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Discussion Starter #1
Bit of backstory: 2001 B5 ATQ with 160k, had sat for about a year waiting until we could afford to get the shredded CV joints replaced. Got that done, car ran great. Oil wasn't too horribly bad so waited a bit to change it (yes very stupid mistake). About 3 months ago (after driving about a week) got the dreaded STOP OIL PRESSURE light and parked the thing. Changed oil & filter, all was beautiful. Another 2 weeks go by, and the light comes on again; checked oil and it's gone. Bought some more, added, and ran the car for 10 minutes; HUGE oil leak coming from above the main crank. That's when I decided to do the PCV system, took a couple weeks until I could afford the whole kit. After 4 fun-filled hours getting everything taken apart (over two more weeks because the lower hose broke, had to order another one) I got it put back together. Started the car, once it warmed up I'm still getting a leak but not as much. Should note here that when I had the PCV off, I stuck my finger into the passenger side VCG and it's caked with gunk.

I know I need to do the VCGs and all the related seals (CCT and cam seals), and when I have the valve covers off I'll clean them as best I can. Been reading a lot the last few days and thinking of doing a flush with kerosene to get the worst of the sludge out. Question is, should I do that BEFORE I do the VCGs or after? The oil in the pan is clean and it's getting up into the crankcase (because it's leaking from the top) so the pickup doesn't seem to be clogged, but that tells me the drain holes in the head are clogged up with gunk.

Any thoughts?
 

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I would take the valve covers off and check to see if your 'drain holes' in the heads really are plugged up.
I've worked on a few V6's that were neglected beyond belief and they had no problems letting the oil drain back down into the lower half of the engine.

Here is one of the heads from my wife's V6 when I rebuilt that engine.
Notice the huge openings in the head casting at the blue arrows. Those openings are where the oil drains back into the lower end. For those to get clogged up is almost unheard of.
Maybe if it had a CCT that got all shredded up, maybe some of those openings have gotten restricted, but even with that, most of the plastic bits would get down into the oil pan.

I would take the valve covers off and check and inspect as I mentioned before. I would then put the valve covers back on with the old gaskets and then flush the engine with kerosene or Sea-Foam. A word of caution, depending on how much Kerosene or Sea-Foam you put in, I would not run the engine RPM's anything past idle.
I've flushed a few engines out using Kerosene / Sea-Foam, I just let the engine run at idle for a few hours. It might be a good idea to change the filter during the flush if your engine has really heavy oil deposits. With a new filter run the engine again for a while.
After flushing the engine I would then take the valve covers off and do gasket refresh with new CCT gaskets with half moon, cam seals and valve cover gaskets.
As long as you're in there, you might as well get it all done at once.



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Discussion Starter #3
Awesome, and thanks for the pic, very helpful! It's going to have to wait a while until I can get the gaskets ordered, and have enough oil/filters on hand to change them at least twice. I'll revert back once I get started on it.
 

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Bought some more, added, and ran the car for 10 minutes; HUGE oil leak coming from above the main crank. Any thoughts?
If the oil is coming from above the front crank pulley, you might have a leak at the front crank seal or the housing that seals it to the block. Repairing the PCV will not fix a leak that has already started, it will prevent leaks from occurring. If it's leaking at the seal, it has to be repaired. While no one would like the idea, if it's the top of the housing leaking, it may be far easier to simply use JB Weld to stop it. I would not use it on a displaced fracture, just a hairline crack or leak.
This is the result of JB Weld on a displaced oil pan fracture, the brown parts are JB Weld, the black is parts of a CCt tensioner:
99022
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Uck. The oil was coming out above the main crank, so I think it really is the VCG. Has to be done anyway, if it's leaking at the actual crank then the car is getting towed away and donated. We don't have the time or $$ to deal with that. The PCV was completely clogged with gunk when I replaced it but there was a small space for air to get through; just raised the pressure enough to blow it out the gaskets, I hope. Won't know until I get it apart in a few weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok guys this old gal just figured out how to post a photo. I need to know WTF the green thing in this picture is. Seems to be part of the PCV system but I can't find a part number (or WTH it does) for the life of me. Thoughts?
99036
 

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It's a check valve, I am pretty sure that's the one for the brake booster.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys. Stupid question, should I replace it or at least get it out of there and inspect it? No issues with brakes but just want to make sure I don't miss anything.
 

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I've never had to replace one in all of the cars I have worked on over the years. My son has over 250K on his without issue, even has the original hoses. I did replace all of the braided cloth and thin hard plastic hoses several years ago.
 
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