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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Sudden Overheat issue -Water Pump Impeller Problem

Ok guys & gals, I seem to have the wierdest problems happen to me lately.
First the ICM, then door lock actuator and now this. It's the ticky-tacky problems that make my blood boil for this car. I'm wondering how many other random parts I've never heard of can suddenly cause me to think trade-in.

'98 1.8T AEB w/ A/C

I'm driving on the freeway and the oil temp sensor beeps. I'm at 3/4 now and climbing. I let it get almost to redline before I can get off the freeway and it immediatly cools down a notch. I get out, pop the hood and listen to my engine boil. This sucks. I call my friend who tells me about the thermo switch, so I ask the dealer about that, says makes sense and only $25!!!

Hold the phone, I pop on the forum, check out the search box and find a thread here http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218409&highlight=overheat
about a plastic water pump impeller. WTHIT?

Any help would be useful, I'm trying to keep this one a DIY job, but still not interested in boiling my car to smitherenes.
 

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Hi if its coolant temp related check your water pump as the impeller is known to fall off the shaft resulting in no water circulation ,seen this plenty of times when i worked at an audi main dealer.
Hope this helps
 

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Yeah, you're thinking coolant temp if you're looking at the dash gauge above your tachometer.

How many miles are you at? You can replace the water pump with a metal one by itself, or take the chance to do a lot of maintenance (like timing belt) all at once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oil temp or coolant temp?
Thanks for the quick response, it is the one that looks like a sailboat, the coolant temp sensor I believe (sorry for the mis-quote). My wife said, "why does your car say the sailboat isn't working?"

^^Troy, I'm at 97,000 miles and I just did the timing belt at 80k. If the impeller is a possibility I'll check with my mechanic, or look at the bill, to see if he also replaced the water pump at that time.

^^Pson Crazy the crap we just deal with. I'm still waiting to complete the lock actuator thing, for now I don't have dome lights & power windows. I hate it when I have to open the door a pinch to order at the drive thru. :banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Any more ideas

I'm still a bit unsettled about this. I think it's because I really don't want to accept a new water pump as the solution, mainly because I don't want to pay for it. I'm thinking that I might drive it a little bit more to see how it is behaving to narrow it down. Anybody have any more ideas?
 

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A couple things to check to see if you are getting circulation of coolant.
1) Turn the heat on in the car and see is you're getting hot air out the vents as the temp gauge starts to move off the lower peg. If not or if air is just warm after the car heats up, probably coolant pump. If air is hot then maybe the thermostat is stuck closed.
2) Once the car reaches 190*F, feel the upper and lower radiator hoses and the radiator. If the radiator and lower hose is cool, then probably thermostat is stuck but could be coolant pump. If radiator is hot, then maybe your viscous fan clutch is bad.
3) Once the temp starts to climb past 190*F, turn on your heat in the car and see if coolant temp drops. If it drops, probably thermostat or fan clutch. If it doesn't drop, probably coolant pump.

Also, is your pressure cap on the coolant reservoir okay? Color of coolant okay? Coolant level okay?
 

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If it overheats on the highway and is fine around town, the water pump impeller is slipping. If it was not replaced during the timing belt change, it should have been.

If you drive it and overheat it again, you could warp the head and spend lots of $$$$ to fix it.
 

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Clues:
Typically the WP impeller will only slip after the coolant warms up somewhat - it expands with temperature and then begins to slip. This means that everything will be normal until you reach the critical temperature, and then the coolant temperature will rapidly increase. Therefore, you will likely get heat from the heater, etc., until the car nears normal operating temperature and then the heater will cool off while the coolant temperature increases due to lack of coolant circulation.

Dave W.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
mechanic confirmed

I decided last night to just take it in because I didn't want to do what PZ stated by overheating my head and screwing myself even more in the name of science. I don't have the budget of the mythbusters:p If anyone is in the Salt Lake area they should be taking their Dub to Alpine Foreign on 9th South, they're awesome. I had them poke around, told them my impeller prediction (thanks to all y'all) and they're in the process now of replacing my water pump. Just so happens that my car sits at 97k right now with a new timing belt just barely done Grrrr!!! I'm opting not to spend the extra $170 on a new timing belt and just do the water pump. Apparently when they did the timing belt the water pump it didn't show any signs of wear and they don't replace those OEM pumps b/c they're the good ones. If anyone from VWoA or VAG for that matter ever reads this, on the record, WHAT THE HELL WERE YOU THINKING with the plastic impeller? Ok, I've ranted. I'm out.
 

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How much is that running you? It's one of the reasons I always recommend replacing the water pump while the timing belt is changed.
 

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you can check the water pump impeller by removing the thermostat housing & thermostat ,it is then possible to get your finger inside and feel the impeller,just check to see if it turns or is broken up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How much is that running you? It's one of the reasons I always recommend replacing the water pump while the timing belt is changed.
I just paid $233.xx from my trusty mechanics at Alpine Foreign here in Salt Lake, did I meniton they are the best Dub dudes in town? :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: They gave me a break on labor of about $100 because I just did the timing belt with them 15k ago, so it should cost about $330-380 depending. That was really nice since I'm out of work right now.

I asked about the new water pump that they just installed. I wondered if it should be a replacement part with every timing belt change, but they said that this one should be fine for at least every other... we'll see.

Anyone have it replaced recently and had a comparable price for us?
 

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That is a very good price, they must have felt guilty.
 

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I just paid $233.xx from my trusty mechanics at Alpine Foreign here in Salt Lake, did I meniton they are the best Dub dudes in town? :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: They gave me a break on labor of about $100 because I just did the timing belt with them 15k ago, so it should cost about $330-380 depending. That was really nice since I'm out of work right now.

I asked about the new water pump that they just installed. I wondered if it should be a replacement part with every timing belt change, but they said that this one should be fine for at least every other... we'll see.

Anyone have it replaced recently and had a comparable price for us?
I agree with them. On an AEB the timing belt doesn't have to be changed with the T-belt. Price seems extremely fair. The part is about $75 and it's at least a 3 hour job.
 

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actually, i priced a timing belt for my car for $30 at the local auto-zone.
water pump was $110
 

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Yup! I just towed mine in to VW with the same symptoms. Service rep stated that it's likely the impeller - cheap plastic assembly, not built for the long haul he tells me. Then he looks at the service record and sees VW waranteed a pump replacement for me at 45K (40K miles ago...). So if they warantee it again, I guess I'll need to spend my savings replacing the door lock actuator

Grrrrr...
 
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