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2001 B5.5 Volkwagen Passat GLX
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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
I'm feeling optimistic for polishing the crank. I'll do some light polishing based on some videos online and see if it will make it smooth with very little polishing, just hoping I wouldn't have to get a oversized bearing (I mean it can't get much worse right?? Polishing or used crank). I just don't think I can put anything more into it right now. I have put just under $3,000 into it within the last 6 months (timing belt failure, and now this). The way I am thinking about this here, is if it doesn't work, I can more easily take everything apart since none of the bolts will be seized anymore, and I have an idea of how everything is done, so theoretically I could have it back apart again in two weeks or so if need be(Bought everything on FCP, so I can get free replacement).

I planned on doing a full rebuild at 200k miles which is my goal to get to until then, but may just have to do that at 180k miles instead. I'll try to polishing the crank today and get an idea, I'm just really hoping it isn't too bad, but it was bad enough I could feel minor to a bit more than minor grooves on the crank.

Wish me luck.
 

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Is there any chance I can save this? Or should I expect a new crank at this point.
I feel bad that after all the time it took to get at this point, you are looking at pulling the engine (AndreasPassat can do that in a few hours). My opinion is that with bearings that shot, trying to smooth damage to the crank is pointless. The plastic junk that you found, along with the knock, means that the engine starved for oil. So you probably have bad rod bearings too, maybe cylinder damage as Hirnbeiss said, and I'd be concerned about the cams. I think that you'd be better off changing that engine for a good one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Okay, so update... It seems like the crank isn't as bad as the bearings suggest. No scratches on any surface but cylinder 5, and I only feel them with a finger pressed down, but my nail doesn't catch it. I'm doing a light polish of all the bearing surfaces and I'll throw it back together, if it works, it'll work for the time being, but if it doesn't... no harm done, I mean the bare minimum I'd need is a crank either way. Car was only driven a mile and a half or so at less than 2000rpms when the low oil pressure light popped up, so maybe that is what ended up making the damage minimal. Anyways this will be a good learning experience so far. I did check the cams and they looked alright, I'd more-so consider changing out the engine if I hadn't done the full top end rebuild and timing belt job. I also rebuilt the oil pump, and will be doing three oil changes within the first 10k miles after I get this back together. I know some people will not agree, but I always did 10k full syn oil changes with castrol edge 5w-40, most likely will lower that to 7500 mile changes, although most of my driving is highway for road trips.

95% sure that plastic found in the oil pan was from when my timing chain tensioner went out, cut a hole right through my valve cover!! If that is even possible, I mean I guess they were small enough to get through the oil passages. No plastic pieces found broken on the bottom end from what I can tell, even the oil pump chain tensioner's plastic piece is mint (Changing it out anyways). That was at 80k, this engine has had a tough life and I intend to make it suffer a bit longer.

Besides all that, suggestions on removing the front and rear main bearing caps? Having a hell of a time removing them, got the middle ones out easy... I took the allen bolts that hold in the sides and screwed it into the middle thread on the bearing cap, hit it with a mallet and wiggled them out without an issue. Front bearing cap is wiggling, but won't come down, and rear is stuck badly in place, very little clearance due to the tranny. Is there a puller or anything for that so I can pull them while the engine is still in the car or anything? Just tired of wasting time and want to get it done and will pay what is needed (within reason, not going to spend $100+ on a puller).

Also looks like you definitely can just tap the main bearings somewhat out and they slide the new one in while the old one is being pushed out. Will do that after assessing the final two main bearing crank surfaces, but they look to be in very good shape.

As exciting as this experience has been, I am very much hoping I will be finished with this soon. At least I could do this in a couple weeks if I needed to do it again. Yet again, feeling somewhat optimistic going forward.
 

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I think you’re in rarefied air for bearing cap removal tips. A self-made slide hammer might work, but I wouldn’t go gorilla on it to avoid damaging threads. Maybe a little heat on the crankcase can help, or possibly light lifting pressure on it to help unsqueeze it, but you’d have to be careful not to crack anything.
 

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At the very least, I'd try to shake each connecting rod end to feel for play. That rod knock you heard will still be there unless the worn rod bearing(s) are changed too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
At the very least, I'd try to shake each connecting rod end to feel for play. That rod knock you heard will still be there unless the worn rod bearing(s) are changed too.
Yep, I will definitely be changing every bearing. Bought all brand new ones from Glyco. I will definitely try shaking the connecting rods after too, thank you for the suggestion!
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Looking here, my issue with getting the front main bearing cap out is there is a little pin that sits between that and the front of the engine (I snapped my oil pump chain tensioner off by accident, have a replacement), do I really have to remove the front sealing flange to take that pin out?! Anyway I might be able to work around that?
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Discussion Starter · #88 · (Edited)
Also, any chance anyone might be able to find the part number for this? I stripped one of mine pretty bad, would hate to reinstall it. One of the four allen bolts that hold in the two center main bearing caps from the side, 6mm allen. I tried and tried again, but couldn't manage to find any information or anything even close to this with the flanged head. While I'm this, assuming that I have to take the front flange off, I would need a new front crank seal. Which one would anyone recommend.. Corteco, Victor Reinz, Continental, or Elring for the crank seal?
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It's a pretty generic VW bolt/screw. Length and width in mm and we can probably find a part number.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Hope these can help. M8x1.25 Thread pitch, length of bolt is ~32.1mm and length of threading is ~23.8 long. I'll have to get width in a little bit.
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Looks like it would be N10238804 M8x24
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Just got the crank bolt out, surprisingly wasn't terrible. Soaked in WD-40 every 4 hours for 12 hours, then soaked in PB Blaster half an hour before attempt, put in the cam lock bar, crank lock pin, and two locking pliers for the timing belt on the cam gears, took 3 people and a 1/2" 2ft breaker bar with a 3 1/2ft metal pipe and it came right out, I used a 24mm 1/2" long socket for extra clearance. Should hopefully be able to get the first main bearing cap off now after I take out the crank gear and the front metal flange of the engine. I am replacing the oil pump chain and tensioner while I'm in there. I bought 3 different front crank seals and will install whichever looks best, spent about $20 on those (Elring, Continental, and Victor Reinz).
 

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Good to read that you got the crank bolt out. I had a neighbor with a GTI who was fighting the crank bolt, and called me to come over, frustrated as hell. I took the breaker bar with socket, and placed the end of the bar on his garage floor, so if the crank turned in the normal direction (CW viewed looking at the head of the bolt) the bar would resist the rotation. I then told him to 'blip' the starter for a fraction of a second. The bolt was then completely loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
I've heard of people doing that! I would've done it like that myself if I actually had the starter connected, ha! Definitely went a lot better than many stories I've heard. Glad, I needed something easier. Just waiting on parts now (crank bolt, front crank seal), then I should be able to assemble the engine and start it up!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
So apparently the pin is part of the main bearing cap, as stupid as that is. Also despite the VW manual stating that it uses a sealant for the front flange, it most certainly uses a metal gasket... theres another week of waiting on parts, but whatever, I'll survive. As much as I love my Passat, I hate those german engineers for the pain of this single pin, there has to be a better way, like maybe a bolt that goes all the way through the front flange into the main bearing cap at least?? I mean they put bolts right through the side of the block to hold in the two main bearing center caps.
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That pin is probably an alignment pin for the flange.

Catching up on your progress. Probably good you have thoughts of doing a full rebuild in the future. I have a concern because of a spun bearing, that the rod crank end might be out of round. A machine shop would check that for you. But since it's still in the car, that's bit harder. So just go with it and when you pull the motor, then have everything measured and trued correctly.
 

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Mercedes engines (at least of the ‘90s ilk) are well known for locating pins in the front timing cover. They are threaded on the inside and removed either by leverage, using a long bolt and a stack of washers, or with a slide hammer. Could this one be the same type?

As far as the engineering part, remember you’re talking about Audi engineers, home based in Ingolstadt, which is rural Bavaria. They probably have a beer buzz going all day long.
 
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