[Q Brizzle]

Has anyone ever been successful in removing the struts via the two nuts holding the strut to the body (in the back part of the engine compartment)? Obviously there is some debate whether this is even possible, due to the placement of things like hard brake lines and other things.

But jeez, if you could do that, it would alleviate a lot of problems!

In fact, it might almost be easier to remove those two driver-side brake lines to gain access, then just bleed the brakes after the job! Heck, they're copper right? That stuff should flex without breaking pretty well.

No need to touch the pinch bolt or whack away at the CA's / balljoints or any of that crap.

Obviously, a wobble-type socket extension would be needed, but I'm not sure what else. I think I'm going to try this before wrestling with the pinch bolts.

 

[scotts13]

Take pictures as you go, please. We promise not to point at your head and laugh if it doesn't work out.

 

[GreenCar]

I was wondering that...

Why couldn't you drop the front LCA and undo the shock/strut from the top, pull the whole unit out from the bottom?

 

[Q Brizzle]

Undoing the strut from the top IS the issue.

I just wonder why VW put the access caps above the strut mount nuts if they never expected to be able to get them off without the UCA mounting plate coming out as well. Seems like if that was the design, you should be able to get 'em out. I'm curious to know what the Bentley manual says about this...

 

[PZ]

You can drop the front LCA to do the job. I've not tried it, but it should work. It might be a tight fit through the UCA on the way down.

 

[PZ]

Undoing the strut from the top IS the issue.

I just wonder why VW put the access caps above the strut mount nuts if they never expected to be able to get them off without the UCA mounting plate coming out as well. Seems like if that was the design, you should be able to get 'em out. I'm curious to know what the Bentley manual says about this...

You can undo the 2 bolts holding the shock to the mounting plate from under the hood. On some older Passats the a/c line is in the way but you can still get a socket in there. For the brake lines on the driver's side, they can be bent forward to make room, no need to detach.

 

[Jesujoma]

I did see DIY for this on line. Will take a look for it.

 

[Jesujoma]

Oh I found it, it looks like they did it without touching the pinch bolt. I do not have experiance with this procedure so cannot comment on it.

http://www.dubclubs.com/vw-passat-spring-install.html

 

[vwb5t]

i've done maybe 8 suspension swaps and not once have i pulled the pinch bolt or LCA, heres what you do in the engine bay directly above the strut there are 2 body plugs that are the same color as the body, remove those. next jack the car up and support on jack stands and remove front tires, now under the 2 body plugs are 2 13m nuts remove one and loosen the other but leave it on. next remove the 18mm bolt on the lower fork of the strut, note: if its your first time most likely the bolt is in the correct way which makes it really hard to get out i had to jack the suspension up and use a drift pin and hammer the bolt out, you will scratch the LCA but it will come out using a persuader.

next part is easier with a buddy but you can do it alone, on the control arm where it goes to the tie rod end there is a notch, using a pry bar insert the bar on the notch and onto one of the spring coils, next pull down on the pry bar the spring will compress but the suspension arm and LCA's will go down with enough force you can pop the fork of the strut over the LCA and it will be free, be careful not to ripe the CV boot, and sometimes removal of the sway bar end link is needed (16mm bolts and nuts), lastly finish removing the 13mm nut on top of the strut while supporting the strut and pull it out.

 

[Q Brizzle]

Thanks for the directions!

One question, what tools did you use to remove the top two nuts? Specifically, the forward driver's side nut that is tucked under two brake lines.

:thumbup:

 

[vwb5t]

13mm deep socket and an extension, i just move the brake lines a little bit to sneak the socket in then use a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the bolt if it doesn't stay in the socket (i use a black goo on the bolts in my car so they remain in the socket when they are out)

 

[Q Brizzle]

Cool! I just got all 4 plastic caps off, and it looks relatively straightforward. I'll get the deep well socket tomorrow. I need a set of those anyway!

Thanks for the tips.

 

[thirtysixspokes]

It's really really easy to do it this way. I have never disconnected the sway either.

The AC lines can be pushed out of the way enough to get the socket and extention (I use a shorty socket not a deep one) in and out w/o a problem, and the brake lines are out of the way enough to get past. If you have those plugs out you've already done the hardest part.

If you have the chance to work under a hydrolic/pneumatic lift, it's even easier. The weight of the wheel pulls the LCA out of the way enough to not have to fenaggle with anything.

 

[Q Brizzle]

Just wanted to follow up and thank everyone for the detailed instructions and support. I was able to do this without ever touching the pinch bolts. The hardest part was moving the suspension down enough to get the shock fork over the LCA. The new ones went in MUCH easier than the old ones came out!

Unfortunately, I don't think it will be long before I'll need to replace the control arms. Maybe next spring. I'm getting some bushing noise on the left side, and the left side upper ball joint seals look a bit checked. Ah well.

 

[graham.tillotson]

Thanks for the post on this one. Just swapped the struts on my car (2001 Passat 1.8T GLS) and wanted to write up my experience:

• Changed the struts when working on the brakes, so I had the brake lines disconnected at the ABS module. No idea how you could get a socket onto the strut bolt without disconnecting one or both brake lines. Mine had zero play and I didn't want to force anything.
• No problems getting to the top bolts on the passenger side. A/C lines moved and I didn't even need a swivel socket.
• Strut mounting bolt on the driver's side absolutely would not come out, even with serious banging. The head of the bolt just dug into the LCA no matter how I turned the wheels or jacked it up. Ended up cutting the bolt almost all the way through with a Dremel and then pounding it out.
• Passenger side strut bolt was no problem. Pounded it out and over the LCA without jacking up.
• Getting the bottom of the strut up and over the LCA was mostly about feel and not force. I got a pry bar in the notch and under the spring, and then I lifted the spring and flipped the strut bracket up and over the LCA. This happens directly over the inside end of the CV boot, which stressed me out a bit, but I greased the CV boot first and made sure the strut bracket didn't have any sharp spots that would catch.

And hey, it only took two trips to a VW dealership to get replacement strut bolts!

Graham

 

[Wahobbert]

Has anyone ever been successful in removing the struts via the two nuts holding the strut to the body (in the back part of the engine compartment)? Obviously there is some debate whether this is even possible, due to the placement of things like hard brake lines and other things.

But jeez, if you could do that, it would alleviate a lot of problems!

In fact, it might almost be easier to remove those two driver-side brake lines to gain access, then just bleed the brakes after the job! Heck, they're copper right? That stuff should flex without breaking pretty well.

No need to touch the pinch bolt or whack away at the CA's / balljoints or any of that crap.

Obviously, a wobble-type socket extension would be needed, but I'm not sure what else. I think I'm going to try this before wrestling with the pinch bolts.

Yes, It works fine if you don't want to wrestle with getting that bolt out of the top of the steering knuckle that retains the upper control arms. You don't even need to mess with the brake lines at all aside from tying the caliper someplace out of the way. Just remove the wheel and spindle/hub bolt. Knock the rear lower and forward lower control arm ball joints loose and remove the three nuts up inside the engine compartment and the whole thing can be removed.

 

[VAGguy]

Yes, It works fine if you don't want to wrestle with getting that bolt out of the top of the steering knuckle that retains the upper control arms. You don't even need to mess with the brake lines at all aside from tying the caliper someplace out of the way. Just remove the wheel and spindle/hub bolt. Knock the rear lower and forward lower control arm ball joints loose and remove the three nuts up inside the engine compartment and the whole thing can be removed.

"that bolt out of the top of the steering knuckle that retains the upper control arms " is call the Pinch bolt.

They are talking about the brake hard lines that run over top of the strut tower in the engine bay on the driver side. They need to flex a tiny bit to get a 13mm socket in between to remove the two nuts holding the shock to the upper control arm mounting plate.