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Discussion Starter #121
The green connector I mentioned or the actual sensor? I purchased a new sensor from O'Reilly a day before this happened. I purchased the part for what I thought I had. A 2003 passat. Same part number for my car and the 2003 so it's not the wrong one.
 

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Discussion Starter #122
Thanks for following along still. I didn't have access to a multimeter until yesterday.

I've looked through the bentley, and I'm not finding the wiring diagram for that connector.

Basically just follow the wire and check for corrosion?
 

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Corrosion, cuts, broken insulation, any damage at all. You will need to check it back to the plug at the ECU. The Bentley has it, but it can be overwhelming to try to find it. I needed a magnifying glass to read it.
 

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You are looking for the Ohms, not voltage. The Ohms measures resistance in a wire, so one prong at the beginning and one at the other end. I'd have to look it up as I can't remember, but I think 1 is good, 0 is bad.
That connector is not for the fan, it's the tan one going to the fan and it should not affect starting. I don't recall where they go, I would have to look on my car and I can't do much of anything right now due to back pain.
Here is a pic of the wiring harness that the green plug attaches to (the smaller top harness in the pic). It goes through the fender and enters the cabin behind the fender liner. I just swapped mine out sometime early this year (I think). I'll also add a pic of the fan, so you can see the wiring.
101559


Fan:
101560
 

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Discussion Starter #126 (Edited)
I looked back into my Chilton, and I will try the actual connector.

Its hard to trace that wire. Or any with the diagram. In time yes. Yet I'm a week into electrical basics.

I appreciate your feedback

Your photos just appeared, seeing what it looks like, I know now
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Is there a name for that particular harness? I'm having a tough time getting it out of the bay, and it looks like I need to remove all the terminal pillars behind the fuse box
 

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Thanks for following along still. I didn't have access to a multimeter until yesterday.
Started testing coils, and couldn't get a reading from my battery. Moving the proves I'd get brief 13-18v readings, but would disappear as soon as they would appear.
I'm confused about how you measured voltages 21 days ago, but just got a meter yesterday?
 

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Discussion Starter #129
My reading were all over the place.

My multimeter had a blown fuse
 

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Discussion Starter #130 (Edited)
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2

Friday, 20 November 2020, 11:52:35.





Chassis Type: 3B - VW Passat B5

Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,35,36,37,46,47,55,56,57,58,75,76,77



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!

Controller: 4B0 906 018 BQ

Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003

Coding: 16551

Shop #: WSC 05315

VCID: 719556C728B1

No fault code found.

Readiness: 0110 1101



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.LBL

Controller: 3B0 927 156 AA

Component: AG5 01V 1.8l5VT USA 1010

Coding: 00104

Shop #: WSC 00028

VCID: 65BD3297EC79

No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-614-111-ASR.LBL

Controller: 3B0 614 111

Component: ABS/ASR 5.3 FRONT D00

Coding: 00021

Shop #: WSC 00028

VCID: D3D97C4F32ED

No fault code found.

Still no start. And taking that small harness out, there are 2 eye connectors leading underneath. One has 2 wires, the other is a single wire. What is that called that it connects to? Want to make sure I get them back on correctly.


Fuel pump is my thought, although I smell fuel when I juts double checked my plug gaps.
 

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Discussion Starter #131
Opened the fuel pump housing, and the lower portion was just floating
 

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Discussion Starter #132
I don't know.

No codes.

Sparse feedback.

Thank you for your time
 

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Sorry, but your posts are not making much sense. "Lower portion was just floating"(??) "I don't know", "Sparse feedback". Being really clear is the key to forum help.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Sorry, but your posts are not making much sense. "Lower portion was just floating"(??) "I don't know", "Sparse feedback". Being really clear is the key to forum help.
Feedback is appreciated. Yet if your here, posting as an advisor, and are not aware that the fuel pump is split into two sections, then perhaps we should compare notes.
And should you inspect the fuel pump itself, and notice that the lower portion is not secured in, and floating, would be self explanatory.

I've moved past that and replaced the fuel pump.

The current topic was/is how do I get to the rest of this wiring harness?

Through the fender, behind the other 2 relay pillars is the answer.

Maybe understand when you first began to explore and partake in what I am, and how much information you did not posses.
Back to work on removing this harness to repair and inspect it this evening.
 

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Yes. that harness comes in through the fender at the upper hole and most of it goes to the back aux relay panel. It was a real hassle to swap as I did it years after I pulled the dash and swapped the dash harness in that same photo.
If you zoom in on the picture of the harness, you see the single green wire from the connector runs into a gray and pink connector on the far right.
As far as I can remember, the ESS connector is on the firewall behind the coolant tank. I thought those connectors ran into the engine harness right near the coolant tank. I may be able to look under the hood of my car and check, but I can't look under the dash in my condition. I do know that I dropped the primary relay panel (2 bolts or nuts) and the fuse panel and pulled that part of the harness down and stuck it under/behind the clutch or brake pedal to be able to pull the upper fender harness out and swap the correct one in it's place. I had the left the V6 fender harness in place when I did the motor swap and it would not run the electric fan.
 

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Discussion Starter #136 (Edited)
I got it out, and ran a resistance test through all the connectors and it's all good. No other bad looking wires. Yet I got the same low voltage code. 1602

Except this one was 18010.

I think the ecu is bad. Would make sense since the 40 fuse in the plenum was blown
 

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I got it out, and ran a resistance test through all the connectors and it's all good. No other bad looking wires. Yet I got the same low voltage code. 1602

Except this one was 18010.

I think the ecu is bad. Would make sense since the 40 fuse in the plenum was blown
18010/P1602/005634 - Power Supply B+ Terminal 30: Voltage too Low

I am happy to help anyone who wants help to fix a car, but I have no interest in helping anyone to destroy one.

The fuel pump and the ECU were working fine before you got to them, the ESS was likely fine to,
the harness you have just removed was fine to, with the possibility of a fault in one or two wires. There was absolutely no good reason to remove that harness.
You are working on sensitive electrical circuits, with no idea of how to use a multi-meter, and didn't bother to look it up on youtube.
You don't listen to good advice or reply to questions, and you complain about sparse feedback.

Well that's it for me I have had enough of your nonsense.
I hope you get it fixed, but the way you are going I very much doubt it.
 

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@Grnpl80 Please take what we are saying as constructive criticism. We're really trying hard (maybe too hard) to help you, but you have to follow instruction. You also need to make sure any testing equipment you have is in proper working order and know how to use them as it applies to specific tests.

Multiple posts within minutes of the previous ones makes it hard to follow. Get all your thoughts together and post one time.

Continuing to futz with things that people are not giving you direction on can lead to continued headaches and mask the initial problem. Yes, the fuel pump may be some sort of an issue, but no pics
of it make it hard to visualize.

Let’s see if I was able to summarize everything you have done and codes you have received thus far. Add to it if you need to. This whole thread has become so disjointed, it’s difficult to figure out what still needs to be addressed.

2001 Passat B5 1.8T AUG

16705/P0321/000801 - Ross-Tech Wiki
16706/P0322/000802 - Ross-Tech Wiki
17072/P0688/001672 - Ross-Tech Wiki

P0351-P0354 Is ignition coil primary/secondary circuit malfunction. Last digit of the code is the cyl #.
Possible causes:
  • Faulty Ignition Coil
  • Ignition Coil harness is open or shorted
  • Ignition Coil circuit poor electrical connection
  • Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

17072/P0688/001672 - Ross-Tech Wiki
18010/P1602/005634 - Ross-Tech Wiki
17925/P1517 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Measure DC voltage at these points to get a baseline.
  • Battery: negative terminal to positive terminal (pic of multimeter display helps)
  • Positive battery terminal to chassis ground (should be same result as above)
  • Alternator power terminal (large wire on a stud) to chassis ground (should be same result as above)

Fuses:
Check all fuses by pulling and inspecting visually. ANY signs of discoloration or warping, replace.
When checking for voltage at the fuses, check both sides of the fuse (implied, but not readily apparent to those that aren’t familiar with the process). Positive lead on the fuse, negative lead to a ground point.

Replaced:
  • #29 fuse
  • 40a fuse in ECU box
  • ECU relay
  • Fuel pump plug
  • Fuel pump
  • Engine speed sensor
  • Coil packs
  • Coil pack connectors
  • Spark Plugs

Check wiring at the ESS connector. Replace plug on harness side as corrective measure.
Probe each wire on the car side behind the ESS plug and its corresponding pin on the ECU plug (unplug it from the ECU to test at the pin). You are testing for continuity/Ohms. Should be almost 0Ω.

Still no start. And taking that small harness out, there are 2 eye connectors leading underneath. One has 2 wires, the other is a single wire. What is that called that it connects to? Want to make sure I get them back on correctly.
Are they brown? They are grounds. They need to be grounded to a chassis stud.

And for god sakes, just stick the wheel end of the axle back in and hand tighten the center bolt as best you can so you can at least roll the car to a better spot for access to the fuses. That is, if you haven’t gotten the replacement axle yet.
 
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Discussion Starter #139 (Edited)
The image is the two wires I was questioning. I've gone through the wiring diagram time and again and I don't see ro/ws bl/ro wire anywhere
I haven't been able to work for 4 months.
I spend all my time on this.
I don't have alot of experience nor tools. And my funds are limited.

I'm going through your list today Vag and going to run those tests.

I don't know what else to do, I'm desperate to find this problem yesterday, so I can stop posting here with my novice experience and driving readers batshit with anxiety.

What it is for the readers is 10 fold on my end, and my posts, are done as I am performing the tests and reporting findings as they happen. And having no responses for sometimes days at a time, I don't have time to sit and wait. It's not anyone's responsibility I understand, the time is appreciated as I try and express as often as possible. Yet I'm rushed to resolve this for my personal safety is and has been on the line for months.
 

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Discussion Starter #140
So I bought the car and I noticed the breather hose was damaged. I replaced it and then the engine speed sensor went out. It threw the check engine light on and I read the code with my OBD2. That was replaced and then the car had trouble starting unless I wiggled the connector that I thought was the engine speed sensor electrical connection. In removing the speed sensor I broke the voltage regulator clip and replace the alternator. I was leaving McDonald's and as I begin to accelerate the car died. The check engine light came back on and after wiggling that electrical connection it started yet the check engine light remained on and it was behaving sluggish. I drove it home and parked it. I remove the CV axle and that was the extent of what I had done with it. I then remove the wiring harness and repaired the broken and corroded wires. I replaced the fuel pump connector as the Locking pin was destroyed. I bought brand new coils and spark plugs and did an oil change. I did add fuel injector cleaner into my gas tank and filled it up with 91 octane premium fuel. That is what happened up until I got that code for low-voltage. I haven't done anything else besides just look over things. Removing the harness to inspect the wires and just looking into the vehicle.

That is the extent of everything up to this point
 
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