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I was searching a website this morning, and saw some items that I thought would lower the intake temps for some cars. Now, I PM'ed the company, and am awaiting a response from them as to pricing, and possible gains.

This company's kit says that it will provide a 30-50 degree change in IC core temps. They get this reading from taking a temp reading from the front of the IC, then from the back. They have their own temp gauges for each side of the core, and is all run electronically, or manually by the user. Now, Im guessing that this kit uses a CO2 mister system, and thats something else I am awaiting a response from.

What kind of gains does one receive from installation of a powergasket for the intake manifold? I am looking for a PG that will fit a '98 AEB, non-DBW. A website, and price would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Steve
 

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Steve, that has to be a Co2 system, not just a water mister system. I have not seen that large of a drop with my misting system. It works well, but not a 30 to 50 degree grop. It has to be some sort of compressed gas they are squeezing on the IC to cool it that much.

As for the PowerGasket, I can't tell you what the drop in temps will be. I haven't installed mine yet. :roll: I've had it for over 4 months now and have been putting it off. I guess I'm just being a big baby not wanting to tear into the fuel rail and crap. Because if I do that I know I'll end up port matching the manifold and head so they line up propperly and flow better. :roll: :crazy:
 

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Chas, I just started the portmatching process this weekend and its a big pain.

It is going to take me over twice as long to portmatch versus just installing the powergasket originally.

At least you have nDBW, so there are fewer vacuum hoses to mess around with :)

I'll do a writeup when I'm done. My current delay is that I want to clean the intake valves a bit, and I don't know what to use(any suggestions?). I also want to compare my powergasket with another person's, to make sure I am portmatching to the correct size. Currently the powergasket appears sort of 'stretched' to the right, especially on cylinder #1 and #2 versus the stock gasket. You can see some pictures here: http://www.bethcutler.com/~swett/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album29

Sorry, a bit off topic there :)


Regarding the water spray system, is it possible to see 30 to 50 degree temp drops at the intercooler, but not as significant drops in the intake stream?

-Ian
 

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Cool pictures Ian. That's what I need to see, someone else doing this. But I don't need to hear that it's a total PITA!! Are you trying to kill me or what?! :lol:

So what's the PITA part, the porting/grinding itself? I think all you need to do is a little bit of "trimming" from the edges to make that transition smoother. Sharp, 90 degree bends jutting out into the air/fuel flow don't make for a happy engine. We aren't talking about huge increases here, but it can't hurt either. Errr... unless you really screw it up with the grinder.

As for the valve deposits, how about this: Get that particular valve you are working on closed so that nothing falls into the cylinder. Putting the car into 3rd or 4th gear and rolling it a bit helps bump the engine around if you have a 5 spd. Tip owners are SOL. :wink: :sad: Then get a long, thin screw driver and chip away what you can, being very, very, very careful not to bend or gouge anything. Then get a thin attachment on your shop vac and suck the carbon deposits out. It's a very crude, but effective way. Just becareful not to mess up. Also, a little BG's 44K dripped directly onto each valve stem with carbon deposits will help loosen the gunk up before you chip it off. Not too much though. You don't want to wash down the cylinder walls and dilute your oil with that stuff. :(

Also, ONE8T, nice logging info. Whereas Ian's post hasn't really helped me with the confidence thing here, your info has inspired me! :)
 

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Well, port-matching is port-matching. By its very nature, it's a PITA... :poke: :lol:

Chas, the very reason you have delayed your Powergasket is the same one that delayed mine. I knew I'd want to port-match once I had it apart, and I just wasn't ready yet.

I did serious matching, not just "trimming the eges". Some ports were 4mm off. The majority were 2mm off. That's a lot of metal to be slowly, carefully cutting off, to make sure you don't screw things up. Takes awhile... took me two days.
 

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Chas said:
Cool pictures Ian. That's what I need to see, someone else doing this. But I don't need to hear that it's a total PITA!! Are you trying to kill me or what?! :lol:

So what's the PITA part, the porting/grinding itself? I think all you need to do is a little bit of "trimming" from the edges to make that transition smoother. Sharp, 90 degree bends jutting out into the air/fuel flow don't make for a happy engine. We aren't talking about huge increases here, but it can't hurt either. Errr... unless you really screw it up with the grinder.

As for the valve deposits, how about this: Get that particular valve you are working on closed so that nothing falls into the cylinder. Putting the car into 3rd or 4th gear and rolling it a bit helps bump the engine around if you have a 5 spd. Tip owners are SOL. :wink: :sad: Then get a long, thin screw driver and chip away what you can, being very, very, very careful not to bend or gouge anything. Then get a thin attachment on your shop vac and suck the carbon deposits out. It's a very crude, but effective way. Just becareful not to mess up. Also, a little BG's 44K dripped directly onto each valve stem with carbon deposits will help loosen the gunk up before you chip it off. Not too much though. You don't want to wash down the cylinder walls and dilute your oil with that stuff. :(

Also, ONE8T, nice logging info. Whereas Ian's post hasn't really helped me with the confidence thing here, your info has inspired me! :)
The PITA part is partially draining the coolant, removing so many hoses with those single use hose clamps, and all that, but partially that I already broke one little part and that I haven't done it before. The first time I do anything is slow and tedious for me. Also, trying to get the carbon off so far has been more difficult than I anticipated.

Thanks for the suggestions. I have an extra can of BG44K and I figured I could do what you said, but I was concerned about pouring a bunch of BG44K into my engine. What happens if the BG44k does end up in there? I did spray a bit of throttle body cleaner on the valves I thought were sealed and that didn't seem to do much. I do have the requisite long, thin screwdriver which already has a bent head(no idea why), which is good for some light scraping. And I already have the shop vac attachments for the portmatching.

The fact that I'm writing down everything I do and taking pictures is certainly slowing me down as well. But I'd say its an all day job on a weekend, realistically.

-Ian
 

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A guy here with a GTI has a powergasket and an IR pyrometer. Very impressive results. I am tempted, but like you guys will end up wanting to get out the Dremel and chew on the head a good bit. Even if the gasket showed up tomorrow, I still wouldn't get to it until spring. I'm going to tackle the $150 head in the Rabbit first. That is a cheap learning experience.

I am definitely leaning towards this gasket. IC mister is not such a big deal here, thank God.
 

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check on vwvortex, there is an Audi TT owner (TTschwing IIRC) who installed one and did some testing, looked like it worked pretty good.

on audiworld there is info about the mister, also a decent little gain.
 

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Misting is a good idea, but the powergasket is a bit silly IMHO. Has anyone calculated how long a molecule of air sits inside the intake manifold at WOT? Probably like, .00000000000001 seconds. And probably not enough for it to pick up any heat. :p
 

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That is a good read Nenad. I just read that a couple of days back. Again, I was inspired to finally do this on my car. But then the temps dropped and working on a cold wet engine is the pits. Plus I have been busy with work like a banshee!!!! :roll:
 

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I realize my datalogging may not be the most scientific, but the conditions for the runs were almost identical. Also, I believe both GIAC and APR chip programs look at IAT as the second variable when determining what map to run, coolant temp is the first. If you lower IAT, you get more timing advance, more timing advance is more power.
 

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In any case I am interested on '99 V6 buying. So, I am in for any action.
 
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