The more I read up on it the worse it looks. Don’t really want to purchase rig to hold cams in position, one guy said he made one but not sure how that would work out. Would need to find someone to do reasonable due to what car is worth. On the other hand if it breaks the car goes on the burn pile. Thank you for the confidence. Take care.
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Thanks VAGguy, will check that out. The guy that had it before me said it was done when he bought, unknown mileage. So I went to used car dealership that sold it to him and asked them, he didn’t have any records ( was many years ago) but did say they wouldn’t touch a 2.8 vw timing belt so still don’t know when changed. I know physical condition looking at it doesn’t tell me much but its in very good condition.
Hirnbeiss, thanks for that link, that’s the best step by step procedure I have seen. Sounds like you have done this before, have one question about one of the steps. I was thinking that the tool that locks the cams together went on and stayed there once crank is locked on correct rotation but now it looks like it’s purpose is to hold them just in order to loosen pulleys because then it’s removed so I assume due to tension on valves that they could move a little, so do I use that tool after when keyed washer is put back on to make sure they are in correct position? Due to the fact that pulleys can go on in any position. That step is a little confusing but I assume it’s done to make sure belt is in place between cams with no play. Thank you.
VAGguy, I like that tool rental idea because I’m sure these chain parts stores around won’t have them. Thanks for that. I’m trying to convince myself to dive in to it, you would think since I’m retired, have heated garage with lift, and other cars to drive that I would quit procrastinating and give it a try. Mostly worried about badly rusted ( corroded ) fasteners.
Hirnbeiss, I read procedure again. Does look like tool for cams is to hold while loosening bolts after crank locked in place then just make sure cams are back in alignment before tightening pulleys in place. Like everyone has said, most of time is getting things out of the way.
It was me who gave the Blauparts link. I used that procedure when I did my first (and only) timing belt.Yes, the cam tool is used only to ensure camshaft timing. As the crank won't rotate, and the cam pulleys aren't keyed, as long as the diamond washers are installed per instructions, the cam timing will be correct.
The way these VWs leak oil, there should be no rusted fasteners to slow you down.
I can ask my bud in Texas if he sill has my cam lock tool to mail it to you, if he still has it. I know he lost the crank lock pin, but they are usually fairly cheap on eBay. I’ll let you know.
The cam pulleys are basically a tapered fit on the camshafts, so the locking bar holds the shafts while you pop the pulleys and set the belt at TDC. 9 times out of 10 the shafts wouldn’t move, but no one wants to tempt fate and be the 1 of 10.
OK thanks. Was thinking of making one. They really don’t want people to go after crank seal, I guess it’s easy to f-up key way or pulley. Did you do crank and cam seals? I see they use a tool, guide pin (bolt) when doing bumper. Is that just to slide out a little to get out of the way or take completely off, they don’t really get in to that part much.
I left the crank seal alone-it wasn't leaking so I didn't want to mess with it. I did have to replace the plastic timing alignment cover - it was broken.To free the cam pulleys, I just gave the cam a tap or 2 with a ball pein and they released. I did the cam seals with this tool :
..no way was I paying $100+/- for the VAG tool. To install the new seals, I found that a shop-vac extension tube was the correct ID to push them into place.
For the service position guide pins, I just bought some long bolts; I forget what thread pitch and length. I don't remember, but I think I ended up swinging it completely out of the way and supported the driver's side on a bucket or something.
Might get one of those tools, could probably chisel a hole in face of seal and dig it out. Could do same with bumper, pull one bolt and go down to Fastenall and get longest bolts they have with that thread. The kit from Blauparts that has parts I need also comes with three seals. Headed now to get inspection since I fixed the ABS light issue. Thanks for info
I've never had to replace a front or rear crank seal on either 1.8T or a V6. I did a preventive replacement on his torque converter (off my car with 50K on it) at just over 150K and the TC seal on the front of the trans. Still good at over 250K now.
PZ, Im not sure what’s involved with TC and TC seal but don’t believe I will be in the neighborhood if I decide to do timing belt, TC must be on the other end. Should I do front cam seals that come in kit?
No it's not in the area, just that I have not had a V6 front seal leak with well over 250K. I have heard of several rear main leaks, but we have been lucky. If you are over 200K, it would not hurt to replace the front crank seal as the timing belt will be off. Cam seals are also a good idea as it's far easier to change them when the timing belt is off.