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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally finished the brake job on my '99 this weekend: ECS A8 kit up front, drilled and slotted rotors all around, PBR Deluxe pads.

This is a picture of the inner front pad:



This is an original OEM pad; I have 62K on the car. I do not think you can get any more mileage out of that pad. The lesson learned from this picture is that you must take the time to measure the inner pad when determining replacement criteria. The thickness on all of the outer pads would have led me to believe that I could have put off the work a few more months…

This is a comparison of the front A8 rotor with the stock OEM rotor:

I painted the hat with 500-degree high temperature satin black engine paint, obtained from my local parts store. My B5 inbox was wiped, so I cannot give credit to the ClubB5’er that guided me through the prep and painting process (but thanks for your help).

This is the final product up front:


I know I need to close the wheel well gap, my Bilsteins look naked: S_Klass when is the GB opening up again!?!?!?

Here is a picture of the rear, just before wheel assembly:



Due to my schedule, I did not have the time to paint the calipers. NUSIANCE, thanks for your generous offer. How did your powder-coat job go?

Here is a data-point for the bleed OUT vs. bleed BACK argument. I bought a foot of tubing and connected it to the nipple of an old baby-bottle. I used this rig to collect the brake fluid from the caliper bleed port as I compressed the caliper. To provide some perspective, this fluid was new last year (the dealer performed a complete pressure flush):



From what I hear, our anti-lock brake systems are finicky. I did not want to push this fluid back into the system.


The people at ECS Tuning (rotors and caliper compression tool) and Import Replacement Parts (PBR pads) were top notch. If anyone in the area needs to use my brake compression tool, let me know. I am sure you can use the plier’s method; however, this tool makes the process go very smoothly.

I have begun the rotor seasoning procedure. The only complaint/concern I have so far is the sound of pad dragging against the rotors. I am confident that I compressed the calipers far enough. I also used pad shims and applied disc brake quite goo to the backs of the pads. Time will tell if I have to pull the pads and use a different adhesive…
 

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awesome, i would have similar pics to post, but ECS still hasnt sent me my kit, cause they havent gotten it back from the machine shop yet. what pad did you use in the rear? zeckhausen racing recommends using a slightly more agressive pad in the rear. looks great!!
 

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Great post & pics.
How do the brakes feel compared to stock?
When I installed the ECS 2 piece A8 kit with Hawk HPS pads it felt like I had to press harder. Once bedded and more importantly once the TyrolSports Caliper Bushings brake feel and modulation was much improved.
Not sure if you've driven it much yet but interesting if you experience similar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
IDriveB5,
Yes, ECS was having difficulty maintaining stock when I ordered as well; Due to a part mix up, I had to wait about a month to get everything I needed. I am not trying to slam them. They are good people and will do their best to make sure your shopping experience is positive. You learn a lot about a company that makes a mistake, acknowledges that it was their mistake, and then goes out of their way to correct the mistake. I would not hesitate to buy from ECS again.

I used PBR/Axxis Deluxe pads all the way around. I was not aware of the recommendation to use a more aggressive pad in the rear.

Kosmas,
You are correct, I have not driven it much (just finished late afternoon and had yard work after that). My brakes feel as if I need to apply slightly more pressure than before. I am not sure if this is a function of needing to complete the bedding process. I need to complete the full rotor seasoning/bedding procedure to make a final determination concerning performance improvement. I believe that I need to perform another brake bleed, my wife was not too thrilled with the brake pedal operator job I had for her… I am the only wrench turner in my local circle of friends.

Did you experience pad to rotor dragging after your job, until completion of the bedding process?
 

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Ooinn99 said:
Did you experience pad to rotor dragging after your job, until completion of the bedding process?
Nope no pad drag but after a few days I had a knocking sound which was the pad knocking on the caliper due to the size of the HPS pad being a fraction small. My mechanics used what they called welding spots and that fixed the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
They look good! Are you going to paint the hats? Cadmium plating does not appear to last, work. I am beginning to see the emergence of rust on the rotor ends (the part I did not paint, on purpose. I did not want to inhibit heat emission from the vents. The hats should not be conducting/radiating heat like the vent areas).

Talk about timing…I just pulled up from finishing the rotor seasoning procedure. I no longer have the blatant pad drag sound. I can hear a faint lathe-like sound whenever I drive next to a concrete barrier. This is my first set of cross-drilled and slotted rotors. Is this sound is normal?

Kosmas, the brake setup does feel like it works better with the front A8 rotors. When I planted my foot on the brake pedal, the car just squatted down and stopped no lockup fadeout or loss of handling. I do feel like I have to push a litter harder. I do not know if this makes sense. I may have to perform another brake bleed.
 

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Ooinn99 said:
I do feel like I have to push a litter harder. I do not know if this makes sense. I may have to perform another brake bleed.
Yep thats what I thought - you can try another brake bleed but I dont think that's the issue. I think because the caliper sits further out it needs more force and with this you feel the flex of the stock rubber caliper bushings.
That's why I recommended the TyrolSports caliper bushings which are made of metal - they'll give you better modulation and because there's less flex it doesnt feel like you need to press as hard.

Good to get other peoples opinions - just to be sure I wasnt imagining things!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Medracr: I am running cross-drilled/slotted/Cadmium plated brembos (OEM diameter for the rear rotors). I do not know what IdriveB5 is running on the rears.

Kosmas: I hear what you are saying, but the physics does not make sense. With the calipers located further out, we have a longer radius from the hub. Therefore, less force should be required to accomplish the same amount of work (braking in this case). On the other hand, with the increased diameter of the rotor, we have also increased the moment of inertia. Hmmm…I will have to dust off the physics book for this one…

ACraig: Thanks.
 

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312mm rotors certainly look better than the stock 288. The Golf V5 / Seat Leon V5 both use a larger vented rotor on the rear and 312mm rotors on the front. Does anyone know if the calipers and rotors swap easilly from the golf /leon to the passat on the rear (Front drive not 4 motion versions ) ?
 
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