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Discussion Starter #1
I normally get the Mann version but saw a Fram PH9911 at Walmart, complete with the rubber gasket for $9 and change. Looks identical to the OEM and even has "Made in Germany" stamped on the top, just like the OEM. Has anyone tried these? I'm wondering if they are actually made by MANN, which I thought I read somewhere makes the filter for VW. It's not a bad price and sure is convenient as well as WM is where I get the Mob-1 0W-40.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys - good to hear that you've not had issues with it. I'd bet MANN makes them as well. This will certainly save some time and money
 

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i bought the mobil 1 oil and filter for $35 at autozone, there was 2 gaskets for the filter but only used 1, what is the second one for? and btw $9 for the frahm sounds really good.
 

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FRAM filters are absolute garbage. Pretty much the worst quality filter you can buy other than the no name generic brands. Stick with OEM filters or name brands (Mobil 1, Royal Purple, etc) The oil filter is vital to the helath of your engine, why would you want to skimp out on such a crucial component?
 

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Actually, Fram is knocked quite a bit on the lube and automotive boards, and for mostly good reasons. Mainly for their common use of flimsy cardboard end caps for the filter cartridges (inside spin-on filters), cheap plastic bypass valves, and reduced media in square inches. But at the same time, I've seen various flow test results that showed at least some of the Fram medias filter out particulates quite well when compared to the competition (even if those tests didn't adhere to ASTM standards). The simplified cartridge filters most of us use (not spin-on) mean that those differences are of less relevance to us -- you can pick up a Fram (or any other brand) for VWs and quickly see if it's cheap or not, with nothing hidden as with a spin-on filter. So a Fram might be a perfectly decent choice for our rides, but I'd still avoid their spin-ons.
 

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SKM348 mentioned, "(Fram) looks identical to the OEM and even has "Made in Germany" stamped on the top, just like the OEM." Purolator has apparently outsourced to Mann for some/many of their VW filters in the past, and if this Fram is an outsourced filter (from whom, I don't know), then the usual "Fram is bad" comments probably wouldn't apply. This might simply be a repackaged Mayle, Mann, or other Euro brand filter.....or not. If it appears truly identical to a factory filter, there's a good chance that the "Fram" is actually a Mann filter in drag.
 

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I have been using Fram for over 50 years, and use the 9911 on my Passat. Sems to work just fine, and since I change the oil every 5,000 miles, there have been no issues in the engine.
 

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FRAM suck..stay away from the orange cans of death or any other one they make. Purolator, mann or wix.
I have a jeep 4.0 that knocked after I changed my oil and used a fram filter. could not figure out for the life of me why or what happened. found out from other 4.0 jeepers about how shitty fram are.
and here is your proof...
Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/opinions.html

[h=3]Filters To Avoid[/h] The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.

[h=4]AC Delco Duraguard[/h] AC Delco no longer seems to manufacture oil filters. They are now made by Champion Labs using their new "Ecore" design. See that section below for the details.

[h=4]Champ (Ecore)[/h] Champion Labs touts their new "Ecore" design as a major advancement in oil filter technology. In my humble opinion, they are a major advancement in cost savings for Champion. I have no data to back this up, but that's what fiber end caps and plastic core tubes say to me. I particularly don't like their "patent pending" bypass valve design, which depends on the stamped leaf spring at the back of the filter to regulate the bypass pressure. One unlucky dent in the back of the can knocks it out of whack, assuming it was correct to begin with.

[h=4]Fram Extra Guard[/h] Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

[h=4]Fram Double Guard[/h] Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. DuPont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.

[h=4]Fram High Mileage[/h] Yet another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram! Gotta love these guys. It's a Fram Extra Guard with a weird goo cartridge suspended on the clean side of the filter, blocking the outlet. It's supposed to be some kind of additive package, but if you want a high mileage oil, buy a high mileage oil. I don't trust these guys...sorry.

[h=4]Pennzoil[/h] This filter is a Fram. It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.

[h=4]Quaker State[/h] This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Pennzoil...

[h=4]STP[/h] This is a Champion Labs "Ecore" filter that I have seen at Auto Zone and Walmart.
 

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FRAM suck..stay away from the orange cans of death or any other one they make. Purolator, mann or wix.
I have a jeep 4.0 that knocked after I changed my oil and used a fram filter. could not figure out for the life of me why or what happened. found out from other 4.0 jeepers about how shitty fram are.
and here is your proof...
Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources

Opinions and Recommendations - Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources

[h=3]Filters To Avoid[/h] The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.

[h=4]AC Delco Duraguard[/h] AC Delco no longer seems to manufacture oil filters. They are now made by Champion Labs using their new "Ecore" design. See that section below for the details.

[h=4]Champ (Ecore)[/h] Champion Labs touts their new "Ecore" design as a major advancement in oil filter technology. In my humble opinion, they are a major advancement in cost savings for Champion. I have no data to back this up, but that's what fiber end caps and plastic core tubes say to me. I particularly don't like their "patent pending" bypass valve design, which depends on the stamped leaf spring at the back of the filter to regulate the bypass pressure. One unlucky dent in the back of the can knocks it out of whack, assuming it was correct to begin with.

[h=4]Fram Extra Guard[/h] Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

[h=4]Fram Double Guard[/h] Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. DuPont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.

[h=4]Fram High Mileage[/h] Yet another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram! Gotta love these guys. It's a Fram Extra Guard with a weird goo cartridge suspended on the clean side of the filter, blocking the outlet. It's supposed to be some kind of additive package, but if you want a high mileage oil, buy a high mileage oil. I don't trust these guys...sorry.

[h=4]Pennzoil[/h] This filter is a Fram. It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.

[h=4]Quaker State[/h] This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Pennzoil...

[h=4]STP[/h] This is a Champion Labs "Ecore" filter that I have seen at Auto Zone and Walmart.
All of this doesn't apply to the 2.0T FSI... since it uses a cartidge filter.

note, Toughgards (grey can) are acceptable, and the newer Ultras are constructed differently as their filter medium cannot be supported by cardboard endcaps.

Speaking of cardboard... my Mann filter for my 2.oT FSI has paper/resin endcaps.... will my engine die a horrible death? It's been 135,000 miles already....
 

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Grinding Gears...gone fishing!
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All of this doesn't apply to the 2.0T FSI... since it uses a cartidge filter.

note, Toughgards (grey can) are acceptable, and the newer Ultras are constructed differently as their filter medium cannot be supported by cardboard endcaps.

Speaking of cardboard... my Mann filter for my 2.oT FSI has paper/resin endcaps.... will my engine die a horrible death? It's been 135,000 miles already....
I did not mention Mann so you are good to go..thanks for asking.
 
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