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They look like ro/ws ro/sw to me. They will ultimately end up on the threaded connection under the relays, but I am working to find out which studs.
 

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If those are off the fender harness on the engine side, they probably go to the fan controller (or what ever it is) under the driver's side frame horn. Here is a pic, you can see it on the left under the frame. You can reach it with the belly pan off.
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Discussion Starter #143
Those 2 wires run under the Intercooler onto 2 posts. The ro/ws wire runs the length of the harness, the ro/bl is spliced and one runs under the intercooler, the other to the radiator fan.

I ran tests on the alternator, battery and ground, and all were 12.10+-.02 key off

Reinstalled the harness and began working on reinstalling the terminal relays.

Ran some continuity tests on the coolant fan wire clusters. Traced down 3 of the electectrical connectors.

All passed in all pertinent pins. Yet I found the ground wire on the radiator fan is corroded right at the connection and bare wire is exposed. Spent the remainder of the evening trying to get that off. No luck yet, and the clip at the bottom snapped.

Having that ground shorted out could very have been the culprit preventing power.

The cv axle, I cut the remainder of the boot off. Just the inner was cracked. Inside the joint was still heavily greased and all the bearing ran smooth and fluid. I'm thinking getting the boot repair kit, and reusing the stock axle until I can replace both front/left side.
 

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The battery is low and should be fully charged, leaving it at a low charge will damage the battery.
You need to stop messing with things that are not causing the problem, and concentrate on fixing the no start problem. It is likely you are introducing new faults.
When checking wiring, if you push a probe into a female connector, it is likely to expand the contact, making it a loose connection.
This is likely to have happened when you first checked the ESS.
 

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So I bought the car and I noticed the breather hose was damaged. I replaced it and then the
engine speed sensor went out. It threw the check engine light on and I read the code with
my OBD2. (What was the Code ?) That was replaced and then the car had trouble starting
unless I wiggled the connector that I thought was the engine speed sensor electrical
connection. (What connection was it ?)
In removing the speed sensor I broke the voltage regulator clip and replace the alternator.
I was leaving McDonald's and as I begin to accelerate the car died. The check engine light
came back on and after wiggling that electrical connection (Which connection ?) it started
yet the check engine light remained on and it was behaving sluggish.
I drove it home and parked it. I remove the CV axle and that was the extent of what I had
done with it.
I then remove the wiring harness and repaired the broken and corroded wires.
(It is not possible to be sure, but this was probably the only electrical problem when you started working on it.)
I replaced the fuel pump connector as the Locking pin was destroyed.
I bought brand new coils and spark plugs and did an oil change. I did add fuel injector
cleaner into my gas tank and filled it up with 91 octane premium fuel.
That is what happened up until I got that code for low-voltage. I haven't done anything else
besides just look over things.
Removing the harness to inspect the wires and just looking into the vehicle.

That is the extent of everything up to this point. (You have also reported that you replaced fuses and at least one relay, and had other fault codes.)
Those 2 wires run under the Intercooler onto 2 posts. The ro/ws wire runs the length of the harness, the ro/bl is spliced and one runs under the intercooler, the other to the radiator fan.
I ran tests on the alternator, battery and ground, and all were 12.10+-.02 key off
Reinstalled the harness and began working on reinstalling the terminal relays.
Ran some continuity tests on the coolant fan wire clusters. Traced down 3 of the electectrical connectors.
All passed in all pertinent pins. Yet I found the ground wire on the radiator fan is corroded right at the connection and bare wire is exposed. Spent the remainder of the evening trying to get that off. No luck yet, and the clip at the bottom snapped.
Having that ground shorted out could very have been the culprit preventing power.
The cv axle, I cut the remainder of the boot off. Just the inner was cracked. Inside the joint was still heavily greased and all the bearing ran smooth and fluid. I'm thinking getting the boot repair kit, and reusing the stock axle until I can replace both front/left side.
https://www.passatworld.com/d2/attachments/25/25016-d1e6b3bab98027d29087f20ab3d022a4.jpg

The wires in you pic appear to be 2 Ro/Sw (Red/Black) and one Ro/Ws (Red/White).
There are 2 wires connected to the fan,
One Br (Brown) connected to ground.
One Ro/Sw to the ‘fan low speed resistor’, and continues on to the high speed fan relay.

One Ro/Ws (Red/White) wire connects to the other end of the ‘fan low speed resistor’.

Why are you messing with these wires, without any indication of a fan fault ?
 

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Tom, I think it was a part of him splitting the loom to access other wires, but I could be wrong.

101604
 

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Discussion Starter #147 (Edited)
The battery is brand new.

Yes those are the two wires with the eyelets.

The position of the posts though is horizontal, those are vertical in the diagram. In diagram bottom is the front of the car.

And the fan wire is exposed right at the connection. To remove the fan do I need to remove the entire radiator?

I've checked the contuinity of all wires up to the electrical connections, and the 2 groups of wires I can check have continuity. It's the fan I cannot get to.

Unable get loose the fan, I opened the front in sp, removed the intercooler and found oil in the lower portion of the intake.

I'm not destroying this car. It's old and was neglected. It ran after being started, for a day. The new oil, the ess, the plugs and coils.

I worried I may have skipped timing, or blew a gasket. That was a Hindsight as the car ran. Then the issue was the no start.

There is an amount of buildup behind the fuel pump I noticed in a previous post(Pic) . Finding this fresh oil in the intake leads me to believe it had a leak and finally blew.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Update :

No more posts related to the no start issue.

This has gone into a new category all together.

I appreciate the time you've all given

I will use my resources, and this forum. Should a new issue arise, I will create a post. Yet the amount of info provided through this forum should suffice my diy project.

Again thank you all for the input and time
 

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Some oil in the intercooler lines is normal. You can see (in the 2nd picture) the burnt insulation from the wires to the fan arcing.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
Some oil in the intercooler lines is normal. You can see (in the 2nd picture) the burnt insulation from the wires to the fan arcing.
I'm going to replace the gaskets and whatever seals I see corrupted. Fresh start for the new girl.
 

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Before you start replacing seals and gaskets I would suggest just putting everything back together and solving the no start issue.

You can focus on freshening everything up after you get it running and driving.

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Agreed. That oil is likely just condensed vapor build up over the life of the car. It adds up. If you don’t have more than a tablespoon or so, nothing to worry about.


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Discussion Starter #153
I have it all back in. Took the intake hoses off and cleaned them off. If there is a leak will be easier to identify without the bulldup. Will acquire a new fan and motor and compete the test in the last wire in the right fender loom.

Hopefully the loose wire has been touched on and replaced.
 

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The battery is brand new.

And the fan wire is exposed right at the connection. To remove the fan do I need to remove the entire radiator?
I know the battery is new, but it is low and if you don't charge it soon, it will be damaged.
Batteries deteriorate rapidly while sitting with low charge.

The fan can be removed without removing anything else, there is one screw and a latch that you pry to allow the fan body to be rotated.
The fan can't prevent the engine from starting. The more things you take apart, the greater the chance of causing more faults.
The fuel pump, 4 coil packs and the alternator were all working until you got to them. The ESS and fan were probably OK also.

As you won't do the requested tests, and won't answer my questions, I can't help you.
 
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