And one question, can it be connected somehow to increased fuel consumption?
Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow
Hello Forum
Car 2001 Passat, GLS, 1.8T.
So today I was driving and suddenly Check Engine light came on. I brought car to nearest Autozone store and got it tested, Computer returned code: P0411 (Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow. Explanation: Faulty Air Combination Valve, Probable Cause: Faulty Air Solenoid Valve, Faulty Air Pump Motor)
I looked into the tank where hot water is located and it is very dirty inside, seems as if stain on the bottom of the tank and water is slightly below minimum. Can it be the problem? Or connected to the problem?
Is there any solution whether I can clean and adjust hoses and things related to this problem so I will see if really Air Pump motor is dead or it is just dirt problem. Can it be Air filter?
how it is felt while driving? On rise when I drive it doesn't react as it should be when I press gas pedal seems like very loaded car, and it is Turbo it should drive crazy.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Car 2001 Passat, GLS, 1.8T.
So today I was driving and suddenly Check Engine light came on. I brought car to nearest Autozone store and got it tested, Computer returned code: P0411 (Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow. Explanation: Faulty Air Combination Valve, Probable Cause: Faulty Air Solenoid Valve, Faulty Air Pump Motor)
I looked into the tank where hot water is located and it is very dirty inside, seems as if stain on the bottom of the tank and water is slightly below minimum. Can it be the problem? Or connected to the problem?
Is there any solution whether I can clean and adjust hoses and things related to this problem so I will see if really Air Pump motor is dead or it is just dirt problem. Can it be Air filter?
how it is felt while driving? On rise when I drive it doesn't react as it should be when I press gas pedal seems like very loaded car, and it is Turbo it should drive crazy.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Not related to your dirty coolant, and not related to increased fuel consumption. The SAI system operated for about two minutes at cold start, primarily to reduce emissions. It does nothing beyond that. You could indeed have a bad pump, or a bad combo valve; but more likely it's a cracked or disconnected hose. Find the SAI pump underneath the airbox on the passenger side, and carefully examine the corrugated hoses leading in and out of it. The have a tendency to crack between the corrugations in a way that's not easy to see.
If they're OK, you'll move on to making sure the pump runs. On a COLD start only, it should (if you're close enough) audibly run for a bit - sounds like a hair dryer.
If they're OK, you'll move on to making sure the pump runs. On a COLD start only, it should (if you're close enough) audibly run for a bit - sounds like a hair dryer.
People write on this forum that if it is Air pump motor you can hear voice, I don't hear any particular noise only thing is when I turn wheel RPM arrow starts to shake little, also on cold start sometimes RPM arrow shakes too, I believe it happens when there is some problem with air flow.
Also one thing, few months ago EPC light came on, I checked it and it returned Vacuum problem, but after checking EPC light went off and didn't come on again.It can be related?
OK tomorrow I will focus on what noise it makes
Thanks Scott
Also one thing, few months ago EPC light came on, I checked it and it returned Vacuum problem, but after checking EPC light went off and didn't come on again.It can be related?
OK tomorrow I will focus on what noise it makes
Thanks Scott
Oh So when I hear very noticeable noise on Toyota Land Cruiser when someone starts engine it sounds like Boyng 737 take off so same noise but not like Toyota land cruiser should be heard? Is this correct? I will ask someone to start my car and I will focus to hear air flow noise.
So if no noise than Air pump motor is dead?
What about air solenoid valve? What is this and where can I check it?
Also what about fuses? fuse must be also checked right?
So if no noise than Air pump motor is dead?
What about air solenoid valve? What is this and where can I check it?
Also what about fuses? fuse must be also checked right?
It could also be the vacuum lines. If they are still braided cloth, it may be time to change them.
If there is no noise, it could be the electrical fuse or relay (in with the ECU under the windshield). Combi-valves typically do not go bad, it is usually the vacuum lines that leak and cause them not to open. Also, a malfunctioning PCV system can prevent the SAIP system from working properly by vacuum leak.
If there is no noise, it could be the electrical fuse or relay (in with the ECU under the windshield). Combi-valves typically do not go bad, it is usually the vacuum lines that leak and cause them not to open. Also, a malfunctioning PCV system can prevent the SAIP system from working properly by vacuum leak.
x2 on what Scott said. Additionally:
You can search the forum for "P0411" (the fault code) and "SAIP" to read more about this issue--you'll get lots of hits.
Two other common causes of this code, both of which I've experienced:
You don't say if your Passat is an 01 (B5) or 01.5 (B5.5, "New Passat") like mine, but the engines are basically the same vis-a-vis vacuum hoses.
You can search the forum for "P0411" (the fault code) and "SAIP" to read more about this issue--you'll get lots of hits.
Two other common causes of this code, both of which I've experienced:
- The relay that switches power to the SAIP, relay 373, is sort of undersized. If yours is original, it probably needs replaced. It's located in the ECM box.
- Several of the vacuum hoses in your engine tend to get very hard with age. One of those operates the combi valve, and if the combi valve doesn't operate you'll get P0411. See my DIY in the info base: http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/337838-diy-how-replace-1-8t-awm-vacuum-hoses.html
You don't say if your Passat is an 01 (B5) or 01.5 (B5.5, "New Passat") like mine, but the engines are basically the same vis-a-vis vacuum hoses.
Thanks Fresco
Thanks Frescox2 on what Scott said. Additionally:
You can search the forum for "P0411" (the fault code) and "SAIP" to read more about this issue--you'll get lots of hits.
Two other common causes of this code, both of which I've experienced:
- The relay that switches power to the SAIP, relay 373, is sort of undersized. If yours is original, it probably needs replaced. It's located in the ECM box.
- Several of the vacuum hoses in your engine tend to get very hard with age. One of those operates the combi valve, and if the combi valve doesn't operate you'll get P0411. See my DIY in the info base: http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/337838-diy-how-replace-1-8t-awm-vacuum-hoses.html
You don't say if your Passat is an 01 (B5) or 01.5 (B5.5, "New Passat") like mine, but the engines are basically the same vis-a-vis vacuum hoses.
I will check relay 373 tomorrow, and how can I diagnosis if it is the reason or not? Is there any measurement tool? And I am doing it first time, ECM box is under the wheel in front of driver seat?
My passat is 2001 edition, gls 1.8t
On my 2004, the pump is barely audible from inside the car. When it's running, there's a very slight additional vibration in the idle while it's running. The ECM box (which contains the relay) is under the hood in front of the driver; I wouldn't describe the location as "under the wheel." It's to the right of the brake fluid reservoir. The relay more often causes the pump to run continuously than fail to run. If the pump isn't running you can try replacing the really, or (less expensively) climb under and run 12V directly to the pump.
If not, then the pump may have failed. If the pump is dead, it may be because of a failed combo valve, but let's leave that until you test the pump.
If not, then the pump may have failed. If the pump is dead, it may be because of a failed combo valve, but let's leave that until you test the pump.
Oh - There are two 2001 models; the first half of the year it was a B5, the latter half, a B5.5. There's a thread here on telling them apart, but very briefly, the later more;l has chrome strips around the windows and in the side rub strips.
thanks
So how to run pump on 12v, just connect battery to the pump wires or stick wire heads into where relay is located
So how to run pump on 12v, just connect battery to the pump wires or stick wire heads into where relay is located
I wouldn't go feeding power into the relay socket - too easy to get the wrong pins. I'd get some wire and connect the pump direct to the battery, bypassing the cars wiring.
Pump +/- pins mustn't be identified or it is indicated on?
Also in fuse box, which fuse and relay should I test?
I read here that it is relay 373, but it is actually relay responsible for ABS system, any ideas?
I read here that it is relay 373, but it is actually relay responsible for ABS system, any ideas?
There's only one relay in the ECU box, the one for the SAIP.
What if I don't fix the problem, what can it damage, as it is for emissions? I cannot replace motor until I make some money with my car.
If the SAIP is not working, it will not damage anything, it only runs for about 90 seconds at a cold start of the car. It is there to aid in heating up the cat faster from cold.What if I don't fix the problem, what can it damage, as it is for emissions? I cannot replace motor until I make some money with my car.
OK, so here is the thing, went to autozone again, double check is key, again that code. So problem is really secondary air. On cold start I listened to engine I don't hear any voice. When engine goes off right after start, no swirling noise whatsoever, I checked hoses, they look like someone replaced recently. I mean hoses are not bad, they look new and they are not hard rock, they are elastic enough. I think old owner replaced them otherwise car with 178 000 millage cannot have such hoses. I think this is either pump motor or fuse issue. I got to walmart now and will get multimeter, so I will check fuses.
Be cautious when powering the SAIP--it pulls a lot of current, 20 to 30 amps, and more if it's bound up and can't turn. And you'll get quite a spark when you disconnect power.
The SAIP fuse is 40 amps, located in the ECM box beside the 373 relay. The fuse and relay contacts are the only things between the battery and the SAIP. The ECM box is under the driver (left) wiper shaft. Park the wipers up and remove the black plastic plug beside the wiper shaft for access to one of the five bolts that holds the ECM box closed. If you open the ECM box, one way to test is to pry the relay cover off, then manually press the contacts closed with a tool.
If you have ramps, it's arguably easier to apply power directly to the SAIP connector, but again use caution. You'll want some kind of fuse between the battery and the SAIP. The brown wire is minus.
The SAIP fuse is 40 amps, located in the ECM box beside the 373 relay. The fuse and relay contacts are the only things between the battery and the SAIP. The ECM box is under the driver (left) wiper shaft. Park the wipers up and remove the black plastic plug beside the wiper shaft for access to one of the five bolts that holds the ECM box closed. If you open the ECM box, one way to test is to pry the relay cover off, then manually press the contacts closed with a tool.
If you have ramps, it's arguably easier to apply power directly to the SAIP connector, but again use caution. You'll want some kind of fuse between the battery and the SAIP. The brown wire is minus.
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
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