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not buying a laptop just to get a serial back. Do you think it will work with a serial emulator/adapter?
 

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From what I've read on VDS-Pro:
No. The software only runs in an MS-DOS environment (where USB drivers just don't exist.)

I hazarded a trial run of it on a couple of machines that I have. It will, at least, start in Win8.1 32-bit (but, can't test connectivity on that, because it's my desktop); it will not run at all on Win8.1 64-bit (my laptop.)

That said.... I picked up an older (but not too old) Dell on fleabay that suited my needs for this. Cost: $59.
 

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Some more coding action today. And, I can now actually release the tailgate from the remote, and from the driver's door.

Two bits to change:
Bytes 04361-04363, bit 1: Tailgate operation via remote (1: disabled; 0: enabled)
AND
Bytes 04367-04369, bit 1 (1: disabled; 0: enabled.)

Credit for this last change goes to Lucas at tdiclub.com. Found this in ~p.37 of the (currently) 49-page thread on CCM configurations with VDS-PRO

So, I now have an NAR B5.5 Passat wagon, whose tailgate:
1- is "unlocked" when all doors are unlocked, and
2- can be properly released from the remote.
 

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Wow! I have been tolerating the stock behavior with my 02 Wagon since - well, since May 2002
Well, thank you, sir!

And, I got an ejector stop solution worked out this week, too. :)

A mechanical update for the thread: Ejector stops for the tailgate!
These aren't quite a straight swap, as the Audi parts are slightly smaller than the VW pieces. But, the Audi bits do fit inside the VW bits - so, I grafted the two together!

First up, the new parts. Audi 4F5-827-249-B (stop buffer with ejector.)


And, your existing tailgate stops:


Old stops disassembled. The rubber buffer just pops off, and then the stop can be screwed into and thru the base - it's a left-hand thread.


You'll need to grind the top two threads out of the old stopper base, so that the Audi part will fit inside of it, as shown. A Dremel, of course (with a rotary file, a router bit, or even a drywall-cutter bit) works great for this stuff:


Stacked together. Note that the Audi part covers the mounting holes in the old base:


Quick work with a grinder makes those go away:


Once you're sure that they fit, and you'll be able to push the rivet pins back in, you can glue them together. I used urethane, because it's incredibly strong, and maintains a little flexibility. In other words, it won't crack or break apart.
Glue applied (you don't need a lot!), and new assembly clamped together overnight for the glue to cure:


Most likely, you'll find that you'll screw the new stop all the way in, as it's a bit taller than the original was. Start at that point, make sure that the gate opens & closes correctly, maybe need to turn them out a click or three. That done, pop the ejectors out - insert a #2 Phillips screwdriver, and turn the ejector ~1/4 turn left.
Enjoy a gate that pops itself clear of the latch.

Finished product, installed:



There also might be a BMW part that's a direct replacement - I need to make a couple of measurements (and probably a test fit) sometime; will update this post again when that happens.
 

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Came across this thread when searching for a cure for this rear liftgate nonsense. Is this still the only way to solve this problem ?
It CAN be changed!!!!!!!! :D :D :D

Tools needed:
VDS-PRO
MS-DOS bootable flash drive (I used Rufus to create it)
Laptop with serial port
serial-OBD cable


Memory addresses to change:
address old value new value
04370 6 4
04371 6 4
04372 6 4

04352 41 105
04353 41 105
04354 41 105


Credit for this does go to ReflexJettaVR6 at PassatWorld - it was his thread that I pieced the info together from:
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/b5-garage/346503-yet-another-ccm-issue-thread-now-more-trunk-release-action.html
Some more coding action today. And, I can now actually release the tailgate from the remote, and from the driver's door.

Two bits to change:
Bytes 04361-04363, bit 1: Tailgate operation via remote (1: disabled; 0: enabled)
AND
Bytes 04367-04369, bit 1 (1: disabled; 0: enabled.)

Credit for this last change goes to Lucas at tdiclub.com. Found this in ~p.37 of the (currently) 49-page thread on CCM configurations with VDS-PRO

So, I now have an NAR B5.5 Passat wagon, whose tailgate:
1- is "unlocked" when all doors are unlocked, and
2- can be properly released from the remote.
I hate having a separate button for the liftgate: always forget to hit it when getting out & key in ignition.
 

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Came across this thread when searching for a cure for this rear liftgate nonsense. Is this still the only way to solve this problem ?


I hate having a separate button for the liftgate: always forget to hit it when getting out & key in ignition.
Yes. Cannot be changed with VCDS - need VDS-Pro (and, hardware to run it on.)
I still offer CCM re-coding services - either send me yours, or we can do an 'exchange' service (I set one up for you, you send me your old one back after you swap the box.)
I also still have one pair of 'assist springs' (they install on the tailgate struts) (note: are for O.E. 'chrome' struts, not aftermarket 'black' struts) available for sale.
 

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This is my dd, so can't be w/o ccm, or problems w/ swap. Is this re-programming operation done thru OBD2 connection?
I have an old Dell laptop w/ serial port.
If that's not old enough, I still have my Commodore Amiga circa 1988 !
This looks like something I can do myself, but I do appreciate the offer of help.
I will look for a serial-to-OBD2 cable. Locating the VDS-Pro software seems to be the difficult step. Hate to catch a virus by dl-ing a suspect file.

What is the function/need for the " assist springs "?
 

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That old Dell laptop would be perfect. I have the software on OneDrive - I'll PM you a link.
Cable: Search eBay for "VAG KKL RS232 OBD cable" Like this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KKL-COM-port-RS232-Serial-DB9-Diagnostic-cable-with-FT232RL-for-VDS-Pro/152865942090?epid=25013088925&hash=item2397852a4a:g:feMAAOSwI59aHnqA
Important point: Cable MUST have a chip (like, say, this cable's FTDI chip) to work - 'straight thru' cables won't work (been there, done that.)

Assist springs:
They work better than the modified ejector stops did. And, if you use the remote (or driver's door) 'trunk' buttons... the gate is incapable of clearing the lock on its own (unassisted.) The ejector stops didn't quite have enough "oomph" to clear the gate latch; the springs (with healthy gate struts, and in warmer weather) will actually fully open the gate for you (in cold weather, they'll at least get the gate clear of the lock.)
 

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Depends on the variables of who has what listed for sale. That was just my quick search.
Today, Amazon came up dry. eBay is (shockingly) usually more consistent with availability.

If it makes you feel any better, I think that my KKL serial cable came straight from China. While cheap, that thing took a minute to get here.....
 
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