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Will it increase bhp? Don't know, but it is a great oil.

I think that it would be hard to prove that any oil increases power. Less drag on an engine will increase power, so in theory, a lighter weight oil will help with power, but it won't be as viscous as the thicker ones.

I've contemplated switching to a 5w30 or 10w30, but decided that the 0w40 Mobil 1 is the best way to go.
 

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I think I read a test in Hot Rod magazine a few years ago wear they tested Royal Purple to see if there was any noticable gain in power. I think it was only worth a couple horsepower though, nothing your gonna notice by the seat of your pants. Besides, I think your gonna see the same gain from any synthetic oil. I use they're maxgear oil in my tranny, and I must say, its not as good as I thought it would be. I've noticed the tranny is even more resistant to go into gear on a cold morning than it was with the factory stuff. the general consenses here, I think, is that the factory gear oil is still the best. I think the only way your gonna see significant gains in any car with synthetic oil is if you put synthetic oil in everything ( eng., trans., rears, etc...). But since our cars already come with synthetic oils from the factory, your prolly not gonna see that much difference.
 

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I use Royal Purple.
Does it produce any noticable HP gains?... No.
Does it absolutely quieten all engine noise?... Yes.

It is a very good synthetic oil. I'd recommend it. I'm also a big fan of Redline oil, but my preference is Royal Purple. Try it out on your next oil change, and decide for yourself... drive for about 20 minutes and notice the engine go completely quiet. It's eery.

I also put Royal Purple gear oil in my 5-speed tranny. No more tranny noise...

Jimmy :)
 

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These "boutique" oils are questionable at best :nervous:

Why even use them when there are many other PROVEN oils on the market.
Go for an API, ACEA certified oil--not just one that says it SHOULD meet the requirements of abc spec :shock:
 

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Well Jimmy for the anal retentive types (usually not me), they typically like the extra protection. The early 1.8T were prone to coking of the turbo which would be elieviated by a synthetic oil so the extra protection is well noted--a dino oil might not protect as well 8)
 

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SilverFlash said:
These "boutique" oils are questionable at best :nervous:

Why even use them when there are many other PROVEN oils on the market.
Go for an API, ACEA certified oil--not just one that says it SHOULD meet the requirements of abc spec :shock:
I've got a quart of Royal Purple 5W30 in front of me, and it says right on the bottle:
Royal Purple exceeds API, SL, ILSAC, GM4718M, and GF-3 warranty requirements... unfortunately it doesn't mention anything about VW.

Jimmy :)
 

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And there are VW spec'd oils, particularly dino oils, and oils put in by the dealers and a few others, that have resulted in coked up turbos and sludged 1.8T engines, even with regular changes. The 1.8T turbo simply cokes these for breakfast. It's plain chemistry with the organic molecules in the dinos. In fact, the coking and sludging problem is so significant that some oils would coke up in this engine even if you changed them every 2000 miles! The problem is in oil sitting in a hot turbo body after it's shut down. Many dino oils begin to break down with that heat and the next time you start the engine those coked particles drop into the pan and get sucked up into the oil intake screen on the pump.

Redline, Motul, PentoSynth, Amzoil and Royal Purple (boutique's I suppose) in the proper grades are generally going to exceed the performance of most off the shelf oils, sometimes spectacularly. Try running Pennzoil for 8k OCI's x 100k miles in your 1.8T. In fact, put in Pennzoil every 3k and one of the above every 8k and open the engine after 100k. I'll buy the 100k car from the motul guy over the Pennz at 3k intervals any day. Some Europeans are doing 15-18k OCI's with Motul and PentoSynth in these engines.
 

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Saw a MuscleCar show on Speed yesterday, they ran a Z28 before/after on the chassis dyno. They changed Engine, Trans, Diff, to Royal Purple.

Before - 302HP

After - 308HP

(IIRC! At least it was something like that...)

I also remember HotRod Mag in about '83. A Thunderbird Turbo Coupe (2.3L SOHC Turbo), Mobil 1, same sorta test. +8 HP.

Of course most all oils have more friction reduction additives since '83. But a good Syth is more oil per Qt. Less additives are needed....that and the designed molecular structure can do a lot for friction, at the same time lowering temps. All well proven by many tests over the years.
 

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Ask any of the boutique oil vendors for their engine sequence data. They don't have any.

While the base formulations of these oils are very good, they are rarely tested under the engine sequences as that testing is very expensive (buy a motor, run the crap out of it, tear it down for measuring, toss it) and apparently our friends at these shops don't care to spend the money. If I get one more 4ball result from these guys, I think I will self-combust. They don't even run HFRR, the current state of the art in engine oil bench testing.

I'll stick to guys with oil research programs that are on par with my lab.
 

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JETninja said:
Saw a MuscleCar show on Speed yesterday, they ran a Z28 before/after on the chassis dyno. They changed Engine, Trans, Diff, to Royal Purple.

Before - 302HP

After - 308HP

(IIRC! At least it was something like that...)

I also remember HotRod Mag in about '83. A Thunderbird Turbo Coupe (2.3L SOHC Turbo), Mobil 1, same sorta test. +8 HP.

Of course most all oils have more friction reduction additives since '83. But a good Syth is more oil per Qt. Less additives are needed....that and the designed molecular structure can do a lot for friction, at the same time lowering temps. All well proven by many tests over the years.
How old was the oil in the Z28 pre-dyno? What type of oil? etc etc etc . . . you see how easily falsified this test could be?

Dave
 

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atomicalex said:
Ask any of the boutique oil vendors for their engine sequence data. They don't have any.

While the base formulations of these oils are very good, they are rarely tested under the engine sequences as that testing is very expensive (buy a motor, run the crap out of it, tear it down for measuring, toss it) and apparently our friends at these shops don't care to spend the money. If I get one more 4ball result from these guys, I think I will self-combust. They don't even run HFRR, the current state of the art in engine oil bench testing.

I'll stick to guys with oil research programs that are on par with my lab.
I wonder if the B5 community can come up with a test-supported recommended oil brand/weight list -- and post it in the info forum. IIRC, those oil-test kits are only $20 for a lab analysis. It would be cool if we could get several dozen members to have their oil tested and then post a chart of the results (with comments by AA, if we can talk her into it). :)

AA - what's your opinion of the oil test kit from http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html Is this the right analysis to do for our cars?
 

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Well, I use the good-ol'-fashioned-shade-tree-mechanic's-test. Does it feel like oil or does it feel like water?

The above test says "Just say NO" to Royal Purple.

I tried RP. I had been using M1. When I first put the RP in, it felt so much more slippery on my fingers than M1, so I thought I it was awesome stuff. Fortunately, circumstances led me into an early oil change, and at 2000 miles, the RP came out. It was like water - thin and non-viscous. I've had dino oil do better. No more RP for me, PERIOD. At about the same time, a user on bobistheoilguy.com did a UOA on his RP, and found the same thing in the numbers - a tremendous loss in base viscosity.

Here's my "feels like water" chart for the 1.8T:

Royal Purple 2000 (one sample)
Good Dino 3000 (one sample)
Mobil 1 4000 (several samples)
Redline 7000+ (haven't met it's limits yet) (several samples)

In case you wondered how I got the 4000 for M1: when I changed it at 3000, it still felt like oil. When I changed it at 5000, it felt halfway between oil and water. So 4000 is a bit arbitrary...

I change the Redline every 5000, it always feels like oil, but once I let it go to 7000 and it still felt like oil. I'm a beleeeever. Amen! Hallelujah!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
did redline quiet down your engine like royal purple supposedly does???? also should i swithch my other fluids to something else, or just stick with what vw recomends?
tia
-chris
 

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Rusty, I have to agree with you on the Mobil 1, which I have been very happy with. After about 3000 miles, I have noticed a loss of performance and smoothness. Redline is the next one I will try.

Other than that, my engine had been happy ever since I replaced my MAF 18 months ago. No issues. ATW for you! Smooth smooth smooth!
 
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