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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My rear pads need to be replaced at 34K miles, so figured I'd do both front and rears to match with a rotor-friendly pad like PBR/Axxis Deluxe Plus or EBC Greenstuff and be rid of the OEM Jurid dust-bunnies.

Since my rotors are in very good condition (no cracks, scoring, warpage, etc.) and if they're above the min thickness (haven't measured yet) can I get away with just cleaning them with some brake cleaner and installing the new pads then bedding them?
 

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I found that the rear pads get chewed up faster than the fronts by a long margin. I would reccomend just the rear pads and clean up the braking surface after they are installed and bed the new pads.

Obviously if there is scoring on the rotors and you are above minimum thickness you can have them turned. On the edge of the rotor is a wear line and a minimum spec stamped on the rotor.

Hope this helps,

Cheers,

Malcolm
 

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from all those posts i read on this forum it is not reccomended to turn rotors because of their thin constuction in the first place.do a search anyway
 

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My rear rotors and pads needed replacing at 40k (V6 4Motion).
It might be worth biting the bullet and just change the rear rotors as well.
I think "stock" spec rear rotors are pretty cheap.
Also - you will need a proper rear caliper compression tool to do the rear pads.
 

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i am doing my rear brakes and changing the rotors.
i have had bad experiences with mettalic pads and resurfacing.
i actually just got tehm from the UPS guy:)
i paid $32.00ea. got them from
http://www.germanautoparts.com/
good prices and very helpful people and shipped got here in 1 day.
got oem type pads for $28.50 also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the replies so far. I know the rotors (esp rear) can't be turned. Ridiculous that rotors have apparently become "disposable" these days.

I wonder if the break-in compound on EBC greenstuff would essentially "clean" my rotors enough during the bedding process? They claim it does this.

scottpassat2.8 - thanks for the link, I see they carry the Jurid OEM pads so I may just buy these for now and hope they offer a "seamless" transition. Did you try to change rear pads alone and it didn't work out so now you have to install new rotors?
 

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scottpassat2.8 - thanks for the link, I see they carry the Jurid OEM pads so I may just buy these for now and hope they offer a "seamless" transition. Did you try to change rear pads alone and it didn't work out so now you have to install new rotors?
didnt intall them yet.and i have the jurid brakes, made by honeywell.
i always do brakes in sets since metallic's came out.
the main reason why we have to change bolth is because, well metal on metal.not asbestos on metal.
thanksgiving weekend i have some work cut out for me.
front cv boot, rear brakes, snub mount, new wipers, and a detail all in one day i hope!!!

if you are worried about the pads read this link...
http://www.bendixbrakes.com/company/news.php
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I hear ya.....my friend who's a serious Audi tweaker gave me a set of calipers to measure the disc and I'm not sure I can do that even with the wheel removed - due to the dust shield that looks like its completely in the way around the entire disc. Looks like I'll have to jack it up and try at this point, anyway. Don't want to be riding around on thinned-out rotors.
 

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in a related note: i just put new pads and as of recent, new rotors on. Now ive got a griding sound, and more recently a mean squeak. I mean LOUD! and then when i was turning into a parking lot, i heard a low-pitch groan from the front wheels...what is going on?? anyone have this before?
 

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what kind of pads did you use and what rotors?
did you do the brakes?
and from what i read, you didnt do them together?
did you get on the brakes after you put them in to "bed" them?

the "groan" is probally a control arm.:Yikes:
 

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i did the brakes, then the dealer did the rotors. now a squeal. at first i thought i could turn the rotors, but then decided just to have the dealer put new ones on. thats when the problem started. I used oem pads, and they were on the old rotors for a few days...maybe that's why they squeak now?

as far as the control arm groan- its the first time ive heard that sound, and is was after a lot of braking in city streets, so the brakes were very hot, so that's why i thought it was related
 

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My rear pads need to be replaced at 34K miles, so figured I'd do both front and rears to match with a rotor-friendly pad like PBR/Axxis Deluxe Plus or EBC Greenstuff and be rid of the OEM Jurid dust-bunnies.

Since my rotors are in very good condition (no cracks, scoring, warpage, etc.) and if they're above the min thickness (haven't measured yet) can I get away with just cleaning them with some brake cleaner and installing the new pads then bedding them?
No real prep work needed. Just be sure they are clean. Bedding the pads may take longer. If you want, you could sandpaper the rotors, but it is not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I removed my left rear wheel yesterday and mic'd the rotor width - 9.9mm. So, essentially no appreciable wear from the OEM pads and no cracking, warping, grooving....smooth as silk. Stamped min thickness is 8mm (0.315") for those who are curious.

Looks like I'm just going to order some Jurids from germanautoparts.com and call it done. Hopefully using the same pad will mitigate any bedding/squeaking issues since I'm not turning the rotors. (Thanks, Scott - that's the only site I've seen list that mfr of pad!)
 

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I removed my left rear wheel yesterday and mic'd the rotor width - 9.9mm. So, essentially no appreciable wear from the OEM pads and no cracking, warping, grooving....smooth as silk. Stamped min thickness is 8mm (0.315") for those who are curious.

Looks like I'm just going to order some Jurids from germanautoparts.com and call it done. Hopefully using the same pad will mitigate any bedding/squeaking issues since I'm not turning the rotors. (Thanks, Scott - that's the only site I've seen list that mfr of pad!)
If you went through a full set of pads and your rotors show no wear, you got ridiculously lucky. Based on what limited records I have of my car's service prior to my buying it, the rotors had to be changed every second set of pads.
 
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