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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got the car back together after a timing belt change and IGM replacement. :) for the ECS Ultimate Kit. Had the battery disconnected and reconnected it and turned the motor over with the IGM unplugged just to make sure everything was cool (had already turned the crankshaft to make sure no interference). Then plugged in the IGM and started her up. CEL and the car started and died. Started it again and gave it a little gas.... sounded great but then when I let off the gas it died. Third time it started up and would run, but it drops down to 500-600 rpm and nearly dies... then it'll jump up to 8-900... then back to 600, where it bogs down badly. I'm hoping that this is nothing major since I've been without my car for a week (had to order parts) and want it back!

I have not tried the hood+door and key trick. I'll try that first thing tomorrow, but after reading a lot here (searched through 20 pages of searched topics) I'm thinking I need a throttle body adaption maybe? If I do the hood+door+key trick will the CEL light go off? Is it something completely different?

Like I said.... I searched a lot and I'm guessing I need the Throttle Body Adaption, but the CEL light worries me. Is it safe to drive the 10 miles to the dealership?

Thanks,

-Hex..
 

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I'm guessing a TB adapt also. Especially since you said the battery was disconnected. :) Try to find a VW indy shop in your area, they may give you a better deal on the TB adapt than the dealer will. Keep in mind, for $200 + a PC you can do this yourself with VAG-COM. :)

-Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've thought getting my own VAG-COM.... but I don't think I'd use it enough to justify the cost (I'm assuming the TB adapt will be pretty cheap... takes basically no time doesn't it?) Also, since you mentioned it, are the cheap ($80) VAG-COMs able to do this?

And is the CEL related to this and will it go away with the TB adapt?

Thanks... I love this site!

-Hex..
 

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if u only disconnect the negative terminal, and leave the positive in place, u wont hafta do a TB adapt upon reconnecting. worked for me, maybe it'll help ya out next time.

chances are the CEL is because of the TB adapt. If so they'll clear the code when the do the adapt and it wont pop up again. that is unless its because u messed up your timing, and if that was the case you would notice.
-drew
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bah..... took it to the dealership and it was gonna be $140 just to clear the CEL and do TB adaptation..... well, since I really wanted to be done with this I gave them the key. 10 minutes later they come back with the car and say that since I have an aftermarket head unit they couldn't get a signal. They said that the K line could have been shorted or since the new stereo harness was spliced in it might not be able to connect to the VAG-COM. They said I need to get a new VW harness and then put the original radio back in. :(

I'm really not sure what, if any of that, is BS..... but on a good note, the CEL light is off and the car runs great except that if I quickly let off the gas the car will drop down to 500 rpm or so before jumping right back up. It hasn't stalled, but seems dangerously close when it gets that low. All in all it's very drivable and I don't think I have much risk of damaging it till I can figure out a way to do a TB adapt.

Any feedback on the whole k-line/radio thing?

-Hex..
 

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sounds like bs to me, might be good to try and find somebody with a VAG-COM in your area who'll try the tb adapt for ya. did you splice anything to install the head unit, or did you just buy one of the adapter cables a company like crutchfield sells?
 

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On my 98 Passat a Vag-com or OBD II will not read the car when my aftermarket CD head unit installed. Simply reinstall your stock radio and you should be fine that is if you still have it.

Here is a little info for you and it might help you out. I cleaned my TB and reinstalled it w/out an adapt and it ran fine, when my friend came over 20mins later we connected the Vag and adapted the TB and all was fine. Two days ago I replaced some leaking vacuum lines and figured I'd test drive to see the difference. When I first started the car it ran like crap (idle drops down and jumps back up) I shut the car off and opened the hood, drivers door and turn the key to the on position and waited 1 min. then started the car. It ran better but still crappy, I drove around the block came home and did the hood, door, key trick again and it ran even better. I went for another test drive and really got on it a couple of times, then pulled over quick did the hood, door, key trick a third time and drove home with a great running car. I've had no problems yet, but will Vag adapt the car agian this weekend.

Good luck
 

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My wifes car (1.8T) did this when I had misfire trouble and a cracked turbo. After 3 months of waiting for parts and installing, I finally got it to start. The battery must have went dead cause I had to input the code for the head unit. I'd go and charge it every month with my car. I cleaned the throttle body, and changed the fuel filter, and that's what fixed the idle.

I'd recommend cleaning the TB and/or changing the fuel filter. See if that helps any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the replies guys.... I recently changed the fuel filter, so that is probably unlikely.... but I do think I would like to clean the TB since it seems easy. I also will try the multiple hood+door+key trick...

thanks again!

-Hex..
 
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