess I'm happy its stuck open rather than closed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just bought the CC that is in the picture I posted, it's a 09 too with manual trans. Everything seems in good condition except for the auto lights not working and I have the bulb with exclamation symbol in my dash but other than that the cars runs and feel great. I would do the maintenance work on the car as soonest I get back to California, I plan on add the oil catch can to prevent the common rear seal leak and upgraded the coils and spark plugs on and check the version of the tensioner on my car that and the oil change. If theres anything else we have to do to prevent horribles problems to the engine???
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thy_ I wish that I read your post before buying my daughter a 2010 Passat. It looks pretty much spot on. The car is incredibly nice looking and I am hoping for no major issues however,
the cost to repair the ones it does have are mind blowing. The hood release and the thermostat I could possibly fix myself, but with little time and lack of proper tools I received a estimate of $1700.00 to repair those along with two TPMS sensors. This was at a VW dealership, so I will shop around for a cheaper price. I just can't believe the thermostat setup and whats involved. Guess I'm happy its stuck open rather than closed.
Wow! That sounds like alot of money but I haven't do so much of a research to know what's involved in getting the thermostat replace but I doubt that is harder than the 2.8 b5.5 that I also own anyways I hope you get ur daughters car fix and up and running soon.
 

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2007 B6 Passat 2.0T, 1994 E36 M3 3.0L, 2004 Silverado Z71 5.3L
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My apologies for being so late to replying, I don't check this forum as often as the others I post on more often, sorry! I hope I'm not too late


Thank you for all the info and I'm very mechanically aware to do most of the work on them. I had a b5.5 and I did the timing belt twice and the timing chain tensioner but unfortunately on tensioner broke off and jump a tooth like 2 months ago and let me with 2 dead heads and instead of investing money I wanted to upgrade to something newer and I found a cc 2.0 in a very well condition with stick shift transmission but like you mentioned it this forum has little or no info about this cars. Btw I click the link you provided and it says the page cant be found.
I'm not sure why the link wouldn't work for you. It is working fine for me. I'll copy it below again, hopefully it works this time.

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/v...97-2009-vw-passat-2-0t-sedan-reliability.html




Thy_ I wish that I read your post before buying my daughter a 2010 Passat. It looks pretty much spot on. The car is incredibly nice looking and I am hoping for no major issues however,
the cost to repair the ones it does have are mind blowing. The hood release and the thermostat I could possibly fix myself, but with little time and lack of proper tools I received a estimate of $1700.00 to repair those along with two TPMS sensors. This was at a VW dealership, so I will shop around for a cheaper price. I just can't believe the thermostat setup and whats involved. Guess I'm happy its stuck open rather than closed.
Yes, everything that goes wrong on a VW is ridiculously expensive. Even if you do the repairs yourself the parts are typically more expensive than most other makes. Again, the only reason to buy a VW is if you are just really in love with the brand, which many of us are, myself included, and that is usually because of the styling, the high quality interiors, and the great driving characteristics that come with these cars at the initial price point. These cars are very reasonably priced up front compared to others you get in the same price range. They just cost so much to maintain.

Anyway, I might be able to help you out on the TPMS sensors... I have 4 for sale. Let me know if you still need TPMS



I just bought the CC that is in the picture I posted, it's a 09 too with manual trans. Everything seems in good condition except for the auto lights not working and I have the bulb with exclamation symbol in my dash but other than that the cars runs and feel great. I would do the maintenance work on the car as soonest I get back to California, I plan on add the oil catch can to prevent the common rear seal leak and upgraded the coils and spark plugs on and check the version of the tensioner on my car that and the oil change. If theres anything else we have to do to prevent horribles problems to the engine???
I have a BSH oil catch can for sale which I am removing from my car soon. I am only removing because I am switching to a completely different valve cover design which requires a full custom catch can setup and a completely deleted/PCV system reroute (the BSH is only a front PCV delete/reroute). The front PCV/reroute is still by far the more important of the two, the rear is not as big a deal. This catch can setup and block-off plate will make sure you don't have PCV issues and keep blowby from building up in your boost passageways and intercooler. Please let me know if you are interested

As for things you can do to prevent problems with this engine. Read the thread I linked above. If the link still doesn't work I don't know why it wouldn't, but I'll find some other way of getting it to you. It has pretty much everything you need to look out for. If you need any other information not answered in there, any particular info, please feel free to ask here or PM. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Second link worked, thanks.

Well after reading the other post I think I have cover everything that is mention except for the chain tensioner wich I would do in the next couple of days once I get back home and have access to some tools.
I wish I had read your response yesterday because I already place an order for a catch can, plugs, coils and I'm hesitating on getting a BOV that I saw online, RKX is the brand i believe but i dont know which one is best for this cars.
Also yesterday while I was driving the car I notice that the fog lights don't work and neither the high beams turn on and the auto light switch dont work =/ btw the car is a 2009 tsi and has 115xxx miles, I checked the intake and it has the latest revision so I assume that the clean the valves when it was changed. Car runs very well and feels very strong, turns on right up.
The last comment in your other post is kinda scary where the guy says after 120xxx miles VW should be dump x.x
 

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Second link worked, thanks.

Well after reading the other post I think I have cover everything that is mention except for the chain tensioner wich I would do in the next couple of days once I get back home and have access to some tools.
I wish I had read your response yesterday because I already place an order for a catch can, plugs, coils and I'm hesitating on getting a BOV that I saw online, RKX is the brand i believe but i dont know which one is best for this cars.
Also yesterday while I was driving the car I notice that the fog lights don't work and neither the high beams turn on and the auto light switch dont work =/ btw the car is a 2009 tsi and has 115xxx miles, I checked the intake and it has the latest revision so I assume that the clean the valves when it was changed. Car runs very well and feels very strong, turns on right up.
The last comment in your other post is kinda scary where the guy says after 120xxx miles VW should be dump x.x
Oh crap, right, I forgot you had TSI for a second when I was posting.... well my catch can wouldn't have worked for you anyway. PCV design on TSI is different. Which brand did you get for the catch can? Some are better than others...

Regarding BOV... You probably don't want to do that. BOV were fine on the B5/Mk4 generation but the B6/Mk5 and up have different boost management. The boost system, due to the style of diverter valve, is setup on the premise of recirculating boost (and venting only enough as needed) and the ECU is programmed to expect this when it comes to the calibrations it does basically every nano-second lol. If you put a BOV on you will dump all the boost the ECU is expecting to be recirculated and the ECU will be confused. It's not gonna make your car not run, it may not even throw a code but it is still not a wise performance choice. Buying a BOV on a B6/Mk5 or newer generation is flat out saying "no" to performance and "yes" to noise. Make your choice accordingly.


As for the lights, that sucks man. Welcome to VW electrical gremlins, they are a bitch. All I can say is to do the typical checks. First check to see if a soft code is stored that may give a hint, probably not unless it's a circuit/power issue, but worth check. Otherwise, do the usual and check fuse, check wiring, check bulbs (although if they all died at once that is pretty peculiar). Unfortunately, electrical is not my forte, definitely my worst area when it comes to cars, so I can't just instantly tell you what it probably is or at least what to do to narrow it all down like I could with mechanical things.

Regarding you valves, yeah sounds like they cleaned them if your start and power is strong and smooth. If you wanna be 100% sure you can remove the IAT and use a little snake cam to get in there at front of manifold and check them. FYI, contrary to popular believe (perpetuated by sleezy marketing), catch cans do not prevent carbon buildup on the valves. They may slow it to an extent, but not by a whole lot. Your valves will get dirty again and about the only way that this can be stopped completely is something like water methanol injection which sprays into the intake stream while driving.

Regarding that last comment from the guy in my post, he was taking it a little too far but he isn't entirely wrong. It is a risky proposition buying a VW (at least the more modern gens from yours up to the newer ones) at 100K plus. Not because they don't last that long, they absolutely last twice that long or more if you maintain them very very well, but because if the previous owner that ran it for 100K did NOT maintain it well it is going to almost inevitably have some problems within fairly short order.

Being that you have a TSI, you should IMMEDIATELY do the engine timing chain/tensioner and make ABSOLUTELY sure you get the newest revision tensioner because it is the only one that lasts. All the other revisions before it are taking your life into your own hands lol. And you should also start using Liquimoly Leichtlauf 5W-40. There are several different LM 5W40, make sure it is the Leichtlauf. $35 for 5L on Amazon, and use ONLY a Mann OEM filter if you want your oil pressure to be correct. That LM Leichtlauf is the best of the numerous oils I've used and had lab analyzed. It's absolutely worth it. Otherwise, M1 0W-40 is the best bang for your buck. It's not as good as the LM but it is quite good and it is $25 for 5L at Walmart. Again, never use anything but the Mann OEM filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That's the one I ordered for 200$ and the BOV i seen alot reviews but mostly for the gti using the bov and apparently all the reviews are good. I just find out that the car was some sort of rental car for business and has the carmax stickers on the windows and I made another post where i put a video link to the sound of the engine. I would use the moly oil that u recommend and the OEM filter, I ordered the red coils and some ngk sparkplugs and the catch can for the oil. Regarding the lights I check all the fuses and they are good however I have a light on my dashboard that I believe it's the one for the lights when theres a problem and I'm about to get my laptop and use my shared version of vcds and see what I get. Thank you for all the info and tips.
 

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That's the one I ordered for 200$ and the BOV i seen alot reviews but mostly for the gti using the bov and apparently all the reviews are good.
I don't recognize that catch can, what brand is it.

As for the BOV, of course the reviews are positive: they got what they wanted, a bunch of noise, and they don't know the intricacies how that BOV affects the boost recirculation system. You have to realize that most car owners, and even most modders, honestly don't know much about how their car works or how their modifications could have adverse affects that the companies marketing them don't mention. There are a lot of trendy mods like this that do a certain thing that modders want but also change how something else works and only the ones who really know these cars know this because the companies certainly aren't going to tell anyone.

Feel free to get the BOV if you like, it's your car, but be certain that what I explained in the previous post is how the boost systems on the Mk5/B6 and up platforms are designed and that a BOV will affect them in the way that I described. It's not a significant impact but it is still an alteration on how the system was designed and what the ECM was programmed to expect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah I'll probably wait on that bov but I read that the stock is bad so I would need to look for another options anyways...
No luck with my fog lights I check the fuses by the driver seat and all of them are working and also my wiper wash sprayers are not working either, I read some where that the fuse for that pump is the same for the fog lights but I couldn't find any diagrams for my car online any advice where to look? Also I change the light switch for the euro style to see if that would solve the problem and still the same no high beams no fog lights and the auto light doesn't work. Maybe my car is not equipped with auto lighting but I know for sure I got fogs... unless the previous owner added them and never wore those up, never thought about that. Also I dont have courtesy door lights those are apparently just reflectors wtf. No lights what a disappointment. However the car runs extremely well, feels really powerful with a nice launcher.
 

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1) Only the old revision G Diverter Valve with the rubber diaphram is bad. The newer revision D diverter valve is bullet proof and pretty much does not fail. There are some slight performance tweaks that could make the revision D better from a performance perspective (and products like the Go Fast Bits DV+ address those) but from a reliability stand point the revision D valve is perfectly fine. So my recommendation is to just get that. Don't bother with the GFB DV+ because unless you are a performance freak like me you won't notice the difference it makes. Again, I encourage you not to put on a BOV. If for some reason you feel the urge to modify it then get the GFB instead. At least you'd be increasing performance not hurting it. But seriously, just get the revision D if you don't already have one and be done with it. There's a reason that companies like APR literally use the stock revision D diverter valve on there 600+hp race cars... it works well, it is borderline failure-proof, and the other products on the market that replace or modify it don't play nice with the ECU (e.g. your BOV). If you don't have revision D already, I have one that is brand new that I could ship you but the part is pretty cheap even from a dealer so it's not gonna save you all that much money. Up to you, let me know.

2) Wherever you bought the Euro switch from must have failed to mentioned that you need to do some VCDS coding to get the additional options it has to work. Either that or you didn't read about it fully.

3) When I get a chance I'll pull up the fuse diagrams in the Bentley manual but the Bentley for out cars is fkin electronic and only works on XP so I gotta go dig up my old dinosaur laptop with XP in a virtual runtime to run the Bentley manual and its annoying, so hang tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Good news!!! I got my lights working properly. I had to take the car to an euroshop and they had to code everything since apparently the previous owner recode the ECm lights and fuck up everything but now high beams, corner turns and fog lights are working as they should n my euro switch with all the options but now I have a problem with the wiper wash, wipers work but not the sprayers I dont have a club where to start with this. Thanks for all your help
 

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Good news!!! I got my lights working properly. I had to take the car to an euroshop and they had to code everything since apparently the previous owner recode the ECm lights and fuck up everything but now high beams, corner turns and fog lights are working as they should n my euro switch
Yeah maybe previous owner fked around with the ECU but either way you were going to need somebody to code your ECU to get that euro switch to work which is EXACTLY what I tried to tell you in the post above. If the company that sold you the euro switch didn't mentioned that you NEED to code to get it to work then they were being dishonest.
 
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