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Discussion Starter #1
Tweekers and builders,

Im looking for a simple little piece of software that will generate a sweep and plot the response. I dont need the mesurment to absolute, include anything about impedence or anything else complex. I just need a simple graph so i can see where my speakers start to cut off. All a got is a line out and a mic input on my laptop (no line in).

suggestions very much appreciated. :beer:
 

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any of the IASCA test cds will have a pink noise track which is perfect for this. Next you'll need some software, like the LinearX RTA software and a mic this is where it's gonna get REAL expensive. Any local shop worth it's ass will have an RTA and mic (probably an Audio Control 3055A) you can use (or in the worst case, rent) and then all you need is a pink noise track. Play the pink noise track and you can view (and print if they have the printer upgrade and a printer) the 20Hz-20KHz real-time response of your system.




Paul :thumbup:
 

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ick... all i need is a real rough idea of where the speaks start to drop out, so i can set my amps high pass up right. is there any way to get this by ear or by a cheapo mic, i got software a plenty for generating pinknoise. and ive got some basic free 1 octive resolution rta, but im not seeing a real good trend.

Alternatively, does anyine happen to know the specs on the stock speakers (non-monsoon)?

The amp i have has a stero xover slope of 12db, and mono at 24. going to use two channels in the fron and bridge 2 in the back for the sub. I just want to figure out the best ballpark setting on this to get a relatively flat response cureve and keep the right sound going to the right drivers

thx
 

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Just do it by ear. Play something with some midbass and turn up the crossover point until you notice less bass. As long as it's a decent amp and it sums flat you don't have to worry about the stock speakers bottom end limit unless you plan on crossing them over REALLY low. I like to start at 70Hz and go from there. Just remember the higher the crossover point, the less you'll be able to turn the sub up since the extra midbass from the sub will make it's location a lot more localizable. After you get it in, try reversing the leads to the sub. You may get the system more in phase acoustically with the sub(s) wired backwards.


Paul :thumbup:
 
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