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Its been a while since I've gone for a full wax, and even after cleaning, you can tell that the paint needs some rejuvenation. I have the Einzsett Metallic polish, but I need something (dare I say) stronger? Should I look to the Einzsett Paint polish or something like such? I have the rest of the Einzsett kit, but I feel I should do all I can to clean up the paintjob before I throw a coat of wax on there and pretend that nothing happened. I gotta do the same on my other car too, which has an even worse lookin' paintjob. :oops: Thanks in advance.
 

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Clay bar that bad boy. Or use Safecut (a wax shop product) or consider 1 of the professional grade 3M cleaner polishes.
 

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yup yup, clay it. after you wash, before you wax.
that will eliminate all the "fallout". we usually would clay it with some sort of "detail" spray, like the spray on paint gloss stuff.
And dont drop the clay on the ground ! ! :p
 

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Clay will not restore the gloss to paint. Where on earth did you guys get that idea from? Move up a grade on the Einszett polish to try and restore the gloss, though even paint polish is quite mild.
 

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Clay it first to "pull" the contaminants out of the paint .. then use whichever 1Z polish that does the job for you. Best results will be with a R/A buffer if you have one ..

Once clayed and polished .. if you have Glanz wax it is an excellent choise.

A little bit of polishing and a good sealant will get you this ..

 

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I've tried goo remover to do lazy man's clay on the rear bumper and it actually works better than the clay method. Easy on and easy off, and coat of wax after will do wonders.....

Just make sure to use soft cloth with goo remover.
 

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I'd bet you $5 that if you used clay after your goo remover method the clay would com away black from the stuff that was left behind. It dosn't work like any solvent does and get things off of what you might think is completely clean paint.

Trust me, the goo remover isn't getting it all.
 

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PASSAT2001.5 said:
I've tried goo remover to do lazy man's clay on the rear bumper and it actually works better than the clay method. Easy on and easy off, and coat of wax after will do wonders.....

Just make sure to use soft cloth with goo remover.
Whats that?? Goo Gone?
 

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I'd have to try that next time too see if goo remover leaves anything behind.

I usually feel with back of my hand to see if the surface is smooth after the clay, and I've also tried the same method with the goo remover and achieved same result.

All the road goo/tard/oil/grease does come off and adheres to the cloth instead. In normal method, clay will eat up all the goo, but the cloth serves as similar function. Just make sure to fold the cloth surface per fender/side.

Like I said, goo remover is a lazy man's clay, and will work better than wax alone. Next time around, I will take your advice and try the clay after to see if clay will pick up any more goo.
 

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Jesstzn said:
Whats that?? Goo Gone?

I just checked and the can says " Goof Off, Ultimate Remover"

I picked it up from home depot. This product was made for household use, like removing fresh paint, oil, grease, tard, pen/pencil/crayon marks off wood floor or table tops. Safe on furniture clear coats.
 

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Clay does take off a lot of contaminants.
Clay bars take a lot of the surface "fall out" off of your clear coat, even over spray comes off in some instances with clay. Claying a car is a normal step in detailing. now given, it isnt the only step by far, in fact its only the begining...but anyone who has used a clay bar properly knows that it removes quite a bit of the build up a clear coat will collect in an every day environment. Before paying someone 200 bucks with all the equipment to detail the car professionally, I would still recommend washing it, claying it, and waxing it, and see how it looks / feels. This being done on a regular basis, will prevent you from ever having to have it buffed out. Its preventative maintenance. You can smear as much expensive wax or polish as you want, but its not going to get to the clear coat if you dont strip all the old wax and build up off first... with clay.
If you dont clay it, you'll be waxing all the shit on top of your clear coat.
 

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RAH said:
Clay, then 3M clear coat safe rubbing compound, then polish and wax :thumbup:
Rubbing compound is the enemy.

Give it a good Dawn wash and clay that sucker. Then use 1Z Paint Polish (second down from Metallic I believe) - or even try to use Metallic if you think the paint is ok. Then Glanz it.
 

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RL331 said:
RAH said:
Clay, then 3M clear coat safe rubbing compound, then polish and wax :thumbup:
Rubbing compound is the enemy.

Give it a good Dawn wash and clay that sucker. Then use 1Z Paint Polish (second down from Metallic I believe) - or even try to use Metallic if you think the paint is ok. Then Glanz it.

I agree.. rubbing compound is a last resort. Always start with the least aggressive product first to see if it will do the job.
 

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Dawn is also the enemy. You might want to have a discussion with atomicalex (one of our resident chemical tribologists) about the effects of dawn on paint. As I recall she had some very good arguments why it should never ever touch your car.

Also, used properly, rubbing compounds are not the enemy, unfortunately most people don't know how to use them. Einszett polish comes in four grades. From most aggressive to least aggressive, they are:

Ultra Paint Polish
Paint Polish
Metallic Paint Polish
Express Polish

Express polish isn't really a polish at all, it's more of a cleaner/glaze and it won't really take out any inperfections. 3M makes a very good line of professional grade polishes and compounds, in order they are:

3M Perfect-It III Extra Cut Rubbing Compound
3M Imperial Micro Finishing Medium Cut Rubbing Compound
3M Perfect-It II Fine Cut Rubbing Compound
3M Perfect-It III Machine Glaze (equiv to Swirl Mark Remover, also availabe for hand applied application)

Personally, I prefer the 3M system to the Einszett system because it's easier to work the 3M products with a buffer. Of course that is what the 3M products were made to be used with so it's little wonder they work well with a machine. To get out some paint defects you have to use rubbing compound or aggressive polish, things like oxidation, acid etching/waterspots etc. Just be sure about what you're doing, read up on all the techniques used in working with a type of product, and startslowly on a small area. Don't jump right into working the middle of the hood.

And as always, here's putting my money where my mouth is:

The car had over 50k miles on that paint when I took this picture:


Here's a closeup:
 

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RL331 and Jesstzn, Rubbing compound is NOT the enemy. I think you guys think of the brown stuff in a tub which looks like sand paper :lol: . 3M rubbing compound is clear coat safe and it's just a way to take off the contaminants from the vehicle, just like clay bar. By the way, the last thing i would do is to give a car a bath with DAWN soap!!!!. Talk to any detailers, it is to abrasive of a soap. The only thing that i made a mistake on is clay bar THEN 3M, you can do either or :wink: .
 

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A) What I am saying is don't jump right to rubbing compound when a light polish will do the job. Its like getting a 5 ton truck to haul a pail of gravel. Use the least invasive first then step up if its not doing the job.

By going more abrasive first your putting yourself in a situation where your needing to polish out hazing from the compound and adding an extra step.

As far as the Dawn wash is concerned . No its not a recpmmended daily wash *but* if your going to use Zaino etc without an otherwise prepared base the Dawn is recommended because of its high alkaline content and its ability to remove oils and waxes so there is none there to effect the Zaino bonding.

You could also use Klasse AIO to do the same and most properly used polishes will do the same.

The problem is not everyone has the right polishes and a buffer to prep the surface .. thus the Dawn wash recomendation. You also realize that if you do a thorough detail twice a year thats 2 Dawn washes. AND the dawn isn't left to sit on the paint for 3 hours its on and off in a few seconds.

I think if you all spend a little time at www.autopia.org and do some reading in the "learn " it will help substantially.


And I too speak from experience



 

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Jesstzn, i am sure you are talking from experience, i do not deny that, i see how clean your car is, much props for that :drink: . I talk from experience as well :thumbup: , just different people have different ways, and as far as products goes, 3M has a exellent choice of products. When i reply to forums regarding cleaning, i also keep in mind that not everyone can or want to afford the big stuff. I usually post the products that anyone can afford and that works.

Jwil: :thumbup: on your choices and work, she looks amazing :drink: . Also, the 3M products work really well by hand, just a little time, patience and elbows grease :lol: .

Here is mine by the way:





:thumbup:
 
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