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woooowwww everybody has some nice work in the dubs. im about to finally change my setup so i can get a little more oompf than the monsoon can provide.
 

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Thanks for sharing...Chiva...I'm researching DD HU's right now and I like the look of your P4100. I think I'm leaning towards the X920BT (right now at least) lol. This forum is great - thanks all.
 

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I love my pioneer deck. So many inputs. The ipod interface is awesome. I didn't think it was worth dropping another $500 for navi so thats why i chose the 4100. The 2010 model is even nicer. I would recommend that one. It gives you the option to upgrade to navi if you want to later on.

Update on my setup, i wanted more punch so I swapped out my JL 500/1 for an alpine pdx 1.1000




It is smaller, better, and pounds like a beast. I love it
 

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Those you tha have installed indash NAV systems in you B5.5's I have a question:

How comfortable is is to view the display while driving?

I am replacing my head unit and looking into some of those stereos that have navigation built in. But i was wondering, with the position of the radio in this car if I am better off with portable system that can be installed on top of the dash board instead.
 

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anybody out there replaced speakers in the B5 with the dyna audio speakers out of the B6 passat?
curious of the quality of the dyna audio speakers found in new passat??
 

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p4100 help....

hi i have an pioneer dvd player p4100 and i cant seem to play music videos from the flash drive do u no why that is ?
 

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anybody out there replaced speakers in the B5 with the dyna audio speakers out of the B6 passat?
curious of the quality of the dyna audio speakers found in new passat??
1) It's Dynaudio, not dyna audio.
2) They won't work. You' have to destroy them to get them out of the spacers. They are, however, very similar to aftermarket Dynaudio speakers which can be installed very easily.

hi i have an pioneer dvd player p4100 and i cant seem to play music videos from the flash drive do u no why that is ?
1) You should have started your own thread for this question.
2) The Pioneer isn't designed to pull video from a flash drive. It will only play DVDs and videos from an iPod.
 

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Just because you can physically fit the wire in the amp doesn't mean it needs it. Your mid/hi amp won't draw squat which is why a 4 gauge would be fine.
Kinda late of a reply but I did it anyways:D




0 gauge monster wire. The install wasn't as bad as i thought cos I didn't have to drill through the fire wall. Took me a sec to figure out how to take out the back seat but i figured it out.

Just bought an alpine pdx F6.. will be putting that in as soon as it comes in.
 

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Well here is mine guys

Sub: dynabel dy9815 ( norwegian brand)
Amp: Alpine mpr-m2000

and the box is 85 liters quite huge in that trunk :p around 170 lbs :p

 

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Year of Passat: 2002

What kind of stereo came stock with the car:monsoon

any custom fabrication work to install stereo: fiberglass sub enclosure and modified tweeter pods

head unit - Alpine CDA-9855

Speakers - only using fronts which are now soundstream ref60c's

Amplifiers - Pioneer prsd-1200m and prsd-4200f bridged running my fronts

Processors - none

Suboofers - single memphis 15M3D2

Wiring - using all streetwires. 4 awg power and ground (for now) zn7 interconnects

Battery(s) - optima yellow top

Locations of product installed and what did you have to do to put it there - i put the soundstream mids in the stock location after building some speaker adapters and the tweeters in the stock location as well but had to modify the pannel to fit them. as of now the amps are mounted on the back of the rear seats but this is temporary, as i am building a shelf that will be attached to the rear deck. the sub is on the left side which i had made a fiberglass enclosure to fit it so i still have lots of room in the trunk. the cd player is in stock location with a scosche pocket below. i placed the remote gain control in an empty location under the passenger heated seat control.

Who installed it (if you didnt do it, dont take credit for it, give credit where credit is due) I did all the work myself sadly as it took me to much time.

How long did it take to install it to long. it

If you had to do it again what would you do differently pay somebody to do the fiberglass, i dont much care to do that work
 

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Year of Passat 2002 GLS 4mo

What kind of stereo came stock with the car Unknown. Bought it used back in Aug 2012.

Any custom fabrication work to install stereo Unknown. Previous owner installed headunit and sub cables. Also installed a USB cable through the glove box, very handy and hide-able.

head unit - include model number and manufacture Kenwood DDX 512

Speakers - Unknown. Probably stock

Amplifiers - Unknown. The Kenwood has a built in amp running 22 RMS (50 peak). The Subs are running off of a Memphis SRX1.500

Processors - None yet. Will be installing an EQ and direct sub-control knob in the future.

Subwoofers -2 x Memphis PR12

Video - None

Wiring - I forget, but they are thick as hell
Battery(s) - OEM? Haven't really looked, it's all in German, so...

Locations of product installed and what did you have to do to put it there words

Who installed it (if you didnt do it, dont take credit for it, give credit where credit is due) "Sound Decisions" in Southern Illinois

How long did it take to install it About two hours

If you had to do it again what would you do differently Get one competition class 15in sub, instead, to save trunk space. And put dynomat everywhere. 6 months of drum and bass has started to take its toll on the interior of my car.

What advice do you have for any noobs who would want to do a system like this Make sure you use good fuses, proper gauge wire for both the signal, power, and ground, and don't turn all the knobs to max on the amp


IMAG0364.jpg IMAG0353.jpg IMAG0418.jpg IMAG0417.jpg
Back car.jpg Front car.jpg
 

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Year of Passat: 1998 White Passat B5

What kind of stereo came stock with the car: Had JVC aftermarket HU when I purchased vehicle

any custom fabrication work to install stereo: Double din conversion and custom amp rack and Fiberglass subwoofer enclousure

head unit: Pioneer DEH-9400BH (Bluetooth and Satellite radio)
WP_20130822_002.jpg

Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C components all the way around
6 1/2in 110w RMS
1" silk dome tweeter (with 4 level crossover)

Amplifiers:
Alpine MRX-F65 ch Amp- 110wX4 @4ohm
Alpine MRX-M100 mono Amp- [email protected]

Processors: None except for tweeter crossovers that came with the speakers

Suboofers: 12" Alpine type R (1000w RMS)

Video: None except for the radio display which can play a video of a skydiver haha

Wiring: 0ga from battery to a distribution block behind the amp rack. 0ga from block to 4ch amp. 0ga from block to 2 farad cap and from cap to sub amp.
12ga speaker wire to all four speakers
8ga speaker wire to sub
3 sets of shielded RCA cables

Battery(s): No extra batteries

Locations of product installed and what did you have to do to put it there: Amp rack with mono and 4ch amp and two farad cap is in the stock cd changer area on the drivers side of trunk. Subwoofer enclosure is opposite that on the passenger side trunk.

WP_20130822_003.jpg
WP_20130822_004.jpg

Who installed it (if you didnt do it, dont take credit for it, give credit where credit is due): All work was done by me with a helping hand from my dad(vtraudt)

How long did it take to install it: Spread it out over about a week.

If you had to do it again what would you do differently: Nothing really. I love my system. Maybe try a ported enclosure? But i dont know how that would work with such a irregular shaped enclosure.

What advice do you have for any noobs who would want to do a system like this: Custom fiberglass enclosures are a pita but can be done.
 

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I know this thread is well.... quite old, but I figure everyone will see and someone might be able to answer me

I've seen in this thread and elsewhere, people mounting their amps behind the side panels in the trunk, mainly in the wagons.
I had thought about doing this, but my first concern was if the amp would be able to breath well and not overheat.
I used to have an amp under the boot floor (2000 Volvo V70 pictured) and it got hot - never cut out - but wasn't sure if that was because of its position or operating temp

anyway, if no one has problems with ventilation then I suppose I'll do the same, and if so, what's the easiest way to do this. Mount a piece of wood and screw on top?
Where do you then put the jack/tools?

Also I have a non monsoon double din HU and I will be putting a sub in the back. I've searched all over the place and have found some colours for the speaker wires. Are the colours the same all the way to the speaker (I'll be splicing before the door for LOC) and where's best to splice into?

Thanks
Brad

 

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I mounted mine vertically in the passenger side cubby of my wagon on a sheet of 1/4" plywood. No heat issues at all, but it doesn't normally get hot anyway. That area is vented along the window. Mounting with the heatsink facing down will incur the most heat related issues. It just radiates back into itself.

I always splice LOCs just behind the radio. Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Mobile Video, and Cruise Control Info for Installers may have the wire colors available.
 

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I mounted mine vertically in the passenger side cubby of my wagon on a sheet of 1/4" plywood. No heat issues at all, but it doesn't normally get hot anyway. That area is vented along the window. Mounting with the heatsink facing down will incur the most heat related issues. It just radiates back into itself.

I always splice LOCs just behind the radio. Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Mobile Video, and Cruise Control Info for Installers may have the wire colors available.
Thanks for the reply, is there any reason why you chose to splice in behind the stereo? I thought about splicing before rear doors and bring the wire all the way to the side hole in the wheel arch and putting my LOC there, that way I don't have to run a long RCA from the front to the back of the car (so only power wire has to go front/back)
Not a problem to do the same with the RCA but I though it'd be simpler to splice in just before the rear doors into the rear speaker wire signals.

Couple more questions....
How easy is it to get the wires into the side cubby/under arch place where the jack tools are normally placed?
And, where did you put these tools after? Into the other side?


edit: Just checked that site, but not all the wires are listed...
 

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The colours are all different there, but I've managed to find some idea of colours, I know at least which wires coming out of the HU are for the rears.
 
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