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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

I've just taken my car for the MOT, and it failed on the old favourite CV joint boot,
and n/s rear door won't open.
When I operate the central locking from the key or the button on the drivers door, the other 3 doors work fine, and you can hear the actuators operating, but nothing from the n/s rear.
If I pull the lever inside, the knob lifts, but goes back down as soon as I let go of the handle.
I have checked the loom at the door pillar, and there are no damaged or broken wires.

Can I get the door card off with the door shut, and if I do, can I get to the actuator once it's off ?
Basically, how am I going to get the door open?

Thanks everyone
 

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My rear driver side door is about to have the same problem. Sometimes it won't open from outside and/or inside when unlocked. I have to lock and then unlock again for the door to open.

I suspect there will come a day when I will not be able to open the door either from inside or outside.

Can someone please advise how to fix this issue if door doesn't open?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I've managed to get the door panel off, which was a bit of a struggle, but now I need to get the metal inner door panel off, but that still doesn't solve the problem of how to open the door :/

Anyone ?
 

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spadders and mikefl,
If the door won't unlock, you could try briefly connecting 12V to the lock/unlock motor. (PM me if you would like to try this)

Some possible causes.

1. Corroded splice/s in floor harness.
Repair splices.
NOTE: The car in this DIY is UK RHD, this doesn’t matter, the CCM is always on LHS.
VW Passat CCM harness repair | HeadFUZZ

This thread attempts to bring together all the problems regarding water ingress and their solutions.
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/230249-water-ingress-solutions.html

2. Broken wire or corroded connector inside boot between door and pillar.
Repair.

3. Faulty door lock module.
Repair or replace.

Front Door Lock (Rear doors are similar)
You should lower the window into the service position (2"-3" open) before you disconnect the battery.
No need to remove the window completely, just tape it up securely. (Put paper/plastic over top of door to protect paint)
taligentx.com: Passat - Door Lock Mechanism Repair

All Doors
Also read this thread: (Puddle light does not come on)
Stupid door Switch!! $3 Fix!!! - TDIClub Forums
 

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Glad I was able to help you unlock the door.

From what you said in your last PM, it seems there might be a bad solder joint where the socket connects to the PCB in the DLM.
A solder joint can appear to be good when it isn't, it could also be a faulty lock motor but I think that is rare. See the links in post #4.
 

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I am having the exact same (almost) issue. The rear door lock doesn't want to come unlocked. Neither using the electric locks nor pulling up on it. I even tried some pliers, but it is totally stuck in the locked position. I don't believe I can get the door panel off unless I can get that door open. Really need some expert help here! This is a 1998 passat.
 

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Have you tried the remote ?
Have you tried the button on the door ?
Have you tried the button on the driver door ?
Have you tried the key in the driver door ?
Scan the CCM with VCDS and post the codes.

It looks like you will have to take the inside panel off the door, this can be done.
 

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Hi. Could you share some info about the method above?
That was 5 years ago, and is not usually practical.

I suggest you start a new thread of your own, with details of your car, and what has been done, include a scan at least the CCM.
You could include a link to this thread if you think it would help.
 

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That was 5 years ago, and is not usually practical.

I suggest you start a new thread of your own, with details of your car, and what has been done, include a scan at least the CCM.
You could include a link to this thread if you think it would help.
That was 5 years ago, and is not usually practical.

I suggest you start a new thread of your own, with details of your car, and what has been done, include a scan at least the CCM.
You could include a link to this thread if you think it would help.
Hi. I was thinking that you still have the archive with the PM that you have sent to spadders and mikefl.
My problem is the same related with the door actuator on VW Passat 2003. The wires in the door rubber boot are broken and the car has the left rear door locked. If i know where to apply the 12 V maybe i manage to onlock the door and make the repairs.
 

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Here is the conversation.

If you attempt this, exercise EXTREME CAUTION !!!

To power the rear door lock motor:
Disconnect plug from the DCM (Window Motor),
Connect negative to pin T18(a or b)/7 (Black/Blue wire) in the plug, briefly (about 1 second) connect positive to pin T18(a or b)/17 (Black/Grey wire).
If this doesn't work, try the opposite polarity. (one way should lock the other polarity should unlock)
The voltage must be connected to the wires, NOT the DCM.
Make sure to connect only to the correct wires.
Regards
Tom

Hi Tom,
No problem, i know how it is, thanks for getting back to me anyway,
you wouldn't happen to have a photo or diagram of the layout of the plug would you?
How close together are the pins? If i touched one of the others am I going to damage anything?
Thanks again
Anon

Hello Anon,
I don't have any useful pic to post at the moment, it is shown in the wiring diagrams in service manuals.
The pins are not very close to each other. If you connect 12V to other pins you could damage the DLM PCB, micro switches, and/or wiring, be careful.
Let me know how it goes.
Tom

Hi Tom,
You little beauty !! Finally got it open. 👍
Once I got the plug out, (and my LED torch in there) I found the pins, they are directly opposite each other.
First couple of times I tried, nothing happened, but persevered and reversed the cables and it started to make a noise,
after quite a few attempts, the mechanism moved and unlocked the door.
I can't tell you how relieved I am.
I've left the window loom disconnected, and I can manually lock/unlock the door now.
Just got to strip it out now and see if the door actuator is repairable or not.

Thanks again for your help, I'll sleep easier tonight I can tell you.
 

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Many thanks for this usefull information. I will try it and reply. Just to be sure. The plug for the DCM is accesible after removing the inner face of the door?
 

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Here is the conversation.

If you attempt this, exercise EXTREME CAUTION !!!

To power the rear door lock motor:
Disconnect plug from the DCM (Window Motor),
Connect negative to pin T18(a or b)/7 (Black/Blue wire) in the plug, briefly (about 1 second) connect positive to pin T18(a or b)/17 (Black/Grey wire).
If this doesn't work, try the opposite polarity. (one way should lock the other polarity should unlock)
The voltage must be connected to the wires, NOT the DCM.
Make sure to connect only to the correct wires.
Regards
Tom

Hi Tom,
No problem, i know how it is, thanks for getting back to me anyway,
you wouldn't happen to have a photo or diagram of the layout of the plug would you?
How close together are the pins? If i touched one of the others am I going to damage anything?
Thanks again
Anon

Hello Anon,
I don't have any useful pic to post at the moment, it is shown in the wiring diagrams in service manuals.
The pins are not very close to each other. If you connect 12V to other pins you could damage the DLM PCB, micro switches, and/or wiring, be careful.
Let me know how it goes.
Tom

Hi Tom,
You little beauty !! Finally got it open. 👍
Once I got the plug out, (and my LED torch in there) I found the pins, they are directly opposite each other.
First couple of times I tried, nothing happened, but persevered and reversed the cables and it started to make a noise,
after quite a few attempts, the mechanism moved and unlocked the door.
I can't tell you how relieved I am.
I've left the window loom disconnected, and I can manually lock/unlock the door now.
Just got to strip it out now and see if the door actuator is repairable or not.

Thanks again for your help, I'll sleep easier tonight I can tell you.
Hi. Your solution is good. I have accesed the conector for the window motor and plugged the wires in the correct location.
I used a switch to control the time.
And I can hear the actuator doing some work on both polarities.
 

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Is the childproof lock set to on ?
Have you tried the outside door handle, after running the lock motor to each end ?
 

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No child lock as far as I remember. I tried from outside but it is still locked. I will try to warm up the area as it seems that the actuator works better when is hot outside.
 

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Here are a couple of videos you might find helpful..

How to open a VW door that won't open.
[video=youtube;Fy3KbKkAZZ0]

Why your VW door won't open.
[video=youtube;YGyb9aSoIFA]
 

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Here are a couple of videos you might find helpful..

How to open a VW door that won't open.
[video=youtube;Fy3KbKkAZZ0]

Why your VW door won't open.
[video=youtube;YGyb9aSoIFA]
Hi. Thank you for the info.
I manage to solve the problem.
I used your solution but the actuator had as some issues and needed some help. I had to drill a hole with a 48 mm HSS hole drill. I have found this additional info on a YouTube video. The hole give you acces to see and help the mechanism linked with the actuator.
 

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The hole will not be visible after the door card is reinstalled. I will try to make a sketch.
See the comment from Peter Cross.
I have used a smaller hole drill than he recommends but it was enough.

 
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