[danlman13]

This is my first real post but I have been reading on this site ever since I bought my car so I have researched most of this and it's been very helpful.

Bought my 2004 GLX AT two and a half years ago with 77k on it. Gave it the name Captain Von Trapp. Since then:
replaced transmission valve body and wiring ~$900
replaced broken oil pan and gasket $?
new left side catalytic converter ~$800
the dreaded heater mix door actuator. ~$1900
more oil leaks, replaced oil pan gasket again (somehow the new one was bad like 6 months later?)
At 100,000 miles, de-gunked EGR valve, "de-carbonized" engine, spark plugs and other minor things.

Now, I'm at 104k. despite the fact that this car has been a money hole so far, I do like it. It's got a nice interior and drives well. It's actually my wife's car and she likes it just fine. BUT

• check engine light, mechanic says it's the right side catalytic converter now
• consuming oil at a pretty alarming rate. Got an oil change and then 2 weeks later I've got about 1/4" of oil on the end of the dipstick. This has recently gotten much worse and I think I'm going to have to have them open up the engine and fix it. Also I suspect the combustion of oil is what ruined my catalytic converters
• ever since we have owned the car there is a hesitation to shift from first to second gear only the very first time after starting the car. after the first shift it's fine from then on. Other than that the trans is totally smooth and the problem is not getting any worse with time so I don't know if it's really a problem or not
• heat stopped working over the winter. I took it back to the mechanic that I paid $2k to fix the heat and he said the heater core was clogged with rust on the engine side and that whole water loop was rusty. Said they flushed it out but could not determine the source of the rust. The heat worked the rest of the winter but now I'm worried about what it could be that is rusting out in there.
• I hear a watery sound when accelerating. Like if you were running a hose and you go put your ear next to the spigot and just listen to the water rush by. No idea what this could be.
• The headlights are totally fogged. I'll probably get the depo kit that's recommended by users on this site and try to do the replacement myself. Not too big of a deal but another $200 to spend
• Suspension is pretty mushy. Not completely terrible but I'll have to do shocks and/or struts and/or springs as applicable

So I don't want to get rid of this car. I hate selling my car and I hate buying cars and I want to just keep this one but all of this evidence seems to be adding up to me spending a TON of money to keep it running for another 50k or so. But I would like to get some advice from the Passat pros here.
FYI I am an electical engineer I'm not great with mechanical things. I've done some minor car repairs on other cars but I don't see myself being able to do any of this myself other than the headlights.
Also if anyone can recommend a mechanic in the Chicago area that would be great. I have done all the previously mentioned work at two different places and I'm not that happy with either of them right now. There should be a sticky somewhere on this forum for recommended auto shops. I searched but did not find one.
Thanks folks

 

[ylwagon]

My general rule is to never give your car a name- keep it just being a machine and the relationship will be happier. That being said, the prices you list are pretty high. Why did it need a valve body and wiring? How did a heater flap actuator cost almost $2G? And cats can be installed for much less than $800. I spent around $200 for a California-complient aftermarket, and had a welder/fabricator install it for maybe $100 more.

Does this car ever run full-throttle/max RPM? Oil burners sometimes get that way from low-speed, low-temp operation. My 245K mile V6 hardly uses oil, but gets redlined at full throttle at least once daily.

Hesitation in your first shift is normal, and part of the shift program, to assist cat warm-up.

The water sound you hear is almost certainly air in the cooling system. The air needs to be let out at the bleeder fittings and heater hose.

 

[keithwbloom]

Tough call. Certainly sounds like a good deal of service is required to update/refresh your B5.5 so it can go another 100K miles, but a couple of the things you listed are givens at 100K, especially shocks/suspension. Springs are probably not played, just dampers, but likely your front control arms are in need of replacement if you haven't ever done so and they geometry is feeling loose.

Cannot really speak to auto transmission woes, I have a 5MT. Has the transmission been flushed recently, and is the fluid at the correct level? Could watery sound be related to transmission fluid level? I would suspect that a viscous coupling, underfilled, would make a similar sound to water wooshing, especially under acceleration.

Headlights fogged = 3M restoration and 2 hours of elbow grease. Best $30 you can spend on your exterior appearance if you are in need.

Find a part out V6 to get working right cat from for much less.

Potential heater core issues — make sure your coolant is clean, correct G12 (IIRC) and at the proper level. Wait and see on everything else.

If you refresh suspension (will save on tire wear in addition to adding confidence back to feel) and polish headlamps, I suspect the results will swoon you enough to work out the other two or three issues over time. If your car is sloppy feeling, even just a little, when you get it dialed in again, it feels like a brand new ride.

:wrench:

 

[Tomvw]

If you are going to keep it, you definitely need to get a decent mechanic or DIY.
You don't need to replce the headlights because of discoloration, get a 3M or similar kit and polish them, do it right and you will have better lights than cheap replacements.
I have never heard of an ATQ burning much oil, even at 3 or 4 times your mileage, they do leak if not properly serviced.
I expect the valve cover gaskets etc are leaking and the entire PCV system needs servicing.
If proper coolant has been maintained, there shouldn't be rust in the system. The system hasn't been properly bled, air in the system is causing the gurgling noise.

 

[Melchior]

My general rule is to never give your car a name- keep it just being a machine and the relationship will be happier. That being said, the prices you list are pretty high. Why did it need a valve body and wiring? How did a heater flap actuator cost almost $2G? And cats can be installed for much less than $800. I spent around $200 for a California-complient aftermarket, and had a welder/fabricator install it for maybe $100 more.

Does this car ever run full-throttle/max RPM? Oil burners sometimes get that way from low-speed, low-temp operation. My 245K mile V6 hardly uses oil, but gets redlined at full throttle at least once daily.

Hesitation in your first shift is normal, and part of the shift program, to assist cat warm-up.

The water sound you hear is almost certainly air in the cooling system. The air needs to be let out at the bleeder fittings and heater hose.

Is it a good idea to run the car at high speed for at least a few minutes every day? I was unaware of that. I have a 2001 V6 GLX with manual trans.

It seems to me this car is probably not worth keeping.

 

[danlman13]

Why did it need a valve body and wiring? How did a heater flap actuator cost almost $2G? And cats can be installed for much less than $800...

Does this car ever run full-throttle/max RPM? Oil burners sometimes get that way from low-speed, low-temp operation. My 245K mile V6 hardly uses oil, but gets redlined at full throttle at least once daily.

Regarding the valve body kit I don't exactly remember I think the shifting was clunky and I brought it in, the mechanic said something about the wiring being damaged and the solution was a new valve body kit. I still have all the receipts but not with me so I'm just going off of memory here and this was 2 years ago.
The mix door actuator doesn't cost $1900. That's the total cost to replace it and it's so high because 1. VW only sells the replacement parts as one GIANT package which includes the heater core, mix door and mix door actuator and all the plastic ducting to bring that air to your vents so you know that's not cheap. and 2. In order to get to the install this stuff they have to take out both front seats, the steering wheel and basically the entire dashboard so the labor cost is extraordinary. The manager of the repair shop spoke with me about it because he told me no one believes it costs that much, he showed me pictures of my car with the entire dash taken out it was pretty crazy. So yes, it does cost that much if you have a shop do it for you.
The car probably only gets run at high speed once every two weeks so yeah it's mostly a low-speed city car. I try to get it out and open her up when I can

 

[2002GLXV6]

I don't see any reason to let the car go from the list you have posted. Most of the items are pretty standard maintenance items, you've already done and sent the big money getting the car in shape so way let it go now? Let's say you do replace it with another used car, who's to say you will not spend an equal amount of money fixing issues with the the "new" car. And if you go out and buy a New New car, well there's 30 grand or more out the door. (ok, the cat may not be normal maintenance)

What you need is as you stated a good VW specialist in your area with reasonable prices. I'm sure "Steve In Chicago" will be along shortly and as the name implies he's in the Chicago area. He surely will know a few good people.

As already stated by others.

The oil use is more than likely valve cover gaskets leaking.

Headlights , Easy diy with 3m restoration kit.

Sound of water moving. The guy who serviced the system did not bleed the air out of the system properly. The V6 is known to be a pain to bleed the air out of the cooling system.

Heat, have the heater core Back Flushed and the cooling system flushed, then re-fill with G-13 VW coolant.

Now, just a couple of things to think about.
I didn't see you mention a timing belt service being done? If this hasn't been done it's due soon! and that is a chunk of change $.
Also, you may want to consider having the outer CV boots replaced at some point, before they split open.

 

[Tomvw]

If the TB hasn't been changed, at 104k it is a long way overdue and should be replaced immediately.

 

[danlman13]

Thanks for the tips. I think I'm just gonna put in the money and keep driving it. Hopefully it runs well for another couple of years.
Bought the 3m headlight restoration kit today
Will have the oil leak diagnosed and fixed
Will look into the timing belt and cv boots
Stall as long as I can on the other catalytic and suspension