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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Found a crack in my breather hose and am planning a PCV overhaul. I'm awful confused by the proliferation of breather hose shapes for every different engine variant. Also, if you start replacing at the cracked hose and keep going, you'd quickly have many dozens of hoses/parts across the whole engine bay.

If you've replaced a 1.8T's PCV system, I'm looking for input on which components need replacing.

Working PCV system overhaul parts list for a 2000 ATW:

For those of you who have done a PCV, which other parts are likely fouled beyond cleaning/recovery, and which can be cleaned and reused?
 

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That is a good list. There are several small check valves that should be in bad shape by now. There should be 3 on the intake side and 1 above the airbox. I would also take a close look at the spider web of vacuum tubes under the intake manifold. 11 year old rubber is usually in bad shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, PZ. I added to the list what I think is the check valve (black/gray) above. I'll see if I can find all 4 you mention. I found a three-way check valve near the suction pump; not sure about that one. Is the "puck" valve near the airbox at the other end of the hard pipe connected to the PCV housing cleanable?

I did replace the braided vacuum lines with gray silicone a few years back (the standard 4 running under and around the intake manifold).
 

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jdts, I'm going to be watching this thread very closely. As you know, I'm in need of doing a PCV overhaul on my ATW too. Please, please, please document the whole process so we ATW guys can have it easy like the AEB and V6 guys do! :thumbup:
 

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As the original owner of my '99 AEB, I strongly suggest you find a reason/excuse to remove your intake manifold. Even for a first timer it is an easy 45' task. It's less than a 1/2 hour once you've done it once. By getting the coolant tank tipped up and out of the way (not disconnected, just unscrewed at the three points to the chassis) and removing the intake mani (5mm hex head bolts at very low torque) you will be able to easily access the entire driver's side of the engine. And with the manifold remove it is a great time to do a thorough throttle body cleaning once removed from the mani.

If you have never removed the TB for cleaning then it is certainly time that you do. You will be amazed at your new-found smooth idle and snap quick starts.

See the Information Forum for DIYs. These 1.8 fours are so easy to access once certain bolt-ons are out of the way.
 

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Several people have cleaned the puck valve. The 2 other check valves are under the intake manifold and can be seen with the coolant tank out of the way.

The ATW is not much harder than the AEB. There is a little more in the way, but it is not too bad. The later the engine, the worse it gets. The last AWMs got pretty cramped with everything that was added.
 

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If you have never removed the TB for cleaning then it is certainly time that you do. You will be amazed at your new-found smooth idle and snap quick starts.
I absolutely agree with this. It was the very first DIY I ever did on my car and, almost miraculously, completely eliminated an intermittent jerky idle that we had been living with for months. The quick pedal response was an unexpected, but very welcome bonus!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks, guys. I just cleaned the throttle body for the 2nd time a couple of weeks back, so good there. Amazing how much gunk builds up in a couple years. If your idle is rough, it's the first place to look; seriously a 15min, satisfying job.

I do plan to remove the intake. Can you remove the IM entirely to get it out of the way? This DIY simply backs it off enough to clean off the old gasket, but I may need more room than that.

Anyone have ideas what size and how many hose clamps I'll need given my parts list (3 come with the kit)?

TM, I'll try to document with some photos, but I've got quite a few things on my plate planned for that day (including thermostat/coolant flush/heater core flush, injector seals, spark plugs, and oil cooler gasket). Here are the DIY's I'm working from:

Any classics I'm missing?

One loose end I can't quite sort: the seals on the ATW injectors, which apparently come in not one but two (or three?) sizes. Any clues? EKTA illustration 133-50 has got me confused (below). Where is seal 8, and why is 6A not mentioned? Thoughts on the inscrutable ATW round seal "remarks"?

 

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I've read threads on their being 2 and/or 3 fuel injection seals. I bought a set of seals that have the 7.5 x 3.53 and the 9.3 x 2.62 rings; just haven't gotten around to installing them on my ATW. Need to do it along with the PCV stuff under the intake manifold real soon.

I'm just hoping there's two seals (one small, one large) on the injectors when I pull everything apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks atsffan. Anyone actually had a look at the ATW injectors? Any clue about the large round seal (#8 in the EKTA photo above)?
 

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I've read they had 3 seals. I think it was AtomicAlex who mentioned it. She pulled her manifold off to get to the PCV. I have never had to pull a manifold, but I have gotten pretty good at using long screwdrivers to remove the clamps. Then I cut through the rubber T and start pulling everything out.
 

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Several people have cleaned the puck valve. The 2 other check valves are under the intake manifold and can be seen with the coolant tank out of the way.

The ATW is not much harder than the AEB. There is a little more in the way, but it is not too bad. The later the engine, the worse it gets. The last AWMs got pretty cramped with everything that was added.
I have a AWM and I'm in need of a PCV overhaul.... and it looks cramped with all that is added.
 

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I've read they had 3 seals. I think it was AtomicAlex who mentioned it. She pulled her manifold off to get to the PCV. I have never had to pull a manifold, but I have gotten pretty good at using long screwdrivers to remove the clamps. Then I cut through the rubber T and start pulling everything out.
Yeah, I think it was Atomicalex too that mentioned 3 seals.
 

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... I have never had to pull a manifold, but I have gotten pretty good at using long screwdrivers to remove the clamps...
It is an easy job. It is much easier if you invest in a set of extended, metric, ball-tipped hex head sockets, 3/8" drive. Taking the mani off without hex sockets is no big deal. A standard hex key will work. The bolts are torqued quite lite. However, it is impossible to properly torque the 11 or so mani bolts without an extended ball-tipped hex socket - impossible. As mentioned earlier, the retorque spec is quite lite - IIRC something less than what the torque spec is when installing spark plugs.

Extended ball-tipped hex socket set will be used all over this car. Removing the throtle body for cleaning is a breeze as opposed to using a hex key 1/8th turn at a time, blindly, hand jambed for the lower two hex bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks all for the input. I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on my PCV (+assoc.) parts order, but still would love to know:

  • Hose clamp diameters for PCV parts, Puck valve, black/gray check-valves, etc.
  • Whether the "fat #8" injector o-ring on an ATW actually exists (and can/should be changed).
  • Whether I should or need to completely remove the IM to get access to the PCV hoses, or if I just leave some hoses attached and move it outboard.
  • Whether this expensive check valve on an ATW with three nipples, above the suction pump, should be considered for replacing.
Now off to find some ball head hex sockets (don't you love an excuse to shop for tools?).
 
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