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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed my PureMS strut brace this morning! After wanting one for a long time, and then trying to buy a handmade version last Spring that never came, I finally got my hands on one used.

First let me say that the difference is *unbelievable*! [2003 GL wagon, stock except for 225/50/16 Pilots on RA wheels]. I tested it out on a twisty road and the highway, and I have much more confidence now than before. The steering was really floppy, and didn't give me enough feel; now, although it could be better, it's much tighter. :thumbup:

I had a tough time installing it though. For those who are as incompetent and/or thickheaded as me, or simply not as competent as others apparently are, here are some additions to the official instructions:

1. The bar goes with the notches DOWN. The upper side of the bar as installed should be one straight line. :banghead:

2. The cable under the master cylinder to be detached from the firewall is the one running horizontally along it, with a cable tie clipped through the firewall. Definitely remove this; I squeezed the sides of the clip with a wrench from the engine side and then pushed it through the firewall.

3. Make sure you route the bar on the battery side of the battery ground cable, not the firewall side. I ended up detaching the cable from the battery and re-reouting it under the bar rather than suffer the pains of getting everything in again. :(

4. It may seem like the passenger-side bracket won't fit in with the AC lines in the way, but you shouldn't have to force it. There are a number of different ways you can try to get it in there; I think the fourth way I tried is the one that worked. I'm not sure how, but I think I put it in between them and then rotated it around as I got bits of it in there.

Don't forget to torque the bolts to 75Nm and don't reinstall the washers.

In the instructions at http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel32.shtml for the S4 brace install, I found it hilarious that the bracket-bar bolts could have a torque spec. I was lucky I managed to get any kind of wrench in there to tighten them, let alone a torque wrench. I tightened them as hard as I could with a small wrench.

I think if I had gotten all the stuff above right the first time through, it would have been much easier to get the bar in there. I know it would have taken me less time (I think I spent about 1:15 on it rather than the half hour PureMS estimates).
 

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Sorry to jack the thread but anyone install this on a W8? Figure its the samething but just wanna know before I order it.
 

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i told you that bar was kick ass! i missed it the second it came off. i need to see if I can make an a4 bar work somehow.
 

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I installed my PureMS strut brace this morning! After wanting one for a long time, and then trying to buy a handmade version last Spring that never came, I finally got my hands on one used.

First let me say that the difference is *unbelievable*! [2003 GL wagon, stock except for 225/50/16 Pilots on RA wheels]. I tested it out on a twisty road and the highway, and I have much more confidence now than before. The steering was really floppy, and didn't give me enough feel; now, although it could be better, it's much tighter. :thumbup:

I had a tough time installing it though. For those who are as incompetent and/or thickheaded as me, or simply not as competent as others apparently are, here are some additions to the official instructions:

1. The bar goes with the notches DOWN. The upper side of the bar as installed should be one straight line. :banghead:

2. The cable under the master cylinder to be detached from the firewall is the one running horizontally along it, with a cable tie clipped through the firewall. Definitely remove this; I squeezed the sides of the clip with a wrench from the engine side and then pushed it through the firewall.

3. Make sure you route the bar on the battery side of the battery ground cable, not the firewall side. I ended up detaching the cable from the battery and re-reouting it under the bar rather than suffer the pains of getting everything in again. :(

4. It may seem like the passenger-side bracket won't fit in with the AC lines in the way, but you shouldn't have to force it. There are a number of different ways you can try to get it in there; I think the fourth way I tried is the one that worked. I'm not sure how, but I think I put it in between them and then rotated it around as I got bits of it in there.

Don't forget to torque the bolts to 75Nm and don't reinstall the washers.

In the instructions at http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel32.shtml for the S4 brace install, I found it hilarious that the bracket-bar bolts could have a torque spec. I was lucky I managed to get any kind of wrench in there to tighten them, let alone a torque wrench. I tightened them as hard as I could with a small wrench.

I think if I had gotten all the stuff above right the first time through, it would have been much easier to get the bar in there. I know it would have taken me less time (I think I spent about 1:15 on it rather than the half hour PureMS estimates).
nice:thumbup:
how much????
where to buy????
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, now that I disconnected the battery ground, what problems should I expect? The only thing I've noticed so far is that my windows don't do one-touch-up anymore ( I could swear they used to!); can I get this back?
 

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where can you get the parts needed for diy sturt bar, i know its the end links from a a6 and the main bar is from an s4, i saw modified A4's writeup on it...but where do you get those parts? stelaership?
 

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yes the purems endlinks are from the A6.

I used the S4 bar because there were alot less modifications involved compared to using the A6 bar (and the purems kit didnt exist at the time). I believe with the A6 bar you have to cut a good portion of the bar down.

anyway...happy turning :)
 

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Well, now that I disconnected the battery ground, what problems should I expect? The only thing I've noticed so far is that my windows don't do one-touch-up anymore ( I could swear they used to!); can I get this back?
Hold your finger on the button and run your windows all the way down.
Release.
Hold your finger on the button and run your windows all the way up.
Release.

Now test and enjoy the one-touch feature.
 
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