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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so I finally bit the bullet and bought a set of brembo rotors and about to get pads(oe, axxis or ebc greenstuff - not sure yet). I dont think I'll have a problem replacing them however I am not sure if there any tricks or procedure that should be done that are not listed in the Bently

e.g.
1. Guide pins: Should I replace them or can I use the same
2. Guide pins lubrication: any high temp caliper grease or should I buy VW specific (if so what is it)
3. Lubrication of the rubber sleeve/boot: I read you need to use a silicone only lube ... is this true and if so which one
4. on a previous post someone suggested I lube the the part of the caliper that the pad sits on with High temp anti seize, to make sure that pad doesnt stick to caliper. can i use high temp calliper grease? and what eaxctly should i lube.
5. Brembo suggests to check trueness of rotor once installed by using a micrometer .. should get one or can i just slap those babys on and foget abouit.

thanks
 

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Call me a slouch, but I don't think I've ever done any of the things mentioned on that list. Have put anti-seize on the backs of the pads, but the pins and other mechanical parts didn't seem to need more than cleaning. Also for trueness, just cleaned the hub mounting surfaces before installing rotors.
 

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RobsB said:
so I finally bit the bullet and bought a set of brembo rotors and about to get pads(oe, axxis or ebc greenstuff - not sure yet). I dont think I'll have a problem replacing them however I am not sure if there any tricks or procedure that should be done that are not listed in the Bently

e.g.
1. Guide pins: Should I replace them or can I use the same
2. Guide pins lubrication: any high temp caliper grease or should I buy VW specific (if so what is it)
3. Lubrication of the rubber sleeve/boot: I read you need to use a silicone only lube ... is this true and if so which one
4. on a previous post someone suggested I lube the the part of the caliper that the pad sits on with High temp anti seize, to make sure that pad doesnt stick to caliper. can i use high temp calliper grease? and what eaxctly should i lube.
5. Brembo suggests to check trueness of rotor once installed by using a micrometer .. should get one or can i just slap those babys on and foget abouit.

thanks
I did my brakes last summer.
1- You don't need to replace the guide pins.
2- Don't need to buy VW specific. I used stuff from Auto-parts store. Don't remember what it was called.
3- I didn't lube anything rubber.
4- You should do that. Again, nothing VW specific.
5- You can tell if the rotors are true or not after installing them and braking from 40+ MPH. If you feel a vibration in the steering wheel and brake pedal then one or more of your rotors are not true.

Make sure you perform the break-in procedure as well. There are variations on how to do this. If you search the forum you should be able to find something.
 

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What time is Matlock on?
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RobsB said:
and about to get pads(oe, axxis or ebc greenstuff - not sure yet).
Get PBR Axxis Deluxe...they're awesome (my .02) with NO squeeking

RobsB said:
e.g.
1. Guide pins: Should I replace them or can I use the same
You CAN use the same if you want...not detrimental to change them

RobsB said:
2. Guide pins lubrication: any high temp caliper grease or should I buy VW specific (if so what is it)
Doesn't need to be VW specific like the coolant

RobsB said:
3. Lubrication of the rubber sleeve/boot: I read you need to use a silicone only lube ... is this true and if so which one
I've never lubed it and doing fine at 87k miles

RobsB said:
4. on a previous post someone suggested I lube the the part of the caliper that the pad sits on with High temp anti seize, to make sure that pad doesnt stick to caliper. can i use high temp calliper grease? and what eaxctly should i lube.
You need to spray the back of the pads (that rests on the caliper) with *brake quiet* to help them from not rattling around once installed.

RobsB said:
5. Brembo suggests to check trueness of rotor once installed by using a micrometer .. should get one or can i just slap those babys on and foget abouit.
Yeah.....whatever....it'll be fine. You can always do it if it'll make you feel better, but like anyone has a micrometer just hanging around for this one instance.

Oh, and I HIGHLY recommend getting the VW caliper retraction tool (about $45 at www.germanautoparts.com) cause it'll shave hours off the time it takes to change the pads out. Also, make sure you open the brake fluid tank to allow for expansion when you are compressing the caliper pistons.
Hope it helps!
:thumbup:
 

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swcrow17 said:
Oh, and I HIGHLY recommend getting the VW caliper retraction tool (about $45 at www.germanautoparts.com) cause it'll shave hours off the time it takes to change the pads out. Also, make sure you open the brake fluid tank to allow for expansion when you are compressing the caliper pistons.
Hope it helps!
:thumbup:
Here's the linkie for that tool. http://www.germanautoparts.com/tools/Volkswagen/Brake%20tools#2

You can also rent a similar tool from Autozone stores for $35. Return the tool within 90 days and get a full refund back on your credit card.

I'll also vote for PBR pads - I'm using the PBR Deluxe on my rear brakes - cut the dust tremendously. No squeels - perfect fit. :thumbup:
 

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I have the PBR Deluxe and Brembo flat face blanks I put on the front a few months ago. As was mentioned in other posts, the Brembo flat faces do get some rust on the rotor hat. I also noticed they are rough sounding at first if your car sat in the rain or it's excessively humid out. Just scraping off rust.

The lube for the guide pin and squeel-stop can be found in single use packets at the parts store so you don't have to buy a giant can of the stuff. Same with anti-sieze.

New rotors shouldn't have to be trued.
 

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RobsB,

You negrlcted to mention how many miles are on the stock brakes...If you are approaching 100K I'd recommend replacing the guide pins and bushings with new. The pins are expensive, so dont replace unless you have alot of miles on them. The bushing are pretty cheap. Personally, after seeing my guide pins after a few miles with generic brake slider grease from autozone, I decided only to use the VW/Audi stuff when I did my brake upgrade.

I use brake quiet spray which is basically a spray adhesive, it works well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
modifiedA4 said:
RobsB,

You negrlcted to mention how many miles are on the stock brakes...If you are approaching 100K I'd recommend replacing the guide pins and bushings with new. The pins are expensive, so dont replace unless you have alot of miles on them. The bushing are pretty cheap. Personally, after seeing my guide pins after a few miles with generic brake slider grease from autozone, I decided only to use the VW/Audi stuff when I did my brake upgrade.

I use brake quiet spray which is basically a spray adhesive, it works well.
Once again the club comes through! Thanks to all for the info ... I think I will go with axxis -- reasonable price compared to oe.

as to mileage I have 102K :cry: ... the guide pins and bushings ... part number and a good source?
 

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Well, I have 140K on my guide pins, using Tyrolsport bronze bushings, and grease from the auto parts store, and mine are fine.

I think a lot depends on your climate. Wet climates, and especially wet cold ones, seem to be harder on everything rubber in our cars - control arm bushings, etc. I can see that it could affect the guide pins, too. I'm in a high, dry climate. I think my car is fortunate for that.
 

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Rusty said:
I can see that it could affect the guide pins, too. I'm in a high, dry climate. I think my car is fortunate for that.
I think you're right, im at sea level in the northeast...heavily salted/sanded roads in the winter...and lots of moisture. my guide pins had "ring like" grooves worn in them after 60k miles. this caused a wierd effect when progressively braking hard. the pins would get hung up, then release. the braking modulation was jerky...it felt like abs engaging for an instant.

here's a bad photo of them:


new bushings and pins (plus the TT/A8 upgrade) made 100% improvment :)

PNs:
slider pin: 251 615 219
grease: G 052 150 A2
bushing set: 4D0 698 647

i order my parts from 1stvwparts.com, they consistantly seem to be the cheapest that i've found.
 

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Rusty said:
using Tyrolsport bronze bushings, and grease from the auto parts store, and mine are fine.
Same here...in fact I think you were the one who talked me into buying the Tyrolsport ones last year...ah...the beginning of my mods. :)
 

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swcrow17 said:
Get PBR Axxis Deluxe...they're awesome (my .02) with NO squeeking

Oh, and I HIGHLY recommend getting the VW caliper retraction tool (about $45 at www.germanautoparts.com) cause it'll shave hours off the time it takes to change the pads out. Also, make sure you open the brake fluid tank to allow for expansion when you are compressing the caliper pistons.
Another vote for Axxis , very low brake dust on rims ;)

*Also, I would recomend opening the bleeder screw instead of the brake fluid tank because that way when you retract the calipers the excess fluid comes OUT and not back up into the resevoir. Others have said this increases potential for dirty-ing the "eye" on the ABS module causing a malfunction, ie big $$ repair. I have heard of some not following this advice but when I did mine, the fluid that came out was pretty dirty and I had a "flush" performed only 6k before so it could be worth the extra piece of mind.....just be sure to have the drain tube immersed in a cup with alittle brake fluid in it to keep any air from seeping back up into the caliper housing.

peace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was about to buy some axxis pads .. but when they asked which brake sensor connection I have - squared or rouded ... i have no idea. do i actually have to physically look to find the type of connecton or can someone tell me what i have ... 2000 atw.
 

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RobsB said:
I was about to buy some axxis pads .. but when they asked which brake sensor connection I have - squared or rouded ... i have no idea. do i actually have to physically look to find the type of connecton or can someone tell me what i have ... 2000 atw.
you should have square-round vs the older round plug.
 
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