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I think that is what I used but mine came in gallon jugs. 7 liters sounds like enough. No idea about the various part numbers or ratings or whatever they are.
 

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I defer to my colleagues , Max Life is fine , the reason I say 7 quarts/liters or even 8 is because when you do it, you do not want to be screwing around running short, you can always take them back. As to the range sensor/multi function switch, seriously doubt if that is your problem,take care of trans. first, as I suggested when you do get it up and level look to see if any leaks at the bottom of the radiator where trans. coolant lines go from drivers side to passenger side, notorious area for rusted lines
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Made all my orders for trans job. Are those bolts that hold pan up m6X20mm?? Didn't know exact vw part number to verify. Any who had changed those out to a different style bolt? Just looking for options or if I come into problems removing them. I did order a hand impact drive to use on them as in the youtube video suggested to minimize stripping or damage to bolts.

Also, if you have vw part number for both filler plug and drain plug o rings I'd appreciate it! Thanks again for all the help PW community!
 

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Size is correct I use stainless steel button head cap screws from McMaster-Carr Supply because I am in the rust belt. Upon reassembly, no sealer or silicone gasket goop is used, progressively torque from center out to I believe 84 INCH pounds (not foot pounds)
 

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McMaster-Carr
That's where real men go shopping. :p
 

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McMaster-Carr
That's where real men go shopping. :p
lmao, If I recall it was like $6.25 for 25 6mm x 20mm , actually were bought by the Govt. for a job, and somehow landed on my workbench. IIRC the head diameter is same as OEM as well. I live and work in one of those geographic harmonic convergences ECS Tuning is 6 miles from where I work and McMast. huge distribution center 7 miles from where I live. Heaven
 

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I would not worry about the Trans range sensor until after the ATF fluid and filter are changed out. Then make sure to clear the codes and see if anything comes back.
I eventually got tired of removing all of those small bolts by hand on the trans pans, so I started using an old adjustable electric drill. I set the torque to minimal when tightening and it really speeds up the job.
For re-filling, I bought a 2 gallon poly sprayer with a metal wand. I removed the spray tip and bent the end into a 90 degree bend, just wide enough to fit inside the fill tube. I used 7L just so I would not run out in the bottle. I do not wait for the trans to warm up, it warms very quickly and by the time you shift through the gears, it's already warm enough. Down here, it was often warm enough before starting as 95 is a nice cool summer day for us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I would not worry about the Trans range sensor until after the ATF fluid and filter are changed out. Then make sure to clear the codes and see if anything comes back.
I eventually got tired of removing all of those small bolts by hand on the trans pans, so I started using an old adjustable electric drill. I set the torque to minimal when tightening and it really speeds up the job.
For re-filling, I bought a 2 gallon poly sprayer with a metal wand. I removed the spray tip and bent the end into a 90 degree bend, just wide enough to fit inside the fill tube. I used 7L just so I would not run out in the bottle. I do not wait for the trans to warm up, it warms very quickly and by the time you shift through the gears, it's already warm enough. Down here, it was often warm enough before starting as 95 is a nice cool summer day for us.
Yea I'm gonna just do fluid and filter change before I start delving into anything else that may not be the issue. I decided to try something this morning and don't know if it fixed the issue or not. I turned engine to on position and pressed on gas pedal for 20 secs to reset transmission code. I decided to run down to the gas station only 1 mile away. Funny thing is that I didn't go into limp mode and all gears shifted as it normally did. Still doing change. I bought this torque wrench for the pan and filter since both plugs I can pretty much do without a torque wrench.


That's one I found that even goes that low for smaller bolt torqueing.

I'm charging my cordless drill to unzip bolts once loosened and to reinsert without torqueing.
 

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Be sure to clean the holes of the bolts if they have crud in them before removing them. A few seconds cleaning can save you the big hassle of removing a stripped bolt. And... they are T27, not T25, in case you didn't know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Be sure to clean the holes of the bolts if they have crud in them before removing them. A few seconds cleaning can save you the big hassle of removing a stripped bolt. And... they are T27, not T25, in case you didn't know.
Are the places where you jack up the car 4 good points to use my 4 jack stand's with blocks of 2x4's to support car? I bought 4 2 ton stands.
 

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I jack the car up on the subframe mounts. They are about 12" in from the side and look like a metal cup. Then I put the jackstands lengthwise on the inside of the frame rails, it stops them from being damaged. For the rear, I jack the car up the rear axle mount, the large metal round part just behind the 3 bolts. If you have a jack with a frame rail cup, use that.

This is the best pic I have, the subframe mounts are the 2 metal cups hanging down on each side of the trans. The jack stands are on the inside of the frame rails.
103243
 
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As PZ suggests the garden sprayers are the hot setup for filling the tranny ,and as he suggested to put fluid in, once it starts to come out (pan initial filled) start car and proceed. As a side bar to this when you do get pan off then is the time to fashion the tip nozzle of the sprayer so that you can easily get it up into and easily out of the overflow pipe/fill port. The reason temperature is noted as once it is warmed up the fluid makes its way from the tranny to the upper part of the segregated section of the radiator which holds more fluid. Once car is turned off it eventually makes its way back to reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Update

I finally had gotten around to do complete trans filter, gasket and fluid change today. Placed 4 stands as advised, drained fluid, and removed all the bolts to pan with a hand impact driver. That tool I suggest is a must if doing job. Couple of taps with a hammer and all bolts unloosened with ease.




Removed pan but not before loosening fill plug. Dropped pan and removed filter.


**As a side note, I did notice some of the bolts to the pan were loose and was able to hand turn without driver. There is were I noticed the sides of the pan with leaked trans fluid which probably was going on for some time causing the fluid to slowly come out over time, ultimately causing my issues.


Fluid was dirty as suspected and probably the original fluid as the original gasket was still in place. No metal shavings, just some sludge on the magnets. Cleaned out pan, magnets, and the pan bolts with some brake cleaner. I used a wire brush to go along edges of pan and trans case to make sure a smooth surface prepped for new gasket. Replaced new gasket and drain plug and removed fill plug and changed new gasket there as well.


Placed two of the bolts on opposite ends of pan as I put new rubber gasket on pan and put pan up so they can hold in place the gasket. With a little patience, I got all the bolts started making sure bolts going through gasket holes correctly. I then used my cordless drill to slowly snug in the bolts in a star pattern to make sure that there was no bulging of the gasket. I think this gasket will be better as it was not the cheap paper as it is a much thicker rubber one.


I then used a torque wrench to tighten bolts, again, in a star pattern at 10 n.m. Placed my hand pump apparatus that I created using some extra fuel line tubing to add along with an S shaped rubber hose which I hung in the fill plug hole. I used the $10 pump from autozone that fits on quart and half gallon bottles.


Took some time pumping, but when I got 5 quarts in, I noticed small drip of fluid out of fill hole. I turned car on and shifted through each gear at 10 second intervals including in reverse pattern. After that, I left car on in park and continued to fill pan with approximately 2 more quarts of the recommended Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Car was up to temp as I had let the car run for a short while before I began the remaining 2 quarts added. Small line of fluid draining out, then replaced the filler plug. No leaks noticed around gasket.


Dropped car back down off of jacks and took for a test spin on highway. Trans shifting felt much smoother and no limp mode at all. Even actually noticed to be getting better gas mileage on highway.

All in all, I figured issues was result of low fluid from progressive leak never addressed before as well as fluid being old and probably original. Car has 169000 miles and I'm sure my car finally thanked me for that long overdue job. All the advice given on this post was heeded. With a little time and patience, saved me hundreds if not thousands of dollars if I had taken it to shop or stealership who would have wanted to change out many parts not related to a simple trans fluid, filter, and gasket change.

Thank you so much community and will keep my fingers crossed that I don't have to put on my mechanics hat for a while!
 

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congratulations you are now a certified Passat transmission tech.! glad to hear, two suggestions for future reference, stick around for more help and to give pointers to the next owner with similar symptoms. As to next time you have 'er up on jack stands do a looksie and if necessary add to fluid, just in case leak was/is somewhere else, and get any additional fluid in ,assuring all the nooks and crannys got filled. of course it will be a "piece of cake " this time....Passsssaaaaat Awaaaay !
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Update:

I wanted to follow up with fix to my issue with limp mode. I had to critically think about what things occurred just prior to my initial problems. I had changed the oil and filter and thought about when I removed the filter I tipped it over slightly to remove it out of top of engine bay. When I did that some oil had poured out and onto the parts below in the engine bay.

The reason I had to circle back to this is because I had gotten code p0716 again on obdII, but without any issues with limp mode after my trans oil, filter and gasket change. This had happened a couple of times even after clearing codes. Thanks to cchief22 and some further talk offline about potential problems I decided to do the simple thing first. I jacked up car and looked at 16 pin harness and trans sensor harness located right below where I had assumed that the oil had spilled over. I was going to do ohm and continuity tests but decided to do the simple thing first as a process of elimination.

I had bought some CRC electrical cleaner and thoroughly saturated both plugs. When I did, tons of oil and dirt had fallen down. I wiped everything with some rags and did so again til most of dirt and oil was removed. I then unplugged both connections and saturated both sides completely again until stream was clear. I did inside the boot of 16 pin connection pin as I had noticed that this was off the harness casing and figured the oil spilled found its way into that area as well. Copious amount of oil and dirt had both fell down and did so again til spraying became clear. Dried everything again with rags until no residual dirt or oil was present. I reconnected the boot back to harness and used a zip tie to secure it on the harness perfectly. No more accidental boot coming undone there. Looking at harness plug and other side of connections, they were both pristine and bright connections once again. I reconnected plugs and lowered car. Took her for a spin and did so for the last few days without code coming on or issue with limp mode happening again.

Even though my car needed trans service done, I can with full confidence say that the oil spilled was the likely culprit as it seeped down into the disconnected boot and into the wiring harness and connection points. I will keep fingers cross, but I think this may have fixed the issue.

I wanted to follow up because I felt it necessary to show that it could be the littlest things that cause issues and you may have to just sit and think on what was happening just prior to this issue. I also wanted to give follow up info because many times I don't see people coming back and advising what was ultimate fix.

Thanks again for the community help, esp. cchief22, and hope that if you are having this issue to give you some hope of easy fix.

Now if it happens again I will be testing the ohms and continuity of wiring. Good luck all and Passat on!
 

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Update:

I wanted to follow up with fix to my issue with limp mode. I had to critically think about what things occurred just prior to my initial problems. I had changed the oil and filter and thought about when I removed the filter I tipped it over slighting to remove it out of top of engine bay. When I did that some oil had poured out and onto the parts below in the engine bay.

The reason I had to circle back to this is because I had gotten code p0716 again on obdII, but without any issues with limp mode after my trans oil, filter and gasket change. This had happened a couple of times even after clearing codes. Thanks to cchief22 and some further talk offline about potential problems I decided to do the simple thing first. I jacked up car and looked at 16 pin harness and trans sensor harness located right below where I had assumed that the oil had spilled over. I was going to do ohm and continuity tests but decided to do the simple thing first as a process of elimination.

I had bought some CRC electrical cleaner and thoroughly saturated both plugs. When I did, tons of oil and dirt had fallen down. I wiped everything with some rags and did so again til most of dirt and oil was removed. I then unplugged both connections and saturated both sides completely again until stream was clear. I did inside the boot of 16 pin connection pin as I had noticed that this was off the harness casing and figured the oil spilled found its way into that area as well. Copious amount of oil and dirt had both fell down and did so again til spraying became clear. Dried everything again with rags until no residual dirt or oil was present. I reconnected the boot back to harness and used a zip tie to secure it on the harness perfectly. No more accidental boot coming undone there. Looking at harness plug and other side of connections, they were both pristine and bright connections once again. I reconnected plugs and lowered car. Took her for a spin and did so for the last few days without code coming on or issue with limp mode happening again.

Even though my car needed trans service done, I can with full confidence say that the oil spilled was the likely culprit as it seeped down into the disconnected boot and into the wiring harness and connection points. I will keep fingers cross, but I think this may have fixed the issue.

I wanted to follow up because I felt it necessary to show that it could be the littlest things that cause issues and you may have to just sit and think on what was happening just prior to this issue. I also wanted to give follow up info because many times I don't see people coming back and advising what was ultimate fix.

Thanks again for the community help, esp. cchief22, and hope that if you are having this issue to give you some hope of easy fix.

Now if it happens again I will be testing the ohms and continuity of wiring. Good luck all and Passat on!
Thanks for posting up the fix. ⭐
 
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