Volkswagen Passat Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
776 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've finally decided to replace my front speakers with separates.

Right now I have a JVC Headunit (KD-SH9700) and a JL 250.1 amp powering one JL 12W3 in JL's HighOutput box.
I feel like the highs are dull and the midrange lacking for the stock speakers with this setup.
Right now I'm leaning towards the Infinity Reference 6000cs. ($90 @ ebay). I don't want anything too extravagant, just good clean sound (besides, I mostly listen to rap/hip-hop/alternative). Any experience with these speakers/other recommendations.
I'll be powering it with the deck until I can find a good deal on a 2 channel amp. **oh yeah, if it were you, would you replace the front speakers first or buy a 2 ch amp for the stock front speakers first, or should I just buy both at the same time?

How should I wire the new speakers? Can I use the factory wires or should I wire it directly from the headunit? If so, how do you take off the inner metal skin of the doors. I know how to take the door panels off but the inner skin where all the accessories are attached to seems to be stuck in place even after removing all the screws on it. I wanted to put dynamat on the outer door skins.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
well, stock monsoon amp has x-overs for front built in so if you were to use after market comp speakers you would certainly have to change amp too and vice versa, although I am exploring option of using a aftermarket passive and replace amp but retain stock drivers and wiring from trunk to front doors, I have already replaced rear door speakers with some extra beefy 6.5's that should improve the lower mid-bass, havent gotten to the trunk yet for some added low low end.

probably gonna have to get both, however you could use a passive on stock ones like I am considering just to see how far that will get you, then upgrade again from there, amp being first in that case.

~les
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,182 Posts
The answer to the question will depend on if you have the Mosoon amp or not. If you don't have Monsoon I'd do the amp first (and a 4-channel instead of a 2-channelto run some power to the rear) but if you have the Monsoon I'd wait and do it all at once.
As for speaker recommendations I'd look at something like Kicker RS6s, Alpine Type-Rs or something similarly robust.


Paul :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,038 Posts
I'd either buy an amp first (assuming you dont have a monsoon system) then buy the comps, or just buy em at the same time. Also to get the inner panel of the door off, if I remember what I saw from the last time I took my panels off, there should be bolts holding the panel onto the actual door.

Also, I strongly reccomend these

175 shipped is an AWSOME deal, I woulda bought them if I hadnt purchased a set of Alpine Type X's a few days earlier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
487 Posts
Wind the window all the way down before you start, there are a couple of reasons for that.

To get the drivers door panel off you have to pry the back of the pull off then lift the electric window switch out and unclip it from the wiring harness. Both just clip in. Next you need to unscrew two big screws that hold the center of the panel to the door which you can see burried at the back of the hole you just made. I think it's two big screws, not three little ones.

Next at the bottom of the door you will find two T-20 torx screws, take those out.

Now the panel is being held on by a bunch of clips, the right way to remove them is to use a pad lifting tool, you lift the edge of the panel and run it along until you find them then pull it out slightly so you can get the fastener in the V and pop it up. If you don't do it you can break the fastener which is irritating and cheap or you can pull the fastener mount off the door panel which is irritating and potentially expensive. Thank God for thick cyanoacrylate and "zip kicker", with that you can glue it back together... like mine.

Now carefully disconnect the rest of the wiring and the door opening cable.

You will now be faced with the speaker which is riveted in. You need to drill out the rivets and then punch them out of the door. If you don't want to lose the discarded ends of the rivets you'll need to put duck tape over the back of the rivets to stop them vanishing into the bottom of the door (ask me how I know they vanish).

The tweeter is plastic welded into the sail panel, they melt it into place. I think a 3/4" may fit the hole, if you use a 1" you may need to do some surgery.

Be careful of mounting depth. At this point you can try your new (up to 6.75") speaker in the hole and see if the magnet fouls the window that you wound down earlier before you disconnected the switches. If it does then you are going to need spacers, I have 1.5" of spacers behind my Alpines. I also used the foam waterproofing baffels you can get from Crutchfield to keep the water that might run down the inside of the door out of the speakers... though living in the east bay you probably won't know until November or December.

What's left? Just splicing in the cables. I didn't run new ones, after doing this twice I was too tired!

PS. If you have to space the speakers out you start to run into the door panel, there's a rubber/plastic gasket you can remove but there are finite limits to how deep the speaker can be.

PS. In retrospect I should have paid the $80 to have them installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
776 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't have the monsoon system so no factory amps.

Hmmmmm.....
I guess I'm just gonna get both an amp and components.
So any comments on the JBL GTO75.4, 75 watts x 4 channels or maybe the JBL P180.2 and just use the deck to power the rear speakers.

And a set of Alpine SPR-176As, but I still have to go listen to them first.

I don't know if I want to replace the rear speakers since I never sit in the back seat anyways. :D

Thanks for the instructions Geordie. I'll have to get that foam baffle to protect the speakers.

Where can I order the MDF spacers for the 6.5" drivers? I have plastic spacers right now but I don't know if I want to use those. Maybe just put some expanda foam inside the plastic spacers so they won't rattle. :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,182 Posts
FastPassat said:
I don't have the monsoon system so no factory amps.

Hmmmmm.....
I guess I'm just gonna get both an amp and components.
So any comments on the JBL GTO75.4, 75 watts x 4 channels or maybe the JBL P180.2 and just use the deck to power the rear speakers.
I'd do the 4 channel and new rear speakers. Unless you're as anal as I am (most aren't) or are competing you'll be better of with at least an aftermarket coax in the rear.

I'll have to get that foam baffle to protect the speakers.
First, you don't need them. Car audio speakers are designed with the knowledge that thy'll get wet in mind. We're not talking about super sensitive home audio speakers here.
Second, a lot of car audio speakers do not like having those baffles behind them. It can muffle the midrange and kill the midbass.

Where can I order the MDF spacers for the 6.5" drivers? I have plastic spacers right now but I don't know if I want to use those. Maybe just put some expanda foam inside the plastic spacers so they won't rattle. :lol:
You'll need to build them or have them built, there are no prefab MDF spacers.


Paul :thumbup:
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top