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Discussion Starter #1
Now where's my blood pressure warning?oh my just can't handle that blow to the chest every time it went off.

It shouldn't happen.just did belt change at 200k km and now added some 2000kms to it.while doing the belt i told the guy to drop the pan and clean up whatever junk that might be in there even though never had any pressure warning before.turned out,i did it just in the nick of time because there sure was quite a buildup under there.

I was pretty relieved with what was done until out of nowhere the red warning was shouting at me to stop the car.stopped i did,opened the hood, pretending to know anything about checking signs of oil starvation, closed the hood,and the warning disappeared for about a week.

As of now,i'll get the warning more frequently.stop and restart,the warning will come back as soon as i got back to normal speed.but after stopping and cooling it down for 10-15 mins, it will stay down.i live in tropical area,for that period the engine will still be pretty much hot.

I hesitate to drop the pan again because money is quite tight at the moment and considering the preventive job was already done, together with fresh synthetic juice.

Im using 4l 5W40,and because the same grade wasn't available in 1l package,i topped it off with almost 1l of 0W40, both vw502/505 approved.

Now i try not to drive it anywhere thinking that the prospect of being left stranded with a blown engine is quite high so im seeking good advice here

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Your symptoms indicate that a fault in the sensor circuit is unlikely.
I suggest you connect an oil pressure gauge and check the oil pressure before driving again.
If the oil pressure seems OK, drive it for at least 20 minutes and recheck while hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Your symptoms indicate that a fault in the sensor circuit is unlikely.
I suggest you connect an oil pressure gauge and check the oil pressure before driving again.
If the oil pressure seems OK, drive it for at least 20 minutes and recheck while hot.
Can this be done at any garage?is the procedure any different from other cars and does it it require any vw special tool?sorry for my ignorance.the nearest garage usually refuse to do anything to my car just by looking at the make it scared them away.they're only good with japs

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It is fairly straight forward, the adaptor has straight threads, a lot of cars have tapered threads. This shouldn't be a problem.
 

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what year is the vehicle? the "build up" of coked crud is typical in the 1.8s and no doubt it was "built up" as you state, caution has to be taken not to do to much scraping and breaking free of stuff in the engine block area,loose crap just immediatly finds its way to oil pick-up tube/screen ,thus the "stop engine light", if the pan was off should have replaced oil pick-up tube,screen and new o-ring ,wash out pan and reassemble
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It is fairly straight forward, the adaptor has straight threads, a lot of cars have tapered threads. This shouldn't be a problem.
How about the pressure threshold?is it the same with other cars?im asking just in case the garage able to hook up a gauge but unsure what the reading should be

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
what year is the vehicle? the "build up" of coked crud is typical in the 1.8s and no doubt it was "built up" as you state, caution has to be taken not to do to much scraping and breaking free of stuff in the engine block area,loose crap just immediatly finds its way to oil pick-up tube/screen ,thus the "stop engine light", if the pan was off should have replaced oil pick-up tube,screen and new o-ring ,wash out pan and reassemble
year is 2005.No, cleaning was done in the oil pan and the pickup tube.not the block itself.according to them,the block was fairly free of sludge

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Oil pressure requirements are similar on most modern petrol engines.
Post results read after the car has been driven for at least 20 minutes, at idle, at 2000 RPM, and 3000 RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just got home after being away a little longer than i should have.have hooked a gauge but had a peek into the oil pressure switch area and saw a leak.praying hard hoping this would be the culprit.to fix the leak,do i have replace the whole switch unit or just the washer?

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If it is leaking through the switch you would need to replace it.
You should still check the oil pressure anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It was a false alarm after all.the switch was really loose, allowing oil to seep thru.about a turn with a wrench was all it took.The switch was drenched in oil.it prevents good connection.took a can of electrical contact cleaner and sprayed the heck off it.and sure enough,no more red oil can warning.what a relief.



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