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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Well, I suppose you aren't wrong. For the fun of it I looked up beer consumption by country and Germany is in the top 3, I'm sure they drink a lot more in the rural parts too! Ha, thats fun to think of. Anyways, I'm going to try to power through fixing everything, also bought some plastigage for the bearing (it was $2, so why not), hopefully to negate any fears I may have. Knowing me it'll be bad, but hoping to have my car back together with 3 weeks? That feels very optimistic for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Currently have the front and 2nd main bearings installed. You can definitely replace them while the crank is still in the engine (and engine in car), but it is easier said than done. I probably spent an hour each getting the top main bearings out from above the crank, very carefully using a screwdriver and a rubber mallet. I have had to adjust the crank quite a bit, hoping that doesn't bite me later. Just got the rear-most main bearing out and both of the thrust bearings just fell out, so I decided I would try to replace them, wasn't a concern for me as much since the bottoms looked fine (and an auto), but having a horrible time getting the top-rear most thrust bearing in.

After I can do that I am planning to get the rear most (#4) main bearing in and then finally work on #3, it feels like it is stuck with an elastic glue in there, I pry at it and it springs back... bizarre. But so far not going absolutely terrible. Should be pretty smooth sailing after these main and thrust bearings are installed. I am very familiar with doing timing at this point and sealing the upper oil pan with the VW sealant, should be a lot easier to put together than when I took it apart, I had the subframe still installed, but it's been out since the starter bolt issue. Going to try my best to get the car drive-able by the end of the week, but may not be until next week.

Will also update with the results of the plastigage when I get to the two remaining rod bearings to be installed.

Wish me luck.
 

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Just to commiserate, my son's 2015 golf was blowing warm AC so he talked to me into the recharge. I figured after 7 years there would be some leakdown. Put in the smallest an we could , but it still seems like we over filled it. Probably have to take it to the shop with the machine and get it evacked and recharged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Just to commiserate, my son's 2015 golf was blowing warm AC so he talked to me into the recharge. I figured after 7 years there would be some leakdown. Put in the smallest an we could , but it still seems like we over filled it. Probably have to take it to the shop with the machine and get it evacked and recharged.
It's always something! I've always hated working with AC. Never worked well in my 2016 Town and Country, but has always worked perfect in my 2001 Passat. Refilled both a couple years ago, very little to no change in the T&C, and a few degrees colder in the already very cold Passat. Good luck with the Golf, hope it's not too costly for that AC fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
I got all of the bearings installed! Working on front crank seal right now. Looking here Continental (038103085E) VS Elring (038103085E, 155.560) VS Victor Reinz (038103085C)... the Continental ($3.09) is literally just a repackaged Elring ($10.79), so save yourself the $7 and get the Continental front crank seal. The Victor Reinz ($3.99) is actually apparently a 35x47x10 instead of a 35x48x10 like the original/Continental/Elring. Victor Reinz is ACM/Steel/PTFE, while the other two say PTFE/ACM, original doesn't say anything. Good thing to note is the original says it was made in France, so theoretically you could guesstimate what the original manufacturer is. Elring/Contiental/Victor Reinz don't match the original design, albeit similar.

TL;DR... The Continental seal is just a repackaged Elring, so buy the Continental seal and save $7, paying just around $3 total OR buy the original for $20. Did not look at Corteco ($9.09), bought the wrong Victor Reinz seal (REI-813436700), needed (Victor Reinz REI-812429210).
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Subframe and all the suspension is back on and engine is together. Just gotta install the tires, metal bumper support, bumper cover and a couple little odds and ends. Technically I could start it right now, just a little scared about doing it, haha. Hoping to finish it all today
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Welp, most of it is back together, just cosmetics at this point pretty much. Started it and it stalled. Should I give her another go? Gas in it is from anywhere between Oct and Dec (abt 3 gallons), just put in 2-3 gallons of fresh gas. Just sounds nasty, did put in assembly lube on the inner bearing surfaces and a mix in the oil pump since I rebuilt that. It does still turn over, with the little clearance I had to manually turn it over. Youtube link
 

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:oops:
That's pretty noisy. You sure you got oil in it? It should quiet down after about 5 seconds or so.
My V6's were never that noisy when starting up for the first time after major engine work.

Question, did you remove the connecting rods / pistons from the engine by any chance?
What about the connecting rod end caps? Those are fracture machined. They can physically go on in either direction, however the fracture machining process requires they get re-assembled in the exact manner they were removed. (i.e. - number 1 cap with number one connecting rod and all of the numbers facing a certain direction)
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Yep, put 6 quarts, and a bit of seafoam in it (changing oil in 100 miles). Didn't remove the connecting rods/pistons from the block, I did bring them down a bit when installing new bearings, but that is about it. I'm 99% sure I got the cracked connecting rod end caps on right, I had them numbered (I think they also have numbers hammered into them as well), but I also had the oil drain the whole time while the car sat. Do you think it would be a terrible idea to start it again? I don't feel any resistance so far.
 

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If you've got oil in it and you're sure you've got the rod end caps the right way, give it another shot.
It should start to quiet down after a few seconds, if it doesn't shut it down. Don't push on the gas pedal at all, only idle speed.

If you could, capture another video while starting it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
Take two, gasoline powered boogaloo. It idled! OUCH! That was very very loud, much louder in person than it was on video. Will see if my issue is resolved on a short drive?! youtube link
 

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Those aren’t great sounds, but let’s not assume the worst. I would want to confirm good oil pressure and isolate the noise. Guessing you didn’t have a low oil p alarm, so that’s a basic confirmation but a gage would be good. For the noises, you could remove the serpentine belt briefly and start it to see if any accessory is creating the noise. Next up is a stethoscope to isolate the location better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
I did definitely hear something that sounded like a failing rolling/tensioner, a couple of them are as old as the car, but those would be for the serpentine belt for sure. Timing belt rollers and tensioners are all new (within 250 miles).

I also have an update, I drove it around for a bit last night, had it run for around an hour and 20 minutes without any lights showing up, brought it to 6k rpms, no low oil pressure or anything abnormal. Drove about 18 miles. I do hear somewhat of a very minor knocking sound, but I would assume that would be something else as I am not having any symptoms of actual rod knock. It may be a tick sound, I'm honestly not sure. I'll see if I can record something. I noticed a couple things probably need to be adjusted, like I don't have my bumper on so I could hear my fender liner waving in the wind.
Speedometer Odometer Gauge Trip computer Fuel gauge
 

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It's normal to have very loud CCT clacking after extended disassembly. Great work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Sorry, unfortunately the no news is bad news in my case.

Spun the same bearing again 🤦‍♀️. Ran for a good 25 miles, started knocking bad while I was in the car wash, so I had to wait and drive it out, ended up driving it most of the way home until the oil pressure light came on, at which I turned it off immediately. Towed it the 1/8 mile rest of the way home. Preparing to pull the engine and do a full rebuild preferable. Would delay my next rebuild to 250k miles.

I tried and I'm glad I am at least learning.

Trying to pick up a 2.8 core half an hour a way from me for $125 (compared to buying a used crank on eBay for the same amount), hoping I can mash the two engines together and make one good one. I'll have to bring the crank from the core (assuming it isn't too bad) to the machine shop to get it balanced, still deciding on whether I wanna pull my pistons and do the piston rings.

Sorry to disappoint, I'm not thrilled either. But driving it around and having it run made me feel a lot better about all of it. ALSO the new control arm from the newer Audi model with the different part number works great, drove amazingly straight despite me dropping the whole subframe. (can't forget to buy those alignment pins, would save me so much time...)

Someone will have to give me the scoop on how to pull the engine and tranny all at once (5 Speed Tip), took a bit of stuff out of the engine bay already. (Pics included)
Might be thinking about a manual swap while I'm in there, but sounds like a pain to throw a 5 speed in (no real advantage), doubting I'd be able to find a 6.
 

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Welp, at least it was a shot.

As far as a core for an engine, you can use any 2.8l V6 from 1998 to 2005, either an AHA or ATQ, it won't matter. All of the internals are exactly the same.
What differentiates between an AHA and ATQ is all external.
The intake, throttle body, vacuum system and exhaust are the only differences.
I've mixed and matched a few AHA's and ATQ's. I can give you all the dirt needed for a successful mix and match recipe.

If you want to do a manual swap, now's the time to do it. Doing so will for sure get you better MPG's than the Tip set-up.

There should be no need to get a replacement crank balanced. I bought a used crank when I did a full rebuild on my wife's V6, no balancing required.

I've pulled about 20 v6 engines on the B5 / B5.5 platform. I'm not saying I'm the foremost authority around here, but I've gotten pretty good at it doing it without any help.
After pulling an engine and separately once, now, the only way I do it is with engine and trans together. The total amount of work to pull the engine and trans together is less than trying to pull the two separately.

As for pulling the engine and trans as one, the first thing you'll want to do, is pull off the front end. That's what is called Service Position.
Here's what Service Position looks like.
Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive tire
 
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I can give you a step by step instructional for an engine/trans pull with a fair amount of pictures for reference.
 
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