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If you live where they put salt on roads be very careful with these. Stuck hard, maybe a day with penetrating oil will free up. I tend to be very careful with stuck bolts but after picking rust out and blowing out and tapping in 6MM it’s a little loose fit. Scary View attachment 98721
Yes, take it very slowly and carefully with those.
Johnny Cash at a high volume may aid in breaking them loose.
 

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04 2.8 4motion wagon
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Discussion Starter #62
Got em. Can’t go any further till Cam and crank lock comes in. If anyone has recommendation for best replacement for that rusted out pipe please let me know I will order it. I don’t see as that front motor damper thing does much. All kinds of free space where it goes in but kit came with it so I will stick on there. Thanks
98723
 

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I've got a set of the pipes in good shape. I have to find them, but I should be in the garage this weekend pulling the rear twist beam from the donor.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Isn’t it just that one pipe. Looks like it goes behind oil filter
 

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It leads to a rubber hose that connects to the oil cooler. I've got a full set, maybe with some hoses still attached. I'll know after Sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Thanks PZ. Assume this would be the time to replace while front end off. Looked around online and couldn’t find that same steel pipe. Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
Assume dealer item, can’t find that steel line anywhere. Will wait to hear back from PZ. Luckily as I said before this car can sit on left for a while, have other wheels. Others have been suggesting to replace oil cooler gasket while there. Read somewhere that it can be done without removing coolant lines by removing nut under filter and it will slide out enough to unthread pipe and install gasket. Gonna give it a try.
 

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I like how far you’ve come from being hesitant on your first post to full tear down.

Hope you’re going with good replacement parts - this isn’t the job to cheap out on (unless you just like seeing how much better you can do it the second time around.)
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Funny. No second time. Just waiting for cam and crank lock. And the pipe going to oil cooler rusted out, PZ thinks he has one. So on hold till next week. Got top kit from Blauparts, they seen to be well rated. Seems to include all the moving parts including water pump and antifreeze. Maybe running next weekend, if it don’t blow up or I don’t fill full of holes with AR. Thanks.
 

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Another guy on this forum says don’t need to break cam pulleys free when installing belt but I like the idea of getting teeth on belt sitting in perfect with no slack so I will break them free.
I don't doubt that the vast majority of old 2.8 motors never have the sprockets loosened for timing belt replacements. The downside of that is the potential of having the timing incorrect enough to affect idle and performance. Keep in mind that is a very long belt, so variations between old and new belts, or different brands, are possible.

I don’t see as that front motor damper thing does much. All kinds of free space where it goes in but kit came with it so I will stick on there.
That 'damper' is more to limit engine vertical movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Well hopefully the kit I got has correct belt. Will find out next week. And I like the idea of breaking pulleys free, that way I know for sure cams are exactly in time with crank. Would like to have a talk with engineer that invented interference motor that depends on a piece of rubber to keep from blowing up. Maybe design an extra 1/8” clearance, Thanks
 

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...... Would like to have a talk with engineer that invented interference motor that depends on a piece of rubber to keep from blowing up. Maybe design an extra 1/8” clearance, Thanks
What, and give up that feeling of dread and trepidation when you first turn the key after completing your first timing belt change ? Where is the fun in that ?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Well like my poor old Jetta that I just got rid of, did timing belt one time 4 years ago and it held up. Never kept track of mileage. Will be same with this rig, most likely body will be rotted out before it will need another belt.
 

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This is getting a bit geeky, but a timing belt beats a timing chain in every category, except maximum lifespan. And, it’s not the rubber that does the work, it’s the fibers inside: they don’t stretch. Breakage happens when the teeth wear down far enough that the sprockets start to dig into the fiber.

I guarantee you every Mercedes engineer wishes they had gone with belts on their 272/273 engines. They had a massive failure from chain idler sprockets wearing away that essentially ruined a few model years 2006-2008.

Anyway, every car seems to have its particular grumble points.
 

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Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
I understand how they work, my only point was making room for valves and pistons to clear each other regardless of orientation in case belt or chain is compromised. But it must be getting max compression ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I can’t even see crank lock let alone work on it. Shouldn’t I be OK as long as I make sure timing TDC mark on pulley is in correct spot after belt is on?
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Think thats it, think I will go to plan B
98731
 

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From Blauparts how-to:

How To Step 11

The crankshaft locking plug can be a plastic cap or a metal threaded Allen plug. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, remove the crankshaft locking plug cap. This plug is located under the driver side engine motor mount bracket. To access this plug, you will need to bend the motor mount harness bracket off to the side.

When you remove the plug, be careful to not lose it's companion o-ring seal. If you are assured that the engine timing marks are aligned, thread crankshaft locking pin tool 3242 in place and lightly tighten with a 10mm wrench. With a 12 point 24mm socket wrench, double check that the crankshaft will not move by lightly trying to turn the crankshaft.

Please Note: Be sure to complete this step and install crankshaft locking pin tool 3242 before you take anything more apart. This tool helps to achieve 100% proper engine timing. You do not want the crankshaft to move. Although inserting this tool at this point may seem like more work, it's really less work in the long run.
98732


To find mine, I took that harness/bracket off completely. My plug looked nothing like what is shown. I believe it was a bolt threaded directly into the block where that "cup" is shown.
98733

98734

Blauparts updated their how-to section and the link for this procedure is now How to Replace VW Passat Timing Belt on 2.8L 30V
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Been following that exact link. May skip that step, allen head in bad shape. I will make sure cams and crank are in place. Would definitely notice if off one tooth on belt. Before I tighten cam pulleys back up I will place cam lock on and slide front crank pulley back on and double check (since its keyed to only go one way)
 

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I've got another pipe that looks like it goes from the end of this pipe and up to the reservoir. Do you need that too? PM sent, call me.
 
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