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Discussion Starter #1
greetings from the UK ...

first of all great forum, have been lurking for a while looking for answers but no luck so far .. so ...
I have a 99 1.8t which has been a great car for the 2 years I have had it, only probs have been a dead blower fan which I replaced about 4 monts ago with great success and a REally stiff boot (trunk) lid which is still a little difficult - this i can live with.
About 2 months ago, however, the car started to get a really nasty jumping when accelerating and it is now getting worse. I took my baby for a 400 mile run last weekend and now while cruising at about 80, sometimes the car just seems to die for about 2 seconds and then is fine again for 30 - 40 minutes. The warmer the car gets the worse the problem seems to be.
My local garage (who I have used for years - not a VW specialist) can not find anything wrong but I am loath to take it to the local main dealer here in south London who want big money just to look into the problem. Anyone have any ideas or similar problems??
Also, my local guy could not reset the 'service now' message so this beeps at me every time i start up. Is there a way to reset without VAG-Com.
Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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Welcome to the club!

I believe only a VAG-COM can reset the codes stored. It may also shed somelight on what problems you car is experiencing.

How many miles are on the car? Could it possibly be a coilpack that might be acting up? How is the engine's idle?

I hope this helps at least spur some conversation regarding your problems.

:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi rpaller, thanks for the reply.
51k on the car and the engine idles fine, no probs at all there. Coil pack was my fist thought but have also thought vacuum leak etc..
For those of you who have bought VAG-COM has it been worth the cash?? (with the exchange rate at the moment it wouldn't be too pricey) ... :cry:
 

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Welcome to the club

I know in the US we have a place called AutoZone, they will check and reset all codes for free. Maybe call around and see if a local tuner shop/auto parts store can/will do this for you. Also, how often have you changed your oil, and could it be close to the time to change it. It might not be a bad idea to check the condition of your oil

also, is it manual or tip, if it is manual at 80 it could be you clutch slipping, have you noticed this under hard acceleration or any other times.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hi jeffsu350.
Thanks for the reply.
Car was serviced just 3 weeks ago, oil change, new plugs etc .. it's a manual so i guess it could be the clutch - it is worse under hard acceleration, although it sometimes jumps / stutters under light acceleration too. wouldn't the engine race though if it was the clutch. Feels more like a loss of power to me.It's definately much worse when the car is warm however.
 

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the engine should race and the car will go no where if it was the clutch. The vag-com will definatly be worth it. I decided to build one, i am currently in the process of sodering. This process has been much harder than it was made out to be. I have had no prior electrical experience however, so it should be the harderest for me. It still is relativly easy, just time comsumming.

http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=66907
 

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If you feel comfortable operating the car the way it is for another 400 miles I would recommend a bottle fuel injector cleaner. It's cheap, easy, and makes sense before you start paying real money to fix stuff.

Regards - Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey nice link, that all looks easy & as I am an EE working for a distributor of components I don't even need to go to digi-key. (now where is my soldering iron ....)
 

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Please correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't they have problems with the Ignition Control Module on the early models? It would get too hot, burn out and the car would behave like a bad coil pack? That could be it I think, Vag-Com would certainly help out there. Maybe if you've got some friends with VW/Audi cars, you could go in togethere and make it less expensive, plus it would probably get more use...

Anyway, I've got it, and it has paid for itself several time over during my own modifications (one of which would have caused the car to need to be towed into the dealer if I hadn't had it...)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks for the advice guys, all usefull leads to follow. Harrisot, it has already had half a bottle of redex (is that a uk thing??) which is an injector cleaner but that didn't seem to help much.
looks like VAG-Com pretty much pays for itself, especially the home made interface which at $50 is less than half a tank of petrol.
 

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It could be a problem with the MAF. If the sensor is beginning to fail it could be telling the car that you have too much - to little air and starving it out causing the stutter... It has happened to me before on an older VW Jetta. Good luck.

Oh.. WELCOME!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
bump for more ideas .....

took car to main dealer and for £80 ($140 approx) they connected it to their computer and told me that there was nothing wrong with the car ....aaarrrggghhhhh

what to try first??? :mad:
 

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didgeman said:
bump for more ideas .....

took car to main dealer and for £80 ($140 approx) they connected it to their computer and told me that there was nothing wrong with the car ....aaarrrggghhhhh

what to try first??? :mad:
Oh my god!!! What a rip off :mad: 80£ checking out the codes. Were you around when they did it or did you have to wait somewhere else, because it sure isn't 80£ operation, hell, not even 8£. They just open the driver door and plug the car to a computer. I would go back there and let them hear you are not going to tolerate that kind of robbery, geez, and I thought my dealer was an ass...
 

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If nothing showed on the computer,it may be bad gas or a plugged fuel filter.
Possible fuel pump,but usually they make a loud hum before they go bad.
Try a filter and some drygas.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yep £80 / hour .. minimum 1 hour charge .. omg i am in the wrong business!!

Filter is a great idea .. but what is drygas??

oh and thanks ..
 

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service lamp re-set

from the haynes manual:

switch off the ignition
press and hold the button next to the speedometer
switch the ignition on and release the button
turn the knob next to the tachometer clockwise
turn off the ignition

The light should turn off.

Please note: I use a Vag Com to do this, so I have no idea whether it works or not, or what it will do to your car so proceed with this at your own risk!

with regard to your other problem - couple of areas to look at:
1: Check your air filter (see if its gunked up)
2: Check your coil packs, then check that the plugs are well seated and are the correct ones.
3: Check that the leads to the coil packs are pushed home, and are clean. I usually spray electrical contact cleaner on the leads, then re-connect them whenever I inspect my plugs.
4: I agree that something like STP total Fuel System cleaner would be a good investment just to see if its the injectors...

If it didnt show up on a Vag diagnostic, it is typically something daft like the above. I would be slightly suspicious of the plugs/coil packs just due tothe recent service.

Cheers,

T.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks TMG. I have already tried the haynes manual method but it did not work. :(

Coil packs have crossed my mind but I can not find any way of checking them. Wouldn't the dealers computer show any problems there??

I have replaced the plugs with oem bosch's (pre-gapped 4 prong so can't get the gaps wrong).

Coils seemed to sit on the plugs ok but there was no click when I removed them .. is this normal.

Air filter is only a couple of months old and appears to be fine (no major gunk). I have put a bottle of redex through the tank .. do you think the STP is more effective ??

Thanks again to all for the ideas ..
 

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hmmm - you should get kind of a "pop" noise when you lift off the coil packs. The leads I'm referring to are the leads connecting to the left hand side of the coil pack - the sping lcip retainer is the metal band over the top of it.

with the STP stuff, I only mentioned it because my local motor factos doenst have REdex, only the sTP stuff, so I honestly dont know which isthe preferred one :)

I would check the plugs themselves as well to see if any of them are fouled.

Cheers,

T.
 

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Welcome to B5.
my car is a 2003 glx v6 30v 13kmiles on it.

Here is my situation that may help in your situation. On acceleration Low RPM acceleration i get these hesitations or jumps or misfires. either way its all the same thing. Last time i brought it to the dealer no codes nothing is showing up on the computer diagnostics. however, the dealer service tech test drives it and he is getting the same hesitations or misfires. nothing is showing on the diagnostics so now the tech is confused.

well after that episode with the dealer they said a VW rep is coming to the dealer to investigate my issues with the misfires.

I decided to attempt a fix on my own after talking with Many B5'rs and listening to their problems and fixes.

First thing i considered back in April 1 04 @ 12500miles was if replacing an ignition wire did not eliminate my hesitations or misfires there must be a simple reason if its not showing up on the computer diagnostics. I decide to drive my car till my car was less than 1/4 tank of gas. I put cheveron techron fuel injecter cleaner in the car tank. than i drove the car till the gas light comes on. than i drove the car till im almost out of gas. Finally i put only cheveron 93 octain gas and fill it up *NOTE DONT OVERFILL.* Immediatly my car no longer is hesitating or misfiring on a frequant basis. the car is now performing very well and rarely misfires now.

CONCLUSION. Bad Gas. or change in gas from winter to summer months or a clogged fuel filter or bad carbon buildup in the injectors ie cause of bad gas...

Right now i am comfortable that the car is running much better. if you were able to drive my 2003 glx v6 passat you would be like WTF this sucks when i was getting all those hesitations.

now things are much better :)

hope this experience helps you!!!

Ganx14
:weirdo: :weirdo: :weirdo: :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Ganx14 & TMG.
TMG I didn't check the leads that connect to the coilpack .. worth a look & a bit of switch cleaner tho' only a 2 min job at most.

Ganx14, your problem sounds almost exactly the same as mine .. car was jumping around so much this morning in 1st I had to pop the clutch and let it 'relax' for a minute before i tried again .. car felt like I was teaching a learner who had not mastered the clutch yet ... argh (thank god none of my neighbours saw me kangarooing down the road :crazy: )

OK I am going to try more injector cleaner and a few more tanks of shell optimax (I think that is the highest octane avaiable in the UK). After that I guess it is a case of replacing throttle body, MAF, Turbo valve, fuel filter, vacuum lines untill i find the damned problem ... OMG I am getting sooooo mad now ..........
 
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