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Discussion Starter #1
I am trying to replace the oil pump on my '98 1.8T with Tip. The problem that I am confronting is that no matter what I do to position the overhead engine lift I cannot get the engine high enough to get space to get the pan (unbolted and hanging there) over the frame member.

The engine/tranny hit the firewall and can't be lifted any higher. I am shy about an inch or so of clearance. The back of the pan is taller (because of the interface to the tranny) and won't pass over the frame member.

I have followed the Chilton repair manual procedure, but it is vague on this part of the procedure except to say to unbolt the front tranny mounts and loosen the rear ones, remove the left-front engine mount, then raise the engine as far as possible without pinching hoses, etc. I've done just about everything I can think of with additional jack support placement, to no avail. The car's front is raised by being on front tire ramps.

I've also unbolted the pump thinking I could drop it out of the engine into the pan and that would give me additional space to get the pan out, but there is insufficient clearance to drop the pump all the way down as the outlet tube that goes into the block is just a little too long so the pump can't drop into the pan.

If anyone has any experience or tips from the Bentley manual, I'd sure appreciate hearing from you! :???:
 

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I have not done this for an oil pan,just lower control arms.
I would support the vehicle on stands rather than the front wheels on ramps.
Then unbolt the front subframe and lower it until you have enough clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. Indeed, I ended up having to drop the subframe (loosen back bolts, remove front ones) and the subframe drops a few inches allowing the pan to come over the subframe.

The whole process is NOT easy and requires overhead lift and appropriate jack-stands. The front wheels can't be weighted when the subframe bolts are loosened.

Turns out my oil was coked (pan and oil pump intake screen full of "coffee grounds" and pan sides coated with black, charcoal-like, tough to remove deposits), so I think that was causing the oil pressure problems. Lack of oil pressure zapped my turbo as well. :thumbdow:

I think I'll have to invent a way to shield the oil line that runs from the turbo by the exhaust manifold to prevent so much heat coking up the oil. I was pretty good about changing the oil, but I bought the car used with 70k miles on it (100k now) and the former owner probably wasn't as careful.

Also, I'm going to wrap a section of screen door (metal) screen around the oil uptake screen tube to act as a larger scale particle pre-filter. That will help to keep larger particles away from the screen and provide a larger screen surface.

BTW, my oil pressure probs and turbo failure started about 2 weeks after I took the car for an oil change at one of those Quick Lube places. They said the oil came out rather thickly and recommended an engine flush. :oops: I made the mistake of saying yes. The connection between the flush and oil pressure problems is too close to be a mere coincidence. Coked oil broke off in chunks, fell to the bottom of the engine and got sucked up into the intake screen.
 

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Interesting to hear about the coffee grounds. I was having intermittent low oil pressure warnings soon after I bought my used 2001.5 1.8T. These warning lights were typically occurring after long runs on the interstate. I'd turn the engine off for a few minutes then restrat it and the warning would be gone. I thought it might be the oil pump or bad filters, but oil pressure was ok. This is apparently common. Some www research lead me to conclude it was debris blocking the intake screen. I think high speed driving breaks the crap loose and suspends it in the oil. Shut down for a while and it settles.

My solution has been 6 oil changes in <6000 miles, plus 1 can of engine flush between changes 3 and 4. The once french roast color oil (even after a few hundred miles) is now the normal honey brown, and the black carbon flecks are no longer appearing in the drained oil. The best part is the STOP oil warning light no longer occurs.
 

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ericpeterman said:
...I think I'll have to invent a way to shield the oil line that runs from the turbo by the exhaust manifold to prevent so much heat coking up the oil. I was pretty good about changing the oil, but I bought the car used with 70k miles on it (100k now) and the former owner probably wasn't as careful....
There's a factory TSB on this, so you could just go buy the parts...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sharky,

"Turbo turds" :lol:

Aside from cleaning out the pan until it shines, slapping on a new pump, changing the oil/filter, do you have any recos for additional items to be cleaned, such as turbo oil line, valve cover, etc? In other words, what should I do to clean the engine as much as possible? Thanks!

All: I'd like to put in a plug for www.GermanAutoParts.com. They were the only ones who had the oil pump in stock (and had it for $80 less than the dealer) and shipped it pronto (any dealer or parts supplier in N. Cal. would have been at least 3 days and then I'd have to drive an hour or more to get it, and pay at retail). GermanAutoParts.com responded within a few minutes to e-mail questions and were truly kind, informative and knowledgeable. Before letting me get off the phone they asked if there were any questions at all that I had. In an age of abusive and careless customer service, it's encouraging to find a company that puts the customer in the driver's seat. Great outfit! :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oil pump replacement

For those looking for more info on oil pump replacement and oil pan removal:
http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=72190&highlight=oil+pan+removal&sid=4223f604f6ecd442abe33cc0d2e80204

My symptoms were oil pressure light/buzzer, clacking top end/cam chain tensioner not getting oil pressure kinds of noises. Also turbo growling/whining and little boost. Fine metal flakes in oil pan from turbo bearings and impellers. Intimidating sounds but compression excellent and no lower end engine knocking kinds of sounds.

I replaced the oil pump for good measure, but the real problem was coked oil particles jamming the oil pump intake screen. The original pump itself is just fine and shows almost no wear at 100k.

I bought a roll of metal mesh for replacing screen doors and cut a piece out to fold over the oil pump intake pipe/screen and wired it on to act as a prefilter.

After installing new pump, replacing turbo with slightly used K03 unit, and installing an oil filter, the oil pressure came right up and the engine is running more smoothly and powerfully than it has since I bought it with 70k on it. I mean REALLY quiet and silky smooth. No metal flakes in oil.

I'm doing an Auto-RX cleanse now to get rid of top end coked stuff and any sludge and will change oil after 1k.

BTW, if you don't mind the few hours to install the turbo yourself there is no reason not to use some of the slightly used K03's out there on the classifieds, etc. I got mine for $117 shipped with 27k on it. Beats $850 to $1000 for new. For me, at 100k and a '98 it doesn't make economic sense to install a new one, especially to have a mechanic do it for a total of $1500-$2000! Out and in with another is about a 4-5 hour job for me now. If you check out the bearings on used unit before install, it should be fine. Look for little or no longitudinal play on the shaft and a very small amount of sideplay is normal and acceptible. Make sure you precharge it with oil and replace all gaskets, crush washers, etc. You should be able to do a used turbo replacement for under $250 if you do it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oil pump replacement cost

speedracer329,

Sorry you got stalled out in your DIY pump replacement project. Was the $525 for their labor alone (with you supplying pump) or was it parts/labor. To be honest, although it is a hole in your wallet, $525 for them to replace your pump is a good price. The pump itself retails for $250 so $275 in labor is not unreasonable. If it's labor alone and you supplied the pump, that's got to hurt.

-Did it fix your problem?
-What was your problem/symptoms?
-What are you doing to prevent it happening in future?
I'd appreciate hearing what you've learned.
 

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Hey ericpeterman, caught the post a little late to offer advice on the oil pump job :sad: Though I thought I'd pipe in and let you know you are not alone. I bought my '98 1.8T tip at 70K as well; huge coincidence. Mine started puffin smoke by 85K and had a tick when it would start for a few minutes. I initially got intimidated by this being a Euro. car and concerned that I had made a purchase mistake. I was provided with a Bentley manual when I bought the car and discovered CB5 as the prob.'s began to occur. I have since done a new oil pump, Reman. turbo and new oil return pipe. Same scenario, coked engine, particles in screen, etc. The car now seems to run much smoother and no more ticking problem :) I am currently approaching 123K and feel a sense of confidence as I would a much younger vehicle.
Also to serve some sort of purpose rather than just tell you my story :weirdo:
I also replaced all belts, timing and tensioner, engine mounts, water pump and valve cover gasket for good measure. But my advice to you would be what I added aftermarket... I added a boost gauge and oil pressure gauge to monitor this aging engine and precious new turbo, I installed an aftermarket blow-off valve to replace the sub-par factory one and wired in a turbo-timer; this allows the engine to run at idle for a pre set number of minutes to circulate coolant thru the turbo and cool it gradually so that it does not bake the oil inside the turbo (coking). You may already know this, but I was convinced when I opened the hood after dusk just a couple of days after the new turbo install and seen it glowing cherry red!! :shock: (spirited driving :D )

Well I don't mean to talk your ear off but I am just glad to see another CB5er in such a similar scenario as me. Reassures me that I am not the whacko for buying the high mileage euro. car that my friends insisted that I was :crazy: :crazy:

P.S. currently have done tranny and awaiting VAG programming, and the ABS pump/module has failed as well as the P.S. rack leaks from the seals :cry: :cry: :cry: DOES IT EVER END?!! :cry: I refuse to give up... :mad:

Good luck with your car, and keep me posted if you go through the same stuff, maybe I can help in the future as CB5 has for me through all my B5 issues.
 

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i think i've got the same issues with my 98 5spd 103k mi. Get a serious ticking from the top of the engine and an occasional oil buzzer light. Seems to happen especially when it is hot out or after a long interstate drive. Interestingly it only comes on under 2000 rpm. I'm putting in a oil pressure gauge this weekend so we will see what that says. likely i'll be removing my oil pan shortly too.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A couple things to try

There are two things to try before you drop the pan and while things are still marginal. Both are aimed at clearing the oil intake screen chemically:

1) Get a bottle of Auto RX (www.auto-rx.com), drop your oil, replace your oil filter and put in a quality dino (non-synth oil) for 1500 miles. Follow the instructions on their website. This is a gentle cleaning process and may work if you're not in accute oil pressure problems yet.

or

2) (This is a trick that's been used by mechanics for decades). Drop the oil but put the plug back in. Pour 1 gallon of kerosene in the oil fill. DO NOT START THE CAR. The idea is to get the kerosene to just sit in the pan and dissolve the sludge in the intake screen. Let the car sit overnight. You can rock the car back and forth with your hand to slosh the kero once in a while. Drop the kerosene after 12 hours (if sludging is the problem the kero should come out nasty with chunks in it and dark) and with the plug out, pour another quart of kerosene into the oil fill to slosh out the pan. After thorough drain, pour in 4 quarts of cheapo oil. Start the car and run it for 5 minutes at idle until it warms up. Drop the oil and let it drain thoroughly, replace the plug and the oil filter and refresh with high quality oil. Run for 1,000 miles and replace oil/filter (If the warning and buzzer don't alarm). Change the oil/filter every 1,000 or so for a few times.
 

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Surprise Surprise...I have the same tapping problem with my 98 B5 but no oil light (thank God)..The tapping started after I tried to change the conventional oil to synthetic oil at 88k miles(i had just bought the car so i assume that conventional oil was always used.)..Car now has 90700 miles.I have been told to try the RX route...Any feedback would be great.I would like this taken care of asap because the tapping sound has me paranoid.Any Faster options than the auto rx..I see that kerosene is an option.Realistically is that safe?please get back to me thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I consider the kero treatment safe, but that's me. Gunk and some of the other quickie oil flushes are kero or something similar and they have you actually run the engine! If I were in your situation, I think I'd just go for the Auto-RX since you're not getting the oil light. Follow their directions and make sure you use a dino oil for the rinse phase. Please do keep us posted on your results with it. After you're all done with the wash and rinse phases of Auto-RX, I'd recommend using the Napa 1333 filter or Wix 51333 (same thing) and that'll give you 5 qts capacity, then run a good synth. I'm now running SynPower 5w-40 and the car seems to be very happy.

If you have more specific questions or detail, let me know. One thing I'd recommend is getting an inexpensive oil pressure kit (around $10) and hooking it up in place of your electrical one on the back of the oil filter/cooler housing. (Use teflon tape to get it to seal the threads). Then you can run it and check the pressure when starting cold, after warming up, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
PassatVariantPunk: Do not do this if you've got warranty coverage, have them deal with an engine problem, and don't do it for routine maintenance. It is an attempt to avoid pulling the pan on a heavily sludged engine (no small task) where you are getting actual symptoms of oil screen blockage.

For routine maint any such "direct attack" on sludge (GUNK and other quick flushes would be included) runs the risk of breaking off chunks and clogging a clear intake screen. I would't do that if it were my engine! I'd run Auto-RX and sloooowwwwly clean up the engine.

In the case of a semi-acute oil press problem that is sludge related (oil light comes on after oil warms up is one indication), out of warranty the owner is faced with a) Take it in and have someone else pull the pan and replace the pump (expen$sive), b) DIY - difficult and time consuming or c) trying to clean out enough particles from the screen and pan to be able to keep sufficient oil flow and pressure to follow up with Auto-RX and really clean it out. If the problem persists you've got to drop the pan.

Using the oil pressure guage is the best way to see what's happening with oil pressure.

The most direct route is: Drop the pan, with all that entails.
 

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PassatVariantPunk said:
Sharky, can you recommend this kerosene treatment?

I am highly interested -now paranoid- after reading this thread.

TTT for more input.
I prefer Sea Foam brand snake oil to Farmer Ned brand snake oil.

What we've been doing is take the pan off, clean the pickup (until SPOTLESS), usually replace the oil pump, put it back together, fill with oil and new filter and Sea Foam. Run 20 minutes after fully hot at a fast idle, dump oil and filter again.

More Sea Foam, another filter and new oil, go drive it like it was on Cops for 15 or 20 minutes, change the oil AGAIN, no Sea Foam this time and we're done.

Had very good results so far.

Bear in mind that this procedure is only really for engines sludged up so bad that they already have a flashing oil light, horrid lifter tick, and so forth.

If your engine exhibits no signs of these, I'd probably be more gentle.
 
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