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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Andreas... You. Are. The. Man.

I was hoping you'd be able to save me here. You know your stuff for sure.

Glad to know I don't absolutely need to get the used crank balanced. The core engine I was looking at was coming off of a 2002 Passat with 250k+ miles and thats all I know about it. Calling Monday morning for more details. Hopefully picking it up.

As for the front end, I just need to drain the coolant, and it's coming off.
I got an engine stand and shop crane a few days ago that I picked up from Harbor Freight.

That step by step is really what I need right now. I bought a cheap chilton manual used and it's engine removal guide is super basic, barely any help.
 

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FWIW, the lug nut wrenches that come stock with the car make great alignment tools for the sub-frame. If you have a bone yard near by you should be able to find a few for just a couple of $.

Good luck with the swap. You'll be amazed at how easy it is to work on these once the front is off. I'd guess you will want to get the AC drained first also so you don't have to have the condenser hanging around.
 

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What do you have for tools? Do have any air tools or battery powered impact wrenches?

As you probably already know you need a complete set of metric Allen wrenches, set of Torx wrenches and a set of triple square bits.
For the Allen wrenches, I'm a huge fan of Bondhus. Get this 15pc kit from any industrial supply place.
I say this one because it has a few other handy sizes that other sets don't have. Like the 9mm that fits into the power steering pump shaft so you can get the (3) pulley bolts off with utmost ease.

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The brand Gear Wrench makes a couple of really nice sets of 1/4" and 3/8" drive hex and Torx bits.
Gear Wrench also makes a set of triple square bits. Triple square is needed for the axle flange bolts. Also for the door lock mechanisms.
My tool cabinets of multiple sets of Gear Wrench stuff.

You're also going to need a Poly-drive bit to remove the cylinder heads, but that's a bit down the road here.

The rest, standard issue metric sockets and wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers and what not.
 
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Oh yeah, if at all possible I would try and look for a donor V6 engine with less miles than the one you mentioned.
You'll have to check any donor engine you get, but the higher milage one you'll run a greater risk of the cylinder bores being out of spec for diameter, roundness and barrel condition.
The reason I say this is if you can get one with lesser miles, you should be able to get away with flex honing the cylinder walls (just enough to bring the cross hatch pattern back) and you can stick with standard piston rings. Way cheaper than boring out the block and dropping a wad of cash on oversized pistons, that may not be widely available these days. I haven't checked lately so take that with a grain of salt.

I had a donor engine for my wife's V6 rebuild I did back in 2015. It had approx 100k miles and all I did was some light machining and flex hone the cylinders and it was like brand new.
Here was the donor engine. Pretty crusty.
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Same engine block after some very light machining and flex honing the cylinders.
I sent the block out to have it boiled and the deck surface ground. I did the flex honing at my work.
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I had a feeling early on that you would end up with the same trouble. One journal ruining the bearing twice likely means insufficient oil flow to it, due to debris or some similar blockage. That's why blowing out the crank drillings is imperative before assembling the engine again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
I'm pretty sure my block is fine (120k miles), and I rebuilt my heads completely with all brand new valves back in October. When I put in the new crank and rod bearings, I could still see the factory cross-hatching on the piston cylinder sleeves (I'll check again to verify). I'm just going to throw a crank in there and make sure the cylinder 5 connecting rod doesn't have any movement (since I don't know if it has worn down at all (will do this while it is on the engine stand). I'll have to go with other options if there is more movement, but thats for later discussion. I think my piston rings are fine, although I do burn a bit of oil, but I do now realize it is within 1 qt everything 1000 miles, so factory specs. Only actually burn about 1-2 quarts every 10k mile oil change.

Getting a sand blaster with some walnut shell media to sand blast the block and repaint, mine was looking pretty crusty the last time I looked at it.

I have pretty much every socket, allen key, poly drive, E-Torx, etc that I'd need (as far as I know), socketed allen(hex) keys as well, short and long sizes (like for the viscous fan pulley) I've mostly gone with Lexivon for most of my tools, as they're cheap on Amazon and come in a carrying case along with a lifetime warranty on the tools. I often take my tools with on road trips (so cases are a need for me) incase I encounter an issues, like last year I got stuck in Salem, MA with a broken CV axle, changed that right in front of the local O'Reillys there!

I don't want to take the heads off if I don't have to as the head gasket and everything has less than 400 miles on it at this point, but I'll do it if it ends up to be easier for me. Or if I decide I just want to do piston rings while I'm in there, I'll go ahead and do that. All up in the air at this point. I do appreciate that advice though.

As for the A/C compressor and components, I'll probably just disconnect the A/C Compressor and keep the a/c lines connected, but move everything off to the side (with whatever space allowed)

I have a 150psi air compressor that I'll use to try to blow out the oil passages with, hopefully getting any remaining debris out (if there is any). But I do believe my issue was that I was outside of the wear limit on the crank which caused the spun bearing again (speculation as I actually haven't dropped the oil pan yet, want to remove the engine from the car first).

As of now I'd just need to figure out how to get the whole engine and tranny out of the car, I also want to replace the transmission pan as I am pretty sure I have a slow leak (maybe a drop every hour or so), it has some bad scrapes on it. And as soon as the engine is running I want to do a transmission fluid change, I'm pretty familiar with this stuff now, just did a tranny fluid change on a 2012 Jetta 6sp auto (without input port) and a 2016 Chrysler T&C within the last year or so. Tranny works great in my car, I just feel like it could do better with new fluid, but I'll look at manual tranny prices and see if that would be worth it for me to do, I already get pretty good milage that I'm happy with.. 25mpg avg or if I'm really trying I can get upwards of 30mpg. I'd majorly consider if it was a 6 speed, I feel like my 5sp tip is really limiting me.
 

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I'll be honest, I didn't think you were that far along with everything Passat. Sounds like your well on your way with this thing.
I actually forgot about you redoing the heads.

Me personally I'd pop them heads off and flex hone the cylinders and slap some new piston rings in. Your oil usage will go down to basically none.
My wife's car doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. That's just me though, but I digress.

I'd wait to see what the oil looks like when you crack this thing open. If the oil doesn't have bearing material or glitter in it you'll be alright.

Probably gonna need something a bit more coarse than walnut shells to blast the engine block. Walnut shells are awesome for blasting aluminum to get that nice "new" finish look.
I used baking soda on all the aluminum on my wife's V6 rebuild.

I've got a step by step set of instructions that I wrote up when I did my wife's rebuild, it's buried somewhere on my computer for you so you can pull the engine and trans together. I just gotta find it. I've got 6 hard drives to search through. I'll see if I can find it yet tonight or tomorrow. I'm pretty sure it was a Word doc. I can toss it up on Google Drive and shoot you a link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
That would be great if you could send me over that step by step instruction. Don't rush on it too much, sure it would be nice for me, but I'm heading out of the states for the month of June, so I won't get back to it until July, I mean unless I rush it and try to get the engine and tranny out before June 6th, but I doubt that haha! Thank you Andreas!

I am definitely learning a lot, but if everything goes right, I hope I will have this car for the rest of my life. We'll see how everything holds up, interior has never had issues.

I'll look into other sand blasting media options for the block, I just didn't want to risk damaging anything!
 

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Regarding the transmission, change the filter while the thing is out of the car. And might as well install a new or decent pan too, as they are not that expensive. I use Permatex Silicone sealant for the pan seal; smear a coat on the pan surface, place the gasket on it, then right before installing the pan, another coat on the exposed surface of the gasket. I never have ATF leaks. However, place a warning note in the car so that you pre-fill with ATF (I use Valvoline MaxLife synthetic) before starting the rebuilt engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Is this a good deal? $300 for a 1998 2.8 with 135k miles, saw it and was considering it compared to buying the "engine" I was talking about before, which turns out to be just a short block and it has 285,000 miles but does come with a 90 day warranty for $125. eBay link for $300 engine, I'd pick it up in person

Ran to the junk yard today, turns out the short block won't even be ready until Thurs/Fri

Also saw a couple other cool cars. 2004 Phaeton which I think has a 4.2 V8?? I'm not too familiar with those, and also a Passat 4.0 W8, which they're selling the short block for $200, not sure if that is a good deal either, they told me most heads are $150 a pop. Saw a couple 2.7T as well, A6 and Allroad iirc.

Seeing those 2.7T engines made be very tempted to buy a 2.7T short block (for only $125?!) and put my rebuilt 2.8 heads on it. Now that would be a cheap 2.7T, but my valves may not be up to the job (Threw some cheapo Chinese eBay valves in), but I am just rambling at this point, I most likely wouldn't do it as I just need my car as a daily, but very tempting to say the least.

They also have a 5 speed for $125

Any thoughts, suggestions are appreciated, want to hear what you guys have to say.
 

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Yes, the $300 for the motor is great. I would still change the plastic CCT shoes and valve seals (and all timing components).
 
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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
For sure, don't want any timing issues.

I picked up the short block (285K) yesterday and began disassembly, couldn't figure out how to get it on my engine stand though (1,000lb Harbor Freight). I am using a shop crane and a couple head studs to suspend it. So far the crank looks okayish? I took one rod bearing off and the bearing looked amazing compared to my original ones, although there was a single groove on the crank, nothing crazy in my opinion, I saw worse on my crank. I'm not sure if I'lll have the crank out of the donor block before I leave for my trip to Philly tomorrow, but if I do, I'll share photos, struggling to get the timing/serp components off due to major rust, I don't think the serpentine pulley at the crank has been taken off for 10+ years. I'll look into picking up that $300 engine as well if it is still around by July 1st when I get back into the states, would be cheap insurance if I end up needing a part.
 

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Gotta find that write-up that I did. I'll get it posted up before too long.
 
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Are there mounting holes on the front, like this
 

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Are there mounting holes on the front, like this
No, that is a rear-mounted timing chain setup. This is a V6 (2.7TT) block partially torn down:



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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Hey Andreas! Any luck on finding that write up?

I'm on vacation in Estonia right now, having an amazing time. Getting back to the states on the 1st or 2nd and I'll probably start working on my car again then!
 

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Hey Andreas! Any luck on finding that write up?

I'm on vacation in Estonia right now, having an amazing time. Getting back to the states on the 1st or 2nd and I'll probably start working on my car again then!
Somebody call my name?

Yes, I found it! Wow, it was really buried on one of my hard drives.
It's missing a couple of items but it should get you through the meat and potatoes of the project.
I was going to try and fill in the blanks in the next couple of days, but at least I've got it.
It's a Word .DOC
We used to have a licensed Adobe suite at work, I don't think we have it anymore. I would have liked to convert to PDF. I've done that in the past without Adobe using the Word function but it breaks it up pretty bad.
Let me fiddle with it for a day or two and I'll see what I can get done. Either way I can drop on Google Drive and send you a link.
 
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Spun the same bearing again 🤦‍♀️. Ran for a good 25 miles.
still deciding on whether I wanna pull my pistons and do the piston rings.
There's a possibility when the first time it spun, the rod overheated and is no longer round. If it's not true, can't keep tension in holding the shell in place. It won't take long bust out.
I think you'll need to replace that rod. Which means you'll need to match balance it to the other rods. So pulling and replacing the rings will have to happen.

ALSO the new control arm from the newer Audi model with the different part number works great, drove amazingly straight despite me dropping the whole subframe. (can't forget to buy those alignment pins)
I just use my trusty classic USA made Craftsman 3/8 drive 14mm deep socket with an extension as my alignment tool. Fits perfectly.
 
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