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Discussion Starter #1
I feel a wobble when I brake. The steering wheel (column) vibrates. The car brakes just fine, but it annoys me enough to merit a post here ;) I know what you're gonna say - warped rotors. The car only has 26k miles on it, I bought it with 16k in October (and put 5k miles on it in 15 days recently, all highway). I changed front brake pads @ 18k, to Minted Red Box. My old brake pads had a lot of life left, but the sensor wires were broken and I assumed they were worn. Anyway, when the shop installed new pads, after telling me the old pads were in good shape (and I said "well, I already got the new ones so just put them on"), I asked them to inspect the rotors. They said they were fine, and I looked at them and, altho not an expert, they seemed fine. I then went to bigger wheels (but, of the same overall diameter). Can't remember exactly when I started noticing it, and can't tell if it was there ever since I got the car and I've just become more sensitive to it, or if it's a new development. I especially notice it after driving smoothly on hw and then breaking. Feels cheap, messed up, even tho it brakes just fine. In city driving I don't notice it as much - strange. Problem is, I just moved from NYC to SoFLA and there ain't no more city driving :)

So, my question is.. could it be anything else other than the rotors? I hope it's the rotors, as anything else would probably be a lot more expensive, but like I said - they seemed fine. It's just an annoyance, but it feels very bad.. It feels like the wheels are wobbling when I brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, there's no two ways about it, huh? Is re-surfacing an option? I found Zimmerman cross-drilled (which doesn't matter for street use) rotors for $130 a pair @ parts4vw, which is acceptable.
 

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resurface, if they have enough meat on them. cross drilled rotors, from what I understand, cannot be turned. driving in the mountains, through water puddles, or extreme cold is common for warping rotors. I recommend getting normal rotors with upgraded pads in case you ever need to turn your rotors. When buying drilled or slotted rotors, you're pretty much going to be changing rotors everytime you buy pads. Please correct me if I'm wrong. HTH
 

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Don't hold your hopes that the OEM rotors will have enough meat to resurface them. AFAIK, OEM rotors have are pretty much at minimum thickness when new.

Cross-drilled rotors for street use is more form then function. It has been discussed several times on the forum and I am sure a search on rotors will shed some light on good replacements. If I recall correctly, Zimmerman X-drilled rotors have cracked on a few members here.

Good luck!
 

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MasTRE .. its prolly 95+% chance its rotors but if you have the time swap the wheels front to back and see if its still in the steering wheel. If it now goes away or is in the seat you might have a tire problem. I just discovered one on mine that acted a lot like that. I figured Oh crap .. here we go .. rotors at 18,000 miles. It was a tire that developed a flat spot and Continental replaced it 100%.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've torated tires (wheels) front to back (directional tires) and the same prob is still there. I did have a horrible alignment problem that nearly destroyed my fronts (that are now on the rear) in just 2k miles. So, what's a good/cheap souce for OEM rotors? Or, is there something better out there that's neither x-drilled nor slotted?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what am i looking for? when I had the fronts aligned, the guy looked at them and didn't say anything was wrong with them

My local dealer (Borton, in Delray Beach, FL) wants $96 per rotor! The same place that charged me $10 (+ tax) for a 1.8T oil filter!
 

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i agree with hkpassat. have em turned then ask around for help installing it your own. you'll save a bunch of money. 10 bucks for a filter is nuts.
 
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