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When I got hit once, the axle beam got bent and the left wheel was way off. The body shop had to get some special machine to pull it back in place. I didn't get to see the machine so I've no idea of what it was. But you can check with a body shop and see if they could do something like that. It might cost a lot though.
 

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Definitively no controlled camber adjustment on FWD rears. If you are looking for better cornering, consider a torsion bar stiffener/anti-roll bar. There are a few for sale in classifieds... :whistle:


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· I had a steering knuckle in my shed. Really!
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You can use shims, but they put the rotor off line with the caliper so the adjustment is very little.

Only total toe is truly adjustable with the rear torsion beam (sliding the whole assembly back and forth to equalize the toe).
 

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You can use shims, but they put the rotor off line with the caliper so the adjustment is very little.

Only total toe is truly adjustable with the rear torsion beam (sliding the whole assembly back and forth to equalize the toe).
Where do the shims go to adjust camber? My car (1999 1.8T FWD) came lowered, we are going through tires like crazy (worn through on the inside). Have adjustable upper control arms for front standing by, but need some more details for the rear for the alignment shop. Result of shims is caliper/rotor not aligned, and pads wear uneven and need to changed more often?
 

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Your camber adjustment is off after lowering? How low did you go?

I lowered about 1.5" on Eibach springs and the rear wasn't affected. The front is at its extremes for caster and slightly off with toe, nothing I'm concerned about (like 0.02 degrees off.) I verified that with an alignment check after I went off the road and thought I bent the ream beam, all was in spec.
 

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Not even sure why lowering on a solid beam rear axle changes the camber (need to visualize better and think it through).
Putting 'shims' in apparently changes the also the angle of the rotor relative to the brake caliper (again: need to visualize why they are not both effected the same way), so either the caliper needs a shim too, or just accept a uneven (top to bottom) wear of the pads. Still cheaper than buying new tires every 10k miles.
 

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The rear beam does not really change camber when lowered, if it does, it is marginally different. The shims would go behind the axle stubs that mount to the beam. The problem is that the brake carriers also mount on the beam, not the axle stubs. I have heard of 1-2 people who put shims in and they did not report brake issues, but I have not seen any long term followup. I would worry about the caliper or piston binding due to the different angle. Eventually the pad would wear, but I see the potential for binding to be more of an issue. I don't know how much the piston angle could be off before it would bind.
 
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