We need more info, 4cyl engine or v6? I think you have 4 cyl? Unfortunately we all cannot predict the future including your mechanic, I would hook up a mechanical oil pressure guage to verify you have good oil pressure! I have heard of people having problems with the oil pressure stop warning light coming on but they do have good oil pressure, but I would fix problem, if you ignore the warning whether it's correct or not if you ever have a problem you won't know and you will snuff the engine, also transmission leak can be rubber hose clamp for transmission cooler lines, original clamps are one use only but you can remove old clamp and install standard type clamp that you can screw tight, these transmissions are very expensive if you let the fluid get low you can possibly Burnup the transmission. Hope this helps.
Oil pressure stop motor warning light while the key is turned to auxiliary
Hi guys & gals, I have a 2004 passat gl with 144,000 miles on it. I recently bought this car and have had a whole host of problems after only putting ten miles on the car. I have had the oil pressure switch replaced, new oil pump installed, new timing belt put in, new oil pump tensioner put in and the rear main seal as well. I currently also have ATF fluid leaking from underneath my radiator too but my question to the veterans is "Should the oil pressure stop motor and red blinking oil can lights turn on when you put the key in the car and switch it only to auxiliary"? While the key is turned on to auxiliary some of the other emergency lights come on as well. Once I turn the car on the oil pressure stop motor warning goes away after 3-5 seconds and stays off. The mechanic had told me originally that the oil pressure stop motor light came on after he installed the oil pump but he got it to turn off by grounding it. So any advice would really be appreciated. I have owned the car 23 days or so and have only driven it fifteen miles. I paid $2,850 for it and it has almost has three thousand in repairs already. What a nightmare. Funny thing is I had this car inspected by very good mechanic before I bought it and he said it appeared to be good to go. He did a thorough examination too for about an hour. He put it on the lift and also ran the computer diagnostics. The only thing he warned me about is the toming belt. He told me that I need to find out if and when it was last changed. He said if I could not find out when it was last done it would be in my best interest to get it done otherwise if it broke it would destroy the engine because it has an interference engine. Thanknyou for reading.
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Also you should have your PCV system checked if it is pluged that could be why you had rear main seal leak, if so and you do not fix PCV blockage you will more than likely be putting another rear main seal in the engine because the engine may not be venting properly
That needs to be explained in better detail. If he grounded the oil pressure sensor wire, he bypassed the oil pressure sensor. In that state, the oil pressure circuit will be telling the dash that your oil pressure is good no matter what it actually is. It could be at zero PSI and the circuit would be saying everything is fine.The mechanic had told me originally that the oil pressure stop motor light came on after he installed the oil pump but he got it to turn off by grounding it.
You need a mechanic with experience working on VW and Audi cars.
Im sorry I forgot to mention it is a 4 cylinder 1.8t.
I will bringing it in to a garage next week that specializes in Volkswagen. I too thought it was a little funny how hebsaid he had tonground the wire. It just did not sound right to me. Does anyone know if the "oil pressure stop motor" light should turn on when you just turn the key to auxiliary. It turns off soon as you start the car.
The light is not on while driving. Just when I turn the key so the dashboard lights come on. If I put the key in the ignitiom and start the car then there is no light. So my question does oil pressure stop warning just automatically light up with the rest of the lights on the dash board?SWe need more info, 4cyl engine or v6? I think you have 4 cyl? Unfortunately we all cannot predict the future including your mechanic, I would hook up a mechanical oil pressure guage to verify you have good oil pressure! I have heard of people having problems with the oil pressure stop warning light coming on but they do have good oil pressure, but I would fix problem, if you ignore the warning whether it's correct or not if you ever have a problem you won't know and you will snuff the engine, also transmission leak can be rubber hose clamp for transmission cooler lines , original clamps are one use only but you can remove old clamp and install standard type clamp that you can screw tight, these transmissions are very expensive if you let the fluid get low you can possibly Burnup the transmission. Hope this helps.
Until we know the condition of the oil pressure sensor circuit, we have no way to know if the lights you are seeing are a result of oil pressure or improper wiring. That circuit works by closing to ground when oil pressure is high enough. If he hard-wired it to ground, the dash will think there is pressure even if there is none.
I'm assuming when you say "oil pressure stop warning", you're talking about the red display in the center of the gauges and not a single small warning light. (some people call them idiot lights)
I'm assuming when you say "oil pressure stop warning", you're talking about the red display in the center of the gauges and not a single small warning light. (some people call them idiot lights)
You are 100% correct. The warning I get is when I turn the key to auxiliary or some call it accessory. All the idiot lights come on and then five seconds later the text warning "oil pressure stop motor" comes on. As soon as I start the vehicle it turns off. When I first got the vehicle this happened while driving and it sounded very bad like it was about to throw a rod through oil pan. The garage replaced the oil pressure switch, oil pump, oil pump tensioner, timing belt, rear main seal. They told me when they checked the oil there was no bearing material or any other signs of engine damage. The engine sounds fine to me and the car drives well. Im just kind of unsure if this light always turns on like this with the rest of tbe idiot lights when the key is in the accessory position. I dont want to take any chances and have not driven it.Until we know the condition of the oil pressure sensor circuit, we have no way to know if the lights you are seeing are a result of oil pressure or improper wiring. That circuit works by closing to ground when oil pressure is high enough. If he hard-wired it to ground, the dash will think there is pressure even if there is none.
I'm assuming when you say "oil pressure stop warning", you're talking about the red display in the center of the gauges and not a single small warning light. (some people call them idiot lights)
All the simple warning lights should come on for a second when you first switch the key. This shows they are working. I don't think any of the red center display text warnings should come on unless there is an actual fault. I'm not 100% sure on this because my 1999 does not have that red center display, only some simple idiot lights.
The only way to know what the actual oil pressures are is to fit an oil pressure gauge. The oil pressure warning system built into the gauge cluster only sounds off when it's too late. And when it does sound off, it doesn't tell you much.
Going out on a guess here... The text warning about oil pressure before the engine is started and producing any oil pressure could be indicating a problem with the pressure monitoring system. If the system sees an indication of oil pressure (sensor wire closed to ground) when there should be none, it knows there is a fault somewhere.
Call that mechanic up and ask him what he did with the sensor wires and grounding them.
The only way to know what the actual oil pressures are is to fit an oil pressure gauge. The oil pressure warning system built into the gauge cluster only sounds off when it's too late. And when it does sound off, it doesn't tell you much.
Going out on a guess here... The text warning about oil pressure before the engine is started and producing any oil pressure could be indicating a problem with the pressure monitoring system. If the system sees an indication of oil pressure (sensor wire closed to ground) when there should be none, it knows there is a fault somewhere.
Call that mechanic up and ask him what he did with the sensor wires and grounding them.
I'm afraid your synopsis is most likely correct and their is more wrong with this car then I suspected. The people who I bought the car from uses the mechanic in question. At no time was I going to pay for any of these repairs that they made. It took them three weeks to do all of the previous mentioned repairs. I squeezed them for the most I could and now Im going to be taking to my guy who doesnt specialize in any particular brand of cars but is a good honest mechanic that has an impecible reputation in my city. I can say the car does drive and sound a hell of a lot better than it did after it orginally broke down. Ideally I would like to get it fixed and sell it but I morally can not do what was done to me. I guess my only option is to stay the course and have all the previous work that was done checked and start over. I truly like the look and feel of the passat but I'm really weary of it failing me. It seems the Passat has more than its fair share of problems vs. the Honda's I typically drive. I would never have thought in my wildest dreams that a German engineered vehicle would have so many problems. Thank you your candid and honest opinion.All the simple warning lights should come on for a second when you first switch the key. This shows they are working. I don't think any of the red center display text warnings should come on unless there is an actual fault. I'm not 100% sure on this because my 1999 does not have that red center display, only some simple idiot lights.
The only way to know what the actual oil pressures are is to fit an oil pressure gauge. The oil pressure warning system built into the gauge cluster only sounds off when it's too late. And when it does sound off, it doesn't tell you much.
Going out on a guess here... The text warning about oil pressure before the engine is started and producing any oil pressure could be indicating a problem with the pressure monitoring system. If the system sees an indication of oil pressure (sensor wire closed to ground) when there should be none, it knows there is a fault somewhere.
Call that mechanic up and ask him what he did with the sensor wires and grounding them.
Unfortunately I think Steve is correct he(the mechanic) must have grounded the sensor wiring. I do not remember ever seeing the oil pressure stop warning light on in my car so I went outside and checked it, when I turn the key on the red warning display says fasten seatbelt (only )and after I start the car it shows whatever I have the display set to I have it on miles to empty for the fuel supply. So yes I think you have an oil pressure problem and that the mechanic grounded the wiring you should not run the car until somebody hooks up a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify oil pressure!!
I believe both of you guys are correct as well. I thought it strange that this warning came up when the key was turn to accessory and I also found it weird that mechanic said, " I was getting a little nervous because the light was coming on but I called another mechanic I know and he said it needed to be grounded". What would make it only turn on when the key was turned to accessory and then turn off when the car is started? Is the sensor only grounded when the car is running? At any rate this is above my pay grade and I feel ripped off.
The oil pressure monitoring system is not a simple idiot light.What would make it only turn on when the key was turned to accessory and then turn off when the car is started? Is the sensor only grounded when the car is running?
The sensor on the engine is a pressure activated switch. The switch has only two states. Below the switching pressure the switch is open. Above the switching pressure (aprox 20 psi) the switch closes to ground. This sensor is monitored by the instrument cluster
The instrument cluster is a small specialized computer. The cluster monitors the state of the pressure sensing switch and applies some rules in order to determine when to sound an alert. As an example, the system is set up to not sound an alert if the rpm's are below about 1500. I tested this on my car. I unplugged the sensor (so the signal could never go closed to ground) and started the engine. I got no oil pressure warning at idle, even though as far as the cluster could tell, there was no closed signal from the sensor. When I blipped the throttle, the alert would sound as soon as the rpm's surpassed 1500.
In accessory, the car electronics are powered and awake but the engine is not running so there is no oil pressure. If the cluster sees an oil pressure confirmation from that sensor when it knows the engine isn't running, it knows something is wrong with the pressure monitoring circuit. Artificially grounding that sensor wire sends the "we have pressure" message at all times. Even when the engine is not running.
As a side question, why are you sitting with the car ignition switched on but the engine not running? If it's because you're sitting in the car waiting and want to listen to the radio, the radio can be turned on without the key. Just hit the power button on the radio and it'll run for 20~30 minutes without the key then power off all by itself when that time runs out. (everything on this car is smart in one way or another)
Your answer makes a whole of sense so thank you for the informed answer. To answer your question, I have a transmission fluid leak coming from the bottom the radiator. I turned the car on so I could quickly identify the exact source of the leak. I had to do this a couple of times. Prior to doing this the second time I switched the car on to accessory and then my phone rang. So I didnt start the car up and I just left it turned on the accessory mode while I answered my phone. This is when I noticed the "oil pressure stop motor consult manuel" warning appear. I know from when this happened the first time this was serious business so I havent driven it since. I was hoping on the outside chance this was normal but I pretty knew it is not. The shop that did all the repairs I did not have to pay because the unlicensed car dealer paid it. They replaced the oil pump, oil pressure switch, oil pump tensioner, the rear main seal and the timing belt. I did have to pay 45 dollars for the timing belt because since he was right there I thought it would have been a stupid idea not to replace it. I planned on having the timing belt changed anyways when I bought the car because I had no idea when or if it had ever been replaced, which it had been fairly recently changed but I didnt want to take the chance. So come Monday or Tuesday I will be bringing it to my mechanic who I have used for years and will ask him to review the other repairs to verify they have been done. I will also let him know about the suspicion of the wire being grounded in an attempt to possibly deceive me. I do know the car sounds like it should compared to when I first had the oil pressure issue. I didnt think I was gonna make it off the NYS thruway even though the exit was less than a mile away. I'm just really upset over buying this car with all of its problems. This was a surprise gift for my wife so she could have her first car. In over thirty years of driving she has never had her own personal vehicle.The oil pressure monitoring system is not a simple idiot light.
The sensor on the engine is a pressure activated switch. The switch has only two states. Below the switching pressure the switch is open. Above the switching pressure (aprox 20 psi) the switch closes to ground. This sensor is monitored by the instrument cluster
The instrument cluster is a small specialized computer. The cluster monitors the state of the pressure sensing switch and applies some rules in order to determine when to sound an alert. As an example, the system is set up to not sound an alert if the rpm's are below about 1500. I tested this on my car. I unplugged the sensor (so the signal could never go closed to ground) and started the engine. I got no oil pressure warning at idle, even though as far as the cluster could tell, there was no closed signal from the sensor. When I blipped the throttle, the alert would sound as soon as the rpm's surpassed 1500.
In accessory, the car electronics are powered and awake but the engine is not running so there is no oil pressure. If the cluster sees an oil pressure confirmation from that sensor when it knows the engine isn't running, it knows something is wrong with the pressure monitoring circuit. Artificially grounding that sensor wire sends the "we have pressure" message at all times. Even when the engine is not running.
As a side question, why are you sitting with the car ignition switched on but the engine not running? If it's because you're sitting in the car waiting and want to listen to the radio, the radio can be turned on without the key. Just hit the power button on the radio and it'll run for 20~30 minutes without the key then power off all by itself when that time runs out. (everything on this car is smart in one way or another)
Are you 100% sure that is transmission fluid leaking out front? The automatic transmission cars do have a trans fluid line that runs up to the radiator and back to the trans (for trans fluid cooling). Those lines don't leak all that often. The power steering has a line that runs out in front of the radiator on the drivers side to a small cooling loop and back. Those commonly start to leak after the front end has been put into service position to access the front of the engine. The moving of the nose of the car tugs on the rubber lines and they begin to leak where they connect to metal piping. Typically the fix is to replace the factory hose clamps with screw type clamps. Use only the correct mineral based power steering fluid when topping the power steering system.
When you replace a timing belt on the 1.8t engine, you replace the entire system (rollers, tensioner, water pump). Those parts are as likely to fail at 80,000 miles as the rubber belt is. A failure in any one of those parts will cause the same results (pistons colliding with valves). A VW/Audi experienced mechanic would know this. A general mechanic might not.
A B5 Passat would be a great car for your wife. They're comfortable, safe, easy to drive, peppy performance, provide seating for four adults, have a roomy trunk and can get practical gas mileage. As with most German cars, they are maintenance divas. It's best if you stay on top of scheduled maintenance and promptly address any additional failures as they pop up. I hope this one isn't too far gone to be practical and trustworthy.
When you replace a timing belt on the 1.8t engine, you replace the entire system (rollers, tensioner, water pump). Those parts are as likely to fail at 80,000 miles as the rubber belt is. A failure in any one of those parts will cause the same results (pistons colliding with valves). A VW/Audi experienced mechanic would know this. A general mechanic might not.
A B5 Passat would be a great car for your wife. They're comfortable, safe, easy to drive, peppy performance, provide seating for four adults, have a roomy trunk and can get practical gas mileage. As with most German cars, they are maintenance divas. It's best if you stay on top of scheduled maintenance and promptly address any additional failures as they pop up. I hope this one isn't too far gone to be practical and trustworthy.
The transmission cooler lines underneath the radiator have a leak in it. The mechanic attempted to fix it with both some type of liquid metal and permatex to no avail. As for the waterpump and pullies I did not have them replaced because they were pratically new you could tell simply by looking at them. I had a new timing belt put on for the simple fact it cost me forty five dollars. Im hoping I will be able to resolve all of these issues but so far she hasn't faired to well.Are you 100% sure that is transmission fluid leaking out front? The automatic transmission cars do have a trans fluid line that runs up to the radiator and back to the trans (for trans fluid cooling). Those lines don't leak all that often. The power steering has a line that runs out in front of the radiator on the drivers side to a small cooling loop and back. Those commonly start to leak after the front end has been put into service position to access the front of the engine. The moving of the nose of the car tugs on the rubber lines and they begin to leak where they connect to metal piping. Typically the fix is to replace the factory hose clamps with screw type clamps. Use only the correct mineral based power steering fluid when topping the power steering system.
When you replace a timing belt on the 1.8t engine, you replace the entire system (rollers, tensioner, water pump). Those parts are as likely to fail at 80,000 miles as the rubber belt is. A failure in any one of those parts will cause the same results (pistons colliding with valves). A VW/Audi experienced mechanic would know this. A general mechanic might not.
A B5 Passat would be a great car for your wife. They're comfortable, safe, easy to drive, peppy performance, provide seating for four adults, have a roomy trunk and can get practical gas mileage. As with most German cars, they are maintenance divas. It's best if you stay on top of scheduled maintenance and promptly address any additional failures as they pop up. I hope this one isn't too far gone to be practical and trustworthy.
My car is a manual so I don't know how your trans cooler lines are routed. What I used to do with American cars was cut the bad section out of the line and bridge the gap with oil rated rubber hose and hose clamps. I don't know what pressure those lines run at.
The transmission cooler lines underneath the radiator have a leak in it. The mechanic attempted to fix it with both some type of liquid metal and permatex to no avail. As for the waterpump and pullies I did not have them replaced because they were pratically new you could tell simply by looking at them. I had a new timing belt put on for the simple fact it cost me forty five dollars. Im hoping I will be able to resolve all of these issues but so far she hasn't faired to well.[/QUOTE
I have been told that the rule of the tump is when you replacing the timing belt, you have to replace the water pump too. I will saves you money and time since you work around that area.
Correction - typo: "rule of thumb"
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