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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just posted this in another thread but just in case some people might have missed it. 034motorsports.com have came out with a kit that completely replaces the old leaky PCV system; from the o-ring all the way to the Pressure regulating valve, which I ordered from ECStuning.com because it was a considerably lower price there.

Check it out...

Here is a link to the breather kit...
Breather Hose Kit, AEB/ATW B5 Audi A4 & Volkswagen Passat 1.8T, Reinforced Silicone - 034Motorsport | Performance Parts for Audi, Porsche, and Volkswagen

and a link to the pressure relief valve...
Home Page > Search > ES261091 - ECS Tuning Inc

It has been hell trying to replace this system for a decent price and now I am satisfied. Just thought I'd share a little of my PCV parts replacement experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just installed the silicon PCV from 034. Didn't even take the intake manifold off. The old PCV was a bitch to get out, the new silicone hose was easy to install. Hardest part about the install with the manifold on was getting the retaining pin on the crank breather. I'd say it took and hour to take apart and less than 30 mins to put back together including swapping my coolant resivior which needed to be replaced.
 

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2001 Passat wagon; 2016 Golf Sportwagen
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Thanks for posting. I have been doing some of this work piecemeal, but perhaps I should just break down and do the whole thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
All of the tedious work is done under the manifold so pictures would not do justice. It would be easier if I explained it...

The first thing I suggest for tools is:
Phillips screwdriver
A couple different length (10 inch or longer) Flathead screwdriver. This is used to prying the single use clamps and hoses loose.
Long pliers to help with prying all of the clamps and hoses loose

step by step this is what I did:

1. Unscrew coolant reservoir screws, disconnect coolant sensors and move the reservoir to the front of the car. This makes room to put your hands under the manifold.

2. Unscrew clamps at the pressure relief valve connected to the turbo intake pipe. Unscrew two Allen screws holding the hard piping in place. This will allow you to wiggle the pipe around and free it from underneath the intake manifold

3. Un-clip the pin holding the plastic crank breather tube in place. I used a long Flathead popped it up and grabbed it though the manifold spaces. I broke this piece off (which helped me in the later step of pulling the rest of the tubing out from under the manifold.

4. Unscrew the S hose (make sure not to damage because you need to reuse this piece), connected to the vacuum pump, at the the T hose. This will allow you to slip the rest of the tubing out from under the manifold if you have already broken the plastic piece. It took some wiggling and bending of the hardened tube but I got it.

5. At this point you should have the entire PCV system disconnected from the car

6. Connect the S hose to the new silicone hose using the new check valve and tighten the the two clamps on the check valve. (This is easier than trying to connect them once its in place under the manifold)

7. I chose to run the new silicone tube from under the manifold and going up through the same path I tore the old hose out of. This allowed me to keep the S hose connected to the new hose while I wiggled the new hose all the way through.

8. Once the hose is all the way ran through I tightened the end of the new hose to the pressure relief valve on the turbo intake valve

9. Tightened the S hose clamp back onto the vacuum pump

10. Slip the metal tip into place and I used long pliers to clip it to the crankcase.

11. Put the sensor back on the coolant tank and screw back onto the car


I can add some pictures for some of the steps tomorrow, but I think this is pretty self-explanatory ..tear out the old system and connect the new one. I'm just glad I didn't have to piece everything together and reuse that hardened tube because that would be a bitch. A big thanks to 034 making my install easy by making this tube. The only thing I would suggest to them is to make the tube longer because it wraps around and touches the valve cover a little. I'm not worried about it though. Ill share pics about this as well.

edit:here is a couple shots of how the hose sits. It just seems like its a little too short to wrap around the vc without touching it and it rubs on the SAIP hose so I will have to secure it to relieve some of the vibration ware on the hose. Overall I am very satisfied with the result.
Auto part Engine Vehicle Car Fuel line
Auto part Engine Vehicle Car Subcompact car

Here is a shot of the breather connection to the crank case after a week of install.
Auto part Pipe
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for posting. I have been doing some of this work piecemeal, but perhaps I should just break down and do the whole thing.
The weakest part of this system is that plastic piece connect to the crankcase. If you replace that you should just replace everything else and be done with it. It took me an hour and a half and now I don't plan on touching it until it leaks again.
 

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Can't vent to atmosphere, you'll end up with a vacuum leak. The stock system is a closed loop, pancake valve and PCV valve both draw vacuum from the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It has been almost a week since I replaced my PCV system and oil cap with a vented one and now I think the vcg leak is almost none existent. I am going to thoroughly degrease my engine and figure out if I still need to replace my vcg. Anyone have any experience with this possibility of not changing the gasket after a PCV overhaul and changing the oil cap to a vented cap?
 

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Are there other options for replacing this besides the $148 one from 034motorsports?
Other than piecing it together with OEM or OES parts? Not that I know of. Adding up everything you'll need will likely cost just as much.
 

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Anyone have any experience with this possibility of not changing the gasket after a PCV overhaul and changing the oil cap to a vented cap?
I don't have experience with reusing it. But once the seal is compromised minute oil paths are created across it, and it's impossible for it to to reseal itself. It is not self-healing. If you have oil inside the spark plug wells you really should replace it.

But you have nothing to loose really. You can try leaving it there. Clean the area then monitor for new oil stains.

Given that your engine got to this state, I'd replace it (but first degrease the area thoroughly). It's a fairly easy job so you don't need to be afraid of it. You need to be careful though. The tensioner compression tool requires you use it slowly and you still won't have lots of space to remove/replace the old CCT gasket and half-moon. You should also inspect the CCT pick up screen (you'll need a small mirror for this).
 

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So far I am not able to give 034motorsports.com a good review.

They were very responsive and replied to emails right away.... until I paid! then nothing for days on end.

I paid on 4/11 then didn't hear a peep until 4/17 (after sending 2 emails asking if they received my payment ok) I was told "it shipped out a while ago."

I then sent 2 emails asking for a tracking number 2 days later I received:

" The tracking number never left. The package is incomplete and the lower breather hose is holding up the order.
Shipping is telling me two weeks out. If you need it immediately I am told
we can do another lower hose solution using the OEM bottom."


I told them that I wanted what I paid for and not oem.

We'll see what (and when) I finally get. He's hoping Im able to say they came thru. Just an FYI for those thinking about ordering from them.

-Charles
 

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I did finally get it.

Its a bit tricky installing without removing the intake, but better then pulling the whole intake off.

Auto part Pipe


I think Im going to make 2 bracket similar to the factory tube to support it, I don't like how it kinda flops around the top plastic cover.
 
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