Volkswagen Passat Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Club B5,

I am new to the forum, but have been looking on it for about a week now. First is first, I have a 2000 Passat (B5 I assume), 1.8T with almost 62,000 miles on it and nothing but 93 octane goes in her tank. Took it in for its normal oil change and had them change the air filter as well. I drove off satisfied, but about 2 days later my CEL came on. I had the "Pros" at Autozone look at it (I use the term "Pros" loosly) but he said the code was P1128, system too lean.

I came back and started researching that code and found Club B5 and I have only started to see how deep the rabbit hole is. First I changed my fuel filter and cleaned my MAF sensor, props to those that put up the how tos. The filter went on fine as well as the MAF cleaning, though I used throttle body cleaner on it, I hope that was ok! Well of course it ran like a$$ for a while to get all the air out of the the lines and what have you. Went to Autozone to have him clear out the CEL, and boy did things get worse. So I found a few threads that said put on new vacum hoses if mine were worn, indeed they were.

So after the the new vacum hoses (except for the long on that runs in front of the engine, will do that this weekend) I did notice that there was a little more pep in ole' girls step, but still the CEL didn't clear out. Well, the next morning my CEL started blinking for just a few seconds and then went steady. Now she purrs once she hits 900 RPMs but getting there it sounds like she is going to keel over.

I read that mabye my coil packs were going bad, so in good spirit I took them off and took out my spark plugs to see them as well. I cleaned the seals of the coil packs and after I was done I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes. Connected everything back up and I presume I reset the ECU casue it ran like REAL a$$ there for a while and got better, way better. Now the CEL is still on but it blinks a few times at first then steady again. Now when I crank her up she idles to around 1500 RPMs and it really smooth coming down to 900 where she sits when warmed up. However when the RPMs get to 1100 she starts going on crazy, idling up and down, running really rough, sputtering, but it only does it for about a minute and then its almost like she catches her breath and is fine. Idles back down to 900 where she sits waiting on my next command.

Can anyone please help me with this? I do apologize for the long post but I have pretty much exhausted all the threads in here pertaining to my problem, short of putting in new cats, MAF, or O2 sensor.

TIA
JD
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,631 Posts
Have you cleaned your injectors lately? Maybe their clogged. In any case, I hear that a blinking CEL is bad. Have it checked out at the dealer. I think you're almost due for a new timing belt anyway. Some people have had belts skip or break after 60K and before the recommended change interval. While you're changing the belt, change your water pump too. But get that blinking CEL checked out by the dealer first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,132 Posts
Do a search on ICM (ignition control module or Power Module) and test it with a mulitmeter. If it tests good, go to a dealer for a new MAF under warranty after you change the vacuum hose to your diverter valve (recirculating valve).
 

·
Lisa Simpson
Joined
·
15,044 Posts
Firstly, do a poorman's throttle reset.

Open driver door, open hood. Turn key to on. Sit still and don't touch anything for two minutes. Start car and let idle hunt - the car will try to die, but will catch. Close hood and drive car around for 10 minutes.

Secondly, the flashing CEL is very bad. It indicates a serious error that the ECU cannot ignore. Check the connector to the MAFS and also the connectors to the throttle body. The MAFS should be cleaned with rubbing alcohol. TB cleaner is not the best thing, it does not evaporate as cleanly as rubbing alcohol does. This could be part of the problem.

Keep going on those hoses. Get that last one, but be careful - the little valve at the bottom is a bit brittle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,648 Posts
I would go right to the dealer ASAP since it is blinking. You already tried a bunch of things, including the cleaner, which is commendable, but time to head over to Service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well I did the "Poormans Throttle Reset" and it seemed to idle better when I came to a stop, and the CEL didn't blink when I started the car. I do appericate everyones help, though I jsut can't afford to take it in to the stealer, plus I would rather my 10 year old brother work on it before them. I am in the process of building a Vag-Com, I am just waiting on my parts to come in, I assume this will help in narrowing down the problem?

:b5:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
You indicated that you haven't changed the long vacuum hose in the front. If it has never been changed, then it is likely that is your problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
I've got this exact same problem.

So far I've changed:
- secondary air injection pump
- kombi valve
- front O2 sensor
- spark plugs
- vacuum hoses (@ DV, @ front of intake manifold)

I've done the Poor Man's Reset a few times. Resetting the computer makes the phenomenon worse.

Other observations:

-If car sits overnight, it'll start fine.
-If car is already warm, it'll start fine.
-If I shut the car off during its coughing fit and turn it back on, it runs fine.
-If the car starts fine and I drive away, it'll hesistate the next time I let off the throttle and throttle back up (i.e. to make a turn).

The rest of the time she runs great. What do you guys think? ECU (2000 has integrated ICM)? Coilpacks?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Well at least I am not the only one that this is happening to... Actually I replaced the last vac line today, the one that runs from the manifold to the bottom of the engine compartment (PITA). I hate those stupid clips that VW puts on the cars. I did the "Poorman Reset" and it actually started fine with the exception of it reseting itself... But it didn't cough like it smoke 3 packs a day. I guess I will see in the AM if it helped. I just can't wait for all my parts to come in for the VAG-Com I am attempting to build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
JDeer0618: are you chipped? I just got VAG-ed today and the new theory is that my chip may have a bad solder joint. It would help explain why the problem in my car is intermittent.

With the CEL on it felt like it was on soft limp mode; clearing the codes brought my boost back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Nah I was going to get it done but now that all this has come up I am a little weary about it. I may just fix it and get rid of the damn thing... Buy myself an 04 with a warranty :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Well, I cranked her up this morning and I am still getting the same thing - CEL blinks for about a minute or less and at 1100 RPMs its acts like its going to die for a little bit, once that is over she runs great. I am going to put C4 on the engine block and see how that helps! :mad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,132 Posts
ganseg said:
Do a search on ICM (ignition control module or Power Module) and test it with a mulitmeter. If it tests good, go to a dealer for a new MAF under warranty after you change the vacuum hose to your diverter valve (recirculating valve).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I have no idea where the DV is, can someone point me in the general directio? I looked for it yesterday but to no avail.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
If the check engine light is blinking it is damaging to your car. Using it means you have a misfire and it will destroy your cataylic converter if it doesnt get fixed. This is not something to mess around with. Take it to the dealer or risk high repair bills later
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
917 Posts
Pull the codes again. See what is there. There will be something because of the CEL.

Then report back. :)

FWIW here's what the Bentley says to check for P1128:

Check Fuel pressure regulator and residual pressure
Check oxygen sensor and oxygen sensor control before catalyst
Check injection valves - fuel injection quantity and proper seal
Check fuel pump
Check intake system for leaks
Check exhaust system for proper seal
Check Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system for proper seal

You've done some of those, but not the others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Ok found a thread on the ICM but the one in the pic is on top of the Air Box so i suppose that my is integrated with the ECU, is there a way to test that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
JDeer0618 said:
I have no idea where the DV is, can someone point me in the general direction? I looked for it yesterday but to no avail.
Pull off the belly pan under the engine. On the passenger side near the rear edge of the bumper cover you'll see a small black canister suspended with a couple big hoses on the side and bottom and a small hose on top. That's your DV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Oh the vacum hose that is attached to that is the one I changed yesterday. The line goes up into the botton of the intake manifold? I still don't understand why the car run perfect after it is warmed up and not at 1100 RPMs. I have no lose of acceleration, quite the opposite infact with new hoses. My RPMs do jump while at a red light anymore. It just dosen't add up IMO.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
About this Discussion
27 Replies
10 Participants
JDeer0618
Volkswagen Passat Forum
Passatworld is a forum dedicated to Volkswagen Passat enthusiasts to discuss mods, Quattro, Turbo Diesel, reviews and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top