SAIP Replacement/ Modification Plan

1391 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by dalto12593, Dec 23, 2009

KDXClark

Discussion Starter · Dec 22, 2009

I have an idea and feedback is welcome. About 50k miles ago, I broke the plastic pipe that went from the pump to the exhaust and replaced it with a length of 3/4" heater hose. Things were working fine until the jet engine noise started. Lived with that for a while and finally the SAIP went out on my 03 V6 this summer - victim of moisture from stuck combi valves.

Currently, I have pulled both hoses, the pump and have blocked off the airbox opening and the excaust pipe that runs from the back of the engine to the front.

I'm planning to order a used SAIP replacement pump for about $50. Instead of pulling air from inside the airbox, I was thinking I would hook it up with one of the old style valve cover air filters. It will keep the big chunks out of the pump but let me get creative with this system w/o worrying about dirt getting into the engine.

On the outlet side, I found a 3/4" one way check valve intended for boat bilge pumps. I was thinking it could be mounted in outlet line and prevent flow from the exhasut back to the pump w/o having to replace the combis.

In addition, since it is no longer hooked to my clean air intake, I can drill a small weep hole in the bottom of the fan portion of the pump to let any moisture that does get into it drain out rather than building up until it rusts out the pump motor.

Anyway, I figured this was the cheapest way to solve the issue and hopefully prevent it from happening again. Spending $400 or more on parts that will probably just fail again in short order does not seem like a good idea to me.

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zak99B5

· #2 · Dec 22, 2009

Sounds like a good plan. I have one of those breather filters on my SAI intake on the AWP GTi since it has a cone filter in a heat shield.

The check valve idea is great--we switched my neighbor's SAI pump twice before we realized where all the water was coming from (of course now that we have a new kombi valve and pump, he still gets the "incorrect flow" CEL, and we just can't figure out why).

I'd place the check valve as close to the kombi as possible.

Not so sure about a weep hole in the pump itself--I wouldn't feel confident that I was drilling in the right spot, and any hole big enough to drain water effectively would also lower the air flow to the kombi valve (assuming you are like me and need it functioning for state inspection). Plus with the check valve, you shouldn't need it.

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dalto12593

· #3 · Dec 22, 2009

Maybe a stupid question, but the isn't the SAIP supposed to sound loud, like a jet?

If its not then... FUU

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gloveofpower

· #4 · Dec 22, 2009

I'm interested in your idea of putting in a large check valve right near the combi to protect the SAIP. Can you post a link to the check valve you are thinking about, or a model name/number so I can check it out. I may do the same thing too...

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KDXClark

Discussion Starter · #5 · Dec 23, 2009

dalto12593 said:
Maybe a stupid question, but the isn't the SAIP supposed to sound loud, like a jet?

If its not then... FUU

No. When new, they sound more like a dust buster and you probably won't really notice them over the sound of a high idle engine. When they are worn out, they sound like you are 3 feet from the engines on a 747 and your neihbors will look at you as you back out of the garage

gloveofpower said:
I'm interested in your idea of putting in a large check valve right near the combi to protect the SAIP. Can you post a link to the check valve you are thinking about, or a model name/number so I can check it out. I may do the same thing too...

I found several for boats, aquariums, etc - google 3/4 inch check valve. I was thinking of putting it right into the section of heater hose that replaced the hard plastic pipe that leaves the air pump. What I have in mind is a cheap plastic valve that doesn't provide much airflow resistance when open so it will need to be pretty far from the exhaust.

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zak99B5

· #6 · Dec 23, 2009

The reason I said to put the check valve as close to the kombi as possible is that if it sticks open, you don't get a lot of water running down the tube, which would then drip into the pump when it's delivering air. The closer to the kombi, the less water than can accumulate.

Or reroute it so that the valve is at the highest point in the run so any water goes to the exhaust.

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dalto12593

· #7 · Dec 23, 2009

Oh, well mine is fine then.

If I'm in my car on a cold start, i really have to listen/open a window to hear it.

But it does sound like a dust buster, nothing obnoxiously loud.

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