Volkswagen Passat Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,

My B5.5 V6 4motion sedan has a wobbly front drivers side wheel. I suspected the tie rod end and replaced that but soon discovered that a control arm bushing was shot also.

In doing my research before replacing this Forward Drivers Side Rear Control Arm (yes that is a mouthful) i have read that it is a pain to remove the bolt securing the control arm. This is because there is not enough clearance to pull the bolt all the way out.

This leaves you with two options.
1. Drop the front subframe slightly. Until you have enough wiggle room to remove the bolt. This is not ideal because the subframe bots are stretch bolts and are meant to be used once. It is difficult to find replacements for these bolts. Because of this i am hesitant to crack them loose.

2. Cut the long bolt. This option sounds nice and easy... but the natural next question is... how hard is it to fit in the new bolt? Is it possible to remove the old bolt by cutting and then fit in the new bolt by tapping it with a hammer?


If anyone that has done this could weigh in i would really appreciate it. Should i be worried about loosening the stretch bolt for the subframe? And can i cut and replace the bolt for the control arm?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
313 Posts
I cut and replaced the bolt. You will need to put it in the opposite direction it came out, with the head of the bolt to the front of the car. There is a hole in the subframe that you fish the bolt through.

You may want to consider doing all of the control arms, both sides. If one is gone, the rest may not be far behind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I cut and replaced the bolt. You will need to put it in the opposite direction it came out, with the head of the bolt to the front of the car. There is a hole in the subframe that you fish the bolt through.
Thank you! This is exactly what I was hoping to learn.

Yes i was thinking about doing this... but i may be opening a can of worms... the car has lived in mn with the salt and potholes all its life and it may be a bear to separate all those joints. Why they decided to use so many i will never understand.

I see there are some relatively affordable kits that contain all the components for a full front end rebuild. Do you have a recommendation on which are reliable? Or conversely, information on which to avoid?

I see a URO kit running for ~180-220
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
313 Posts
I used kits from FCPEuro.com. They seem to work fine. Mine is a FWD, and also spent most of it's life in MN, running down gravel roads. The worst is the upper pinch bolt. I found an air chisel is your friend. Once you go to put it back in, apply antiseize generously, and you won't have a problem with it next time. Also a good ball joint separator is helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,997 Posts
I cut and replaced the bolt. You will need to put it in the opposite direction it came out, with the head of the bolt to the front of the car. There is a hole in the subframe that you fish the bolt through.

You may want to consider doing all of the control arms, both sides. If one is gone, the rest may not be far behind.
Exactly. Makes life soooooo much easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,343 Posts
do not drop subframe as you really gain no advantage.....as you can get to all of them, and as suggested ,reinserting new ones backwards if need be, if you get a kit make sure it comes with new bolts....how many miles on car? There is a wealth of info ,do's don'ts, tricks,methodology,sequence....and the dreaded pinch bolt removal in the B5 information - base, it is time consuming but not technically challenging as let's say timing belt or CCT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,810 Posts
On my B5's I have removed the rear subframe bolts (one at a time to maintain position of the subframe), and used a crow-bar to apply just enough leverage to get the necessary clearance for the control arm bolt, which is actually not much. Afterwards I applied Loctite to the subframe bolts and reused them as a normal torque-bolt. Not the recommended method, but I don't worry about the bolts breaking or falling out.

I would skip the ball joint separator, because a sharp whack with a hammer on the ball joint stud end, with it's nut even with the end of the threads, always works for me. Soak the stud with penetrating oil spray for a while before breaking it loose.

I have used control arm kits from Vaico and CXRacing, the later being very low-cost (something like $100 for the complete set) but worked perfectly fine. My only issue was with the Vaico kit for my B6 A4, which had defective sway bar links, so that the rubber bushings broke loose from the Aluminum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
313 Posts
I would skip the ball joint separator, because a sharp whack with a hammer on the ball joint stud end, with it's nut even with the end of the threads, always works for me. Soak the stud with penetrating oil spray for a while before breaking it loose.
Normally I would agree with you. The only reason I mention it is because the last time I did my control arms, one of my lower ones would not come apart no matter how I beat on it. I ended up wasting a few days tracking down a separator that would work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,810 Posts
Yes, you are right that sometimes the methods that should always work, don't. Case in point is my '05 A4, which has Aluminum suspension castings. There are Steel bushings pressed in the casting for the tapered ball studs, and one of them came out still stuck to the ball joint stud. That interrupted the job, because then I had to leave the Aluminum casting in the sun to expand, and the steel bushing (after using a puller to get it loose) in the freezer to contract, so it would go back into place.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top