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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a 2000 Passat 1.8L. Car has been pretty good for the last couple years. My son broke off the knob on the power mirror adjustment switch so I ordered another one. Carefully pulled the door panel and disconnected the wiring. Pulled the switch out and put the new one in and then reconnected everything. Before putting the door panel fully back on we tested the mirror switch. It worked.

So we buttoned up everything and then the mirror switch didn't work. The car would not turn over either. You could get all the electronics working, but the starter would not turn over. Then, after pulling the key from the ignition the radio would keep working. Now the windows don't work at all and the car doesn't turn over.

We carefully disconnected and reconnected all the wiring harnesses in the door. We even put back in the old switch. Nothing changed. The car does not turn over. We even tried jumping the car with my truck in case the battery was dead. It didn't turn over.

We then tried disconnecting the battery as the car seemed confused as to whether it was running or not. No change.

Here is the potentially bad part.
I do have a Ross Tech VCDS and downloaded version 18.2 Software. Ran the auto scan and there were no fault codes. But now I have to wonder if there were fault codes in the car that disconnecting the battery erased. Either way I just went out and rescanned the car. No fault codes again.

Thoughts?
 

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2004 GLS 1.8T
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You probably shorted something while re-assembling the door, and blew the fuse supplying the CCM. (I think it's #14, but don't quote me). The puddle light at the bottom of the door is a common short. If the CCM isn't powered, the car won't start. Start by checking the fuses.
 

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2001 Passat wagon; 2016 Golf Sportwagen
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Been there ... done that. Blown fuse.

I installed an aftermarket mirror switch, which blew the fuse a couple of days later. The blown fuse prevented the security relay from closing. (You can either jumper across the relay or replace the fuse.) You almost definitely have the same problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You probably shorted something while re-assembling the door, and blew the fuse supplying the CCM. (I think it's #14, but don't quote me). The puddle light at the bottom of the door is a common short. If the CCM isn't powered, the car won't start. Start by checking the fuses.
OK. So I finally pushed the car out of the garage to work on in in daylight. It was hard to see clearly with lights in the garage.

The car still would not turn over at all. The windows also didn't work, but the door locks did from the drivers side door mounted switch. I did not share that my son pulled the inner door cover off the first time and when I walked out to see how he was doing he was brute forcing the connectors. Pushing very hard on the release tab and pulling hard. When they did release they did so with some force. So much so he cut his hand. I had to explain to him that old wiring like this (or any wiring for that matter) doesn't like to be yanked. Showed him how to use a small screwdriver or pick to release the tab and then wiggle the connector off.

Anyway, we went back out today and carefully pulled the inner door cover off again. I then carefully inspected the wiring in the door looking for breaks. To your point, I paid extra attention to the puddle light at the bottom. It almost seemed like the brass ends of the wired were touching in the back of the connector. I untwisted it one time and they had better space. Then I took every fuse out one at a time and inspected them. None were blown. I should also point out we had put the old mirror switch back in.

Then I tried the key and it started. I did it multiple times and it worked very single time. The best I can figure is either one of the wiring harnesses did get torqued and by carefully straightening the wiring on the back of each connector it reconnected something. Or possibly removing all the fuses one at a time pulled power from some module that reset itself after putting the fuse back in 15 seconds later.

Either way it is working. I have not buttoned it back up yet as I want my son back here so we can do this without stressing any connectors or wiring. If you have ever pulled this door there are a number of connectors that are difficult to remove if you have to also support the door panel.

If something changes later today when we button it back up I'll come back and post. Thanks for all the suggestions on what to check.
 

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Well OK!! Glad to hear.....mirrors are over rated anyway,ha! I wanna know where I 'm going, not where I've been. seriously good news, as a caveat to this as I am no expert, but did the car not start because it "thought" it's security system checks and balances were compromised and it went into immobilizer mode?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well OK!! Glad to hear.....mirrors are over rated anyway,ha! I wanna know where I 'm going, not where I've been. seriously good news, as a caveat to this as I am no expert, but did the car not start because it "thought" it's security system checks and balances were compromised and it went into immobilizer mode?
Not sure what happened. I didn't do a good job explaining it in the previous posts, but the entire car seemed confused. You could turn the car key on to power the dash and turn on the radio and the radio would keep playing even after you turned the power off and pulled the key. At one point the windows did work, but the mirror switch didn't. Then the windows stopped working. All this with no fuses blown and no error codes pulled on the Ross Tech.

Hopefully it will continue to work now.
 
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