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I'm taking delivery in 24 hours. Here's the agreement that the dealership and I agreed on. The GLX that I purchased does not have mud flaps or a cd changer. It does have OnStar though. The price that I have gotten the car for is $26,300 and that includes the destination charge also. I was also approved by the F&I department at the promotional rate of 1.9% for 60 months at that price. What other charges will I incur when I wak in to sign the deal? Taxes, tags, registration, title??? I know in minnesota tax is 6.5% I just want to know exactly what items they will add after that $26,300 price. Don't want to get screwed at the last minute. Also, I heard about extra discounts consumer may get if they pay cash instead of taking the financing. What are those other discounts? I was also approved by my bank at 3.9% apr. What to you guys recommend I do? By the way, the $26.300 price tag includes destination charge ($575), and the VW Loyalty Discount ($1000.00). The reason why I asked is because I didn't even make that offer or negotiated. They came straight to me and gave me this offer. The only drawback is that they don't have the car but they have one in transaction and have shown me proof. Please Help!

thanks in advance
 

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if they offered the deal, it can be presumed they're able to sell for less. My advice is to go in telling them "you like the car, but not ready to finance that much." It worked for me, and it seems their first response was "well how much are you willing to finance?" That's simply putting the ball in your hands. When using this method, if it doesn't work the first time, and they state there's no way to go lower, check their response when you tell them that's ok, and walk out. It's awesome when they tell you to wait while they talk to their sales manager. Best advice, make it fun, and see how long you can tie up your salesman giving you the offer you want. Keep in mind, there will always be other Passat's to buy, so if you don't take this one, you may find something better down the line. I wish I found this website before finding my car. I would have bought a modded one for the same price.
 

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When you are done with the salesperson, the F&I person will try to sell you
a bunch of additional stuff ... undercoating, paint protection, etching the VIN
number in all the window glass, extended warranty, lojack, etc.

That's where the dealer makes the most profit [by % anyway] ...

They'll also play all sorts of games with the interest rate and try to entice you
with a *target* monthly payment ... while adjusting the amount financed to
give the numbers they want to see.

Negotiate hard to get the purchase price as low as possible, because that's what
your tax / license / registration / title fee(s) are based on ... don't buy junk
you don't need [like undercoating, glass etching, upholstery protection], push
hard on things you may want [like an extended warranty ...] and when all is said
and done, pay the tax / license / registration / title fee(s) in cash, so you're not
financing them for 5 years ...

For reference, a typical extended warranty that they'll try to charge $1900 - $2000
for costs them about $700 ... so offer them $1000, but don't let them play with
the other numbers to make up their *lost* profit ...

Good luck !
 

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Whatever you do, when you show up to take delivery, do not let them pul the ol bait & switch on ya.. Poor Sparky :p

"I know what must have happened... It didn't come in!"

 

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Anthra,

I believe you can do better on the price of that car. You should know, that the car you are about to take delivery on, has about $3000 worth of negotiating room, of which you only got $1000. Check out edumunds.com, locate your car, and find the incentives available. There is a $1000 current VW owner incentive, but the better prize is the $2000 "Marketing Support" incentive which means factory to dealer CASH as soon as the car is reported sold. You should get as much of that as possible. The dealer has thrown you a "dog biscuit" to keep you happy, while holding a juicey T-bone steak hidden behind his back.

Do make use of the FREE internet quotes from dealers. IN my experience they will give you a better price than you have now, and even then know that there is still some room there to negotiate. Don't forget about the HOLDBACK. If the dealer was to give you $3000 off invoice, they would have to settle for just the HOLDBACK, which is 3%(MSRP - Delivery Charge(575)). Comes out to about $900. NO DEALER wants to settle for just holdback, so YOU throw THEM a biscuit of $200 to start with and go no higher than $500. Bottom line....get more of the $3000 pie. So far you only got $1000 of it.

This method worked for me when I got my car in Nov 2003.

Good Luck.
 

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I posted this elsewhere and it might be worth thinking about .. it puts the onus on them to reduce your costs.. but you need more than one dealer.. and I hope the 24 hours isn't a time lmit on you accepting the offer ..

Anyway

I have a very good friend who is a owner of a GM dealer and the Sales manager of the same dealer is also a friend. A tactic they hate when dealing on two like ( identically equipped cars .. same $$) cars between 2 dealers is as follows.

A) the cars are worth the same $$ to the penny

B) Find an online calculator and calculate the payments based on interest rates available over X months .. In other words if you can afford $400/Mo and the calculation says to pay the car off = 48 months .. thats the figure your looking for .. 48 Mo..
C) go to both dealers and tell them you don't give a crap about the trade value .. don't give a crap about the new car cost .. don't give a crap about taxes/destination charges/interest rates/prep charges/ documentation fees .. that you want THEM to tell you what your monthly payment is going to be over *48* months.

( First thing they will ask is what you want to pay .. stick to your guns here .. make them quote .. also they will ask what you want for yours .. make them quote. If you say you want $10,000 they will say they love to but the manager will only allow $8000 )



What this does is ;

1) Makes them find the best financing
2) Makes them lowball the margin
3) Makes them drop or lower some of the fees that add after.
4) Makes them give the highest trade value.

The math in the end is easy .. and suprising.

Dealer A) $380 / mo

Dealer B) $400 / Mo

Diff $20 / mo x 48 = $960 in YOUR pocket.

My Passat dropped over $1500 from the best price offered doing it this way and a difference or $2600 between two dealers on the exact same car.

You will be suprised how things will drop in proce if they want to sell a car. If they don't want to deal this way .. walk away.. Your the customer .. believe it or not .. YOU set the rules. Keep it in mind that You don't have to buy a car to make a living .. but THEY have to sell one to make a living.
 
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