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Service position Vs Removing it all for a timing belt change... and some other questions....(first timing belt)

2K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  Wahobbert 
#1 ·
Hello there.
found the INA kit I'm going to use.

1. Just wondering if I should remove everything from the front of the car and how to do it rather than just doing service position?
2. What is everyone's GO TO water pump to replace the one that is in there.
3. How much G12 coolant will I need to put back into the car after the process?
4. Will I need to remove and replace the stud on the tensioner or just use the existing one? (and how so without a special tool?)

Thanks
-R
 
#2 ·
1) I removed everything when I did my first timing belt. It's a confidence booster to have it all in front of you but it's not necessary and removing/reconnecting the radiator hoses can be a real PITA. The AC condenser can just be put aside so no need to drain the refrigerant. Honestly, unless you have a bunch of extra time and energy, I'd just go with service position. Watch a few videos first to see what's involved if you're still unsure. This one is pretty good:

2) Any decent brand is probably OK. Metal impellers seem to be favored by some but IIRC, water pumps from the VW dealer use a plastic impeller.

3) I'd guess 1 gallon of concentrate if you can still find it or 2 gallons of diluted will be more than enough.

4) Unless it's damaged just re-use it.
 
#3 ·
Only once did I try to work on the front of the engine without pulling the whole front end off.
Never again. Full service position ever since. Yeah it's a few more screws / bolts to remove but being able to sit on a stool the whole time is way better than being stooped over the grill with your arms sandwiched between the front of the engine and radiator.
 
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#9 ·
I never pulled the front off for just a timing belt and I've done bunches of them. I don't wan to take the risk of removing anything that can cause a leak later (coolant hoses). The trans cooler lines alone will drive you crazy when you try to put them back in. I just put the cars on jack stands so I don't have to bend over so much. Then I can sit on the rolling seat to remove all of the fender liner and bumper parts, and then stand nearly straight up to work on the motor (I have long arms).
 
#10 ·
If you want to refresh your car for the next few years, minimizing the need to pull of the front again for a long time (assuming all these parts are ancient):
1. Replace AC compressor with dryer and orifice tube. Clean the condenser.
2. Replace oil cooler gasket, and possibly hoses,
3. Replace snub mount,
4. Replace radiator hoses
5. Inspect SAIP hoses and all vacuum lines for crispiness and replace as needed.
6. Check headlights and harnesses
while you’re there. I think that’s everything.
 
#12 ·
The thing about service position-vs-full removal is the absolute necessity to use an air/cordless power ratchet to be able to reach a lot of stuff at all efficiently and mirrors to see what you're doing if you only go only service position. The radiator hoses almost always refuse to unhook and the transmission lines don't need to be disconnected then. I just do ratchets and mirrors.
 
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