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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
99 passat 1.8t AEB

I just spent A LOT of time replacing the oil pump on this car, when the job was done and I started it i could here the turbo spinning loudly and it sounded very "fast" . The car runs for 1-3 secounds and then dies. If I apply gas it keeps going but the turbo sound persists and as soon as I let off the gas it dies.

Car was suffering from low oil pressure. Dropped the pan and pickup tube was gunked up. Replaced the pump, added new oil filter and fresh 5w-30 Mobil 1 ( previously it had 10w-30. And those where my results. :mad:
 

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The turbo was probably damaged from the low oil pressure. I've had it happen on 2 cars I worked on. As for the car stalling, you may just need to adapt the throttle body with VCDS to get it running correctly. Did you check the cam bearing surfaces for damage before replacing the pump? Luckily, both cars I replaced pumps on the motors were still good despite the dead turbos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think it was the low oil pressure that got to the turbo (hopefully). Didnt get to check the cam, but the car was driving and running alright before i put the new pump in. On inspection I can see some oily residue on hoses and exits of the turbo so i guess its leaking?

No the turbo seamed fine before hand. But made the noise immediately on the first start after the oil pump replacement. Is the oil i chose an issue? I will try replacing the turbo with a new one. BTW, when the turbo is installed and i reach my hand to the rod of the waste gate actuator, should I be able to manually open and close it or is it pretty secure and firm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also could you clarify why i would need to adapt the throttle body with VCDS after an oil pump change? Is this something that I could do myself or a shop has to do?
 

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The throttle body alignment is always a good first step when you're having issues with an AEB since it is still a drive by cable engine. Touching anything associated with the throttle or a dead/disconnected battery can make it run like garbage until you do a TBA.

It's a VCDS procedure, so a shop has to do it if you don't have the software (or I have it depending on where in FL you are). It takes about 30 seconds to do and the one time I had a dealership do it after I bought the car it was $30.
 

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suggest Purolator (made by Mann) #40316 filter, adds about 12% more oil volume to an already under capacity oil system on the 1.8s ,not to mention greater filtering ability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I live close to daytona. I didnt disconnect the battery when working on the car this time around...

So would you recommend replacing the turbo and also having someone do the TBA?

Thanks for everyone's input!
 

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If the turbo was OK before replacing the oil pump it should be OK now.
I would definitely get the TBA done before considering anything else.
 

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Start with the TBA and test the oil pressure to make certain the pump solved the problem. You may not have run the car long enough to build oil pressure, so do not trash the turbo quite yet.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Does the oil pump need to be primed????? (i assume yes....) I forgot!!! what do i do? Really would hate to pull this whole thing apart again.... How does one even prime this pump, just pour oil in before bolting it on?
 

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You should pour oil into the pump before installing.
If you have oil pressure now, it has primed itself.
If you don't have oil pressure, don't start it; remove the oil pan and find out why ?
Do you have oil pressure and what is it ?

No oil pressure is about the only thing that would explain the sudden turbo noise.
It is probably possible to get an air lock in the pump that could prevent pumping.

Get the TBA done.
 

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Is the oil i chose an issue?
Of course it is. If you don't use full-synth 0W40 (cold climate) or 5W40 (warmer climate) you end up with gunk in the oil pan and oil pump/turbo failure.
The turbo is sensitive to the film in the oil. When turbo gets red hot it literally burn the regular oil as it's not resistant to high temperatures. That is the reason you need full-synth oil that withstands those high temps. Number 40 in 0W40 refers to the oil suitable for higher engine and turbo temps while 0 (or 5) refers to the ambient temperature.
 

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Remove the pump and prime it.
Or.... Remove fuel pump fuse. Bleed fuel pressure from rail (or, disconnect fuel injectors.)
Crank engine for 30 seconds, repeat 3 times. Allow 2 minutes between crankings for starter motor to cool.
Enable fuel system, and start engine. (this is lifted from service procedures for, ah, another German marque, for bleeding the oil system in an engine prior to startup.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Or.... Remove fuel pump fuse. Bleed fuel pressure from rail (or, disconnect fuel injectors.)
Crank engine for 30 seconds, repeat 3 times. Allow 2 minutes between crankings for starter motor to cool.
Enable fuel system, and start engine. (this is lifted from service procedures for, ah, another German marque, for bleeding the oil system in an engine prior to startup.)
Thats what I ended up doing. Removed the fuel pump fuse, and disconnected the plugs, I didnt drain the rail or disconnect the injectors however.

https://youtu.be/QZNOD6CWzBQ

Does it looks right to you?
 
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