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So, here's the rundown. 2003 Passat 1.8t automatic. It started to accelerate extremely slow, and I mean slow. You can hear the engine rev higher when you press the gas, but you get nowhere fast. Engine light came on, went and got it read, came up with a p0441, EVAP system incorrect purge flow. I did some looking around, and read up on that code, so I know where I need to start, but my question is, would this code make the computer put the car in Limp mode? I have no tiptronic, no 2, 3, or 4. The dash screen doesn't show what gear I selected, they are all in red. I just want to know if I should even look at the EVAP system, or if the limp mode is being caused by something else. Any help is greatly appreciated, as I need to get this fixed ASAP. Need my ride running right, I do a lot of driving on my job.
 

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It seems you have a problem and the code that you retrieved is unrelated. Your problem is in your transmission. In order to have a better idea of the problem more information is needed; How many miles in your ride so far? When was the last time the ATF and filter was changed? How the problem started? As soon as you provide more info we may be able to determine the problem as in general can be the transmission clutch packs or something easy as the transmission range sensor.
 

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It has 125000 miles on it. I looked through all the old records/receipts from the previous owner, but I didn't see anything for a transmission flush or filter change. I don't want to assume anything, but the guy kept a pretty detailed receipt stack. Nothing jumps out from anything that he took it in for, but he did have a hitch installed on it. As for how it started, got up for work, started the car, backed down the driveway fine, put it in drive and had no acceleration. It drives, but to get it going, you have to have the gas 3/4 of the way down to get moving. Once it gets up to speed, it's sitting at 1750 to 2000 rpm while doing 35 to 45 mph. One other odd note. When I come to a stop, once I start going again, the locks click down like when you first shift into drive. If anyone needs more info, let me know, I'll give as much as I can. Thanks.
 

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Sorry, forgot to mention this in the last post, but the engine light didn't come on until 2 days after the problem started, and we only got the one code.
 

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You can start by checking the purge valve for any external sign of failure, it is located on top of the air box. As you already retrieved that code you should replace it and go from there. I hope this is not something more serious as limp mode generally is related to transmission problems. The part # is 058 133 459 F.
 

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Where did you have the scan performed?

You need someone that can scan the transmission. The trans is in 'Limp Mode' or Safe Mode. Meaning it is stuck in a lower gear ( to get you off the road or to a safe place) due to the fact that the computer for the transmission detected something a miss with the transmission.

Most times you can shut the car off. Wait a few seconds then restart and all will work as it should. Same is true when you disconnect the battery. Wait a few min then reconnect and start. If after doing this the gear select indicators go back to normal (isn't all lit up) you can drive as normal but it must be fixed or it will happen again.

There are many things that could be causing this.

Multi-function switch/ Range switch (same thing) mounted on the outside of the trans.

Old/ low/ dirty trans fluid and or filter. Especially if they towed something heavy.

Water egress (soaked) TCM (Transmission Control Module) Located on the floorboard on the passenger side under the carpet. Look here for water intrusion/Egres

1st thing is to get the TCM scanned and DO NOT! drive the car while all gear indicators are all lit up.

On a side note.......Buy a 409.1 cable off EBay then go the- RossTech website and download the free 'Lite' version to a laptop. This give you the ability to scan your entire car for codes and do a few other things.
 

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While in limp mode, the transmission is locked in 4th gear. (This puts a lot of strain on the TC)
I suggest you first get the engine running properly, check the evap system and the MAF sensor.
If the ECM can't determine the engine output torque, it puts the transmission into limp mode.
 

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I'll add that trying to force a car with a malfunctioning automatic transmission is likely to cause a minor problem to become an expensive problem. You say that you can "hear the engine rev higher when you press the gas". Is the tachometer showing that too?
 

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I was just having this problem, i had a bad range sensor to start and it threw my tranny into limp mode whenever i hit reverse. Starting in netural after clearing the codes and going directly into drive made the care drivable until i fixed the sensor.

Now that thats fixed im getting a bad n216 solenoid code. But that only comes up time to time

Sent from my SM-G530P using Tapatalk
 

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I am from just East of Cle. gotta think water ingress , Oct. was the monsoon month and not to mention leaves/detritus clogging everything in sight
 

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It has 125000 miles on it. I looked through all the old records/receipts from the previous owner, but I didn't see anything for a transmission flush or filter change. I don't want to assume anything, but the guy kept a pretty detailed receipt stack. Nothing jumps out from anything that he took it in for, but he did have a hitch installed on it. As for how it started, got up for work, started the car, backed down the driveway fine, put it in drive and had no acceleration. It drives, but to get it going, you have to have the gas 3/4 of the way down to get moving. Once it gets up to speed, it's sitting at 1750 to 2000 rpm while doing 35 to 45 mph. One other odd note. When I come to a stop, once I start going again, the locks click down like when you first shift into drive. If anyone needs more info, let me know, I'll give as much as I can. Thanks.
I was told from a VW mechanic that are particular model of Passat(1.8L Turbo Automatic) has a sealed transmission case. Being the reason there is no dipstick for checking the transmission and actually nowhere to fill transmission fluid either. Other then a small over flow valve om transmissions ass end.
After saying all of this to me he proceeds to tell me that my Passat's transmission fluid should never have to be change and is good for the life of the car. 😒😔
 

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Are you in limp mode, or piggybacking this post ? Year and mileage would help, ....The transmissions are theoretically "sealed" for life however depending on mileage they should be "serviced" 5-6 quarts of correct/recommended fluid and a filter ,although you cannot completely drain, you can get a very significant amount out. Others can chime in as to what intervals they do theirs at, but I can personally assure you changing the transmission's filter and fluid is money very well spent. However, there is a specific and methodical procedure for doing the fluid and filter change, outlined here many times in the "search community" archives. It is very easy to do ,just have to do it "by the book" . Oh, by the way there is a drain hole, and there is a fill hole , ask the mechanic if they are filled for life, why is there a drain hole.
 

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And don't forget, they used to have a shelf life on the trans fluid bottles of only a few years. The mechanic should know better. Taligentx was one of the 1st to change the trans fluid and did a great number of DIY writeups.
 

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Are you in limp mode, or piggybacking this post ? Year and mileage would help, ....The transmissions are theoretically "sealed" for life however depending on mileage they should be "serviced" 5-6 quarts of correct/recommended fluid and a filter ,although you cannot completely drain, you can get a very significant amount out. Others can chime in as to what intervals they do theirs at, but I can personally assure you changing the transmission's filter and fluid is money very well spent. However, there is a specific and methodical procedure for doing the fluid and filter change, outlined here many times in the "search community" archives. It is very easy to do ,just have to do it "by the book" . Oh, by the way there is a drain hole, and there is a fill hole , ask the mechanic if they are filled for life, why is there a drain hole.
I am in limp mode technically. But it doesnt start out like that when I turn over my vehicle. It takes a bit of hi rev into gear(while it slips and staggers really hard) eventually catching a gear. Doesnt matter if I am in drive or sport(shifting mode). But as soon as I try to accelerate into a higher gear, the rpms shoot up and it slips.
 

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I am in limp mode technically. But it doesnt start out like that when I turn over my vehicle. It takes a bit of hi rev into gear(while it slips and staggers really hard) eventually catching a gear. Doesnt matter if I am in drive or sport(shifting mode). But as soon as I try to accelerate into a higher gear, the rpms shoot up and it slips.
Eventually the limp mode kicks in. I have had it kick it in while on 2nd gear, 3rd gear and surprisingly 4th gear as well. Its like it kicks in at which ever gear it should technically be in at the point where it tell it to engage.
 

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I would check fluid level asap with the outlined fill protocol to rule out a low fluid condition. Would only need 1 quart/liter to check........anything in without anything out would indicate service needed
 

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The transmission will set a trouble code that can be read with a decent OBD-II reader. Many generic ones won't read the transmissions code but VCDS and X-Tool 401 are 2 I know that will. Reading the code(s) will help a lot to tell what is wrong.
That said, I agree with cchief22. You should drain the trans oil, put in a new filter and re-fill the trans and see what happens. It's not hard but there is a specific procedure that needs to be followed and you can find all the gory details here in PassatWorld. If that doesn't fix the problem you will almost certainly need to drop the trans. The problem could just be the torque converter or it could be the oil pump or other problems with the trans. Knowing the codes would help to determine that but even if it's just the torque converter, the trans needs to come out to replace that.
 

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What does the oil pump have to do with transmission issues?
Last year I bottomed out coming out of a wallgreens. It was around the coldest month of the winter here in Minnesota. The inner city streets are horribly kept up. Basically I cracked/split my oil pan wide open, barely limping the .5mile home.
Well I finally took on the project in my garage to change the oil pan. This requires dropping the subframe while suspending the engine with a series of chains wrapped around my trusses. Just to be able to get the clearence Needed to slip out the oil pan.
I got all of that done. I took off my turbo oil uptake and cleaned out all the sludge I could get at in the gear box. Project went excellent considering I had zero help and or knowledge.
However my dash waring comes up very periodically to warn me to stop engine/oil pressure/see mangle. It has been doing that even before my oil pan change....but more often now.
Then I noticed when shifting done from 5th to 4th gear as well 2nd into 1st It would slam hard into gear. With an extreme jolting thud.
Now just the other day out of nowhere my rpms have been going wack. I use sport shift a lot, and my gear bounce from 1st to 3rd with high revs and sometimes drop from 4th into 2nd. Eventually this sets off the safe mode where I am stuck in third or forth gear. All gears light up as if they are all active. PRND432
 

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what Lowegian was referring to was the oil/fluid pump within the transmission. Suggest at minimum you check fluid leve ,filling if necessary, before any more or serious damage occurs. As a separate issue you cleaned out all the sludge in the "gearbox" / crankcase, regardless a lot of times the cleaned "pieces" that you might have missed or loosened have migrated to your pickup tube/screen again..... thus the "stop" engine, Not knowing year or mileage,replacing the oil pump is an option. I would also replace oil pressure switch as that is probably also compromised with the crap floating around. The screen is most likely clogging or partially blocked, cleaning does help but the coke build up on it only attracts more, you should also be running the "big kahuna" oil filter to add capacity.
 
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