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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm a previous long term Audi A6 owner, so I'm very familiar with this powertrain. (except my A6 had the AHA engine with quattro, whereas this Passat has the ATQ with FWD.) So...we bought this 2002 GLX with 153K miles for my step-daughter to use and eventually own after she turns 18 (and for me to use to sometimes commute with). It has a dubious / unknown maintenance record that I got for really cheap. I already know its dubious because the coolant is the wrong color, and the timing belt tensioner is shot and the timing belt skipped a tooth.

I hand rotated the crank with the belt covers off and confirmed that the engine rotates freely with the timing intact and turning, so I'm not really worried about the valves.

So where's what I plan to do:

1) Timing belt job with water pump, bought the enhanced + kit from Blauparts. I'm inclined to think I'll have to do the front crank seal too, saw evidence of oil leaks but haven't pinpointed them all. I also am going to replace the serp belt tensionor along with the new belt. I haven't had a chance to evaluate the fan clutch yet, but I've had good experience in the past with OEM VAG fan clutches not failing or leaking the viscous fluid. I've also had good luck refurbishing fan clutches with a bit of Toyota silicone viscous fluid, if I can still find it...
2) Valve cover gaskets and cam seal, again, Blauparts kit.
3) Complete cooling system flush, including heater core and engine block and radiator. I am making a special tool that'll emulate a Gates flush gun with my hose and air compressor...., will likely run some distilled water for a hundred miles or so in order to ensure complete flush and new passivation of the heat exchange surfaces after using a citric acid based flushing agent and CLR.... then flush again and replace with G-12.
4) Replace all the cooling hoses and radiator hoses and expansion tank. The old hoses are VERY old. Didn't see any signs of bulging, but they are contaminated with the improper coolant anyway. Including the hoses to the oil cooler, and will replace the oil cooler seal to the gallery while I'm at it.
5) Replace all the PCV flexible hoses and valve. Since I'm going to be in there for the TB anyway.
6) Flush crankcase oil after I get everything buttoned back up. Will likely run some 'throw away oil' to further flush out any contaminants for a few hundred miles before I put on a good filter and synthetic (Royal Purple filter with fiberglass media -rated at 99% at 25 microns and larger, 98.7% at 20 microns and larger, 80% at 10 microns and larger... best efficiency available on the market locally, and Liqui Moly 5W-40 oil.)
7) New spark plugs... wires looked fine though.
8) Transmission drain, new filter, new fluid. Thinking about using a 'compatible' synthetic ATF fluid to run for a 100 miles or so and flush it, then drain and back to the Ravoline to refill.
9) Flush and bleed all the brake lines with new DOT 4 synthetic. Pads had plenty of meat left on them and the discs look good.
10) Drain, flush and refill the power steering fluid.
11) Replace air intake and cabin air filters... check for water leaks around plenum / cabin air filter housing and use some compressed air to blow out the sunroof drains
12) New fuel filter
13) ??? What am I overlooking???

BTW, I've been turning my own wrenches for over 30 years, motorcycles, trucks, cars. I'm also a mechanical engineer and system engineer in the nuclear industry, so lets just say I'm knowledgeable about quite a lot, yet greatly value other's experience and lessons learned.

So basically I'm looking for a sanity check, and for what else I need to consider and examine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmmm..... now there's an idea.... smoke out my neighborhood! :) Mixed feelings about Seafoam... I've no issues using it as a flushing agent in the oil, or adding it to the fuel tank (that and Marvel Mystery Oil), but sucking it into the brake inlet vacuum and making a smoke screen you could advance an Infantry battalion through.... well, that makes me a little nervous... especially if I were to feed it a bit too fast and cause a hydrolock, or it otherwise dies on me and I'm stuck somewhere... cause I sure as hell not going to do that anywhere near my house! But definitely worth considering, thanks.
 

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Last time I used seafoam I used seafoam spray. All you do is rev the car up a little bit and spray until the can is empty. The can has directions on it. Simple and as long as the revs are up it shouldn't stall
 

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I'd not be inclined to use Seafoam, because from what I've read, it is just Kerosene, which is why the smoke cloud. Besides, unless the rings are bad, modern fuel-injected engines don't tend to have a carbon problem in the first place.
 

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^I believe a combination of poor fuel quality combined with extended periods of idling and short trips causes piston ring packs to get stuck (thus the need for a Seafoam Ring Pack treatment).

Given where the OP lives, it's probably wise to avoid Seafoam (that is, if you can still buy Seafoam in WA state).

To the OP: If the front main seal isn't weeping or dripping oil, I'd leave it alone. Front and rear main seals can fail, but these tend to mostly occur in locales that have harsh winters. Harsh as in IA, NE, IL, MN, WI etc.

One more thing, be sure to buy your new coolant expansion tank from the dealership...because cheap coolant tanks are typically the most expensive coolant expansion tanks especially since a family member will be driving the car!

...and don't even think of attempting any timing belt work without the crankshaft locking tool and the bar that locks both camshafts. The crankshaft tool seems to require some ass to get it installed correctly (from what I've read), as the crankshaft will need to be moved a hair to be positioned properly (and apparently the tool can be improperly postioned, but "look" OK), so double check it.

Plenty of other engineers on this board besides us.

Good Luck :beer:
 

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the 2.8 doesn't need seafoam. also, the ATQ isn't that much different than the AHA - mostly changes in the PCV system, which you'll see when you're doing it. pretty much everything else is the same.

if the motor is leaking around the front crank seal, you'll know it when you get to it - there will be crusted oil all down the lower front of the engine and the oil pan - been there, done that.

if after you get it running and there's an occasional misfire, run some Techron thru it - no substitutes. the 2.8 tends to get a sticky injector or two about once a year or so, and some Techron in 1/4 tank of gas will resolve it.
 

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I bought an identical GLX wagon 6 months ago, with 175K miles. Maintenance was spotty by the previous owner, so I went ahead to change the timing and serpentine belts (Blauparts kit, as well). It still drives well, accelerates briskly and shifts smoothly for a car, now 15 years old. The only problems I have had with it are a CEL (a known problem with the upstream O2 sensor) and a heater core with very brittle inlet and outlet pipes which are made of plastic. I have already broken pieces of the these pipes from my attempts to flush the heater core. So be careful when you do that flush. You might also want to invest in a VAG-com cable (Ross Tech) to locate and identify any problems stored in the various computers controls of the car.
 

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Pretty close to what I had to do to my '00 B5 2.8L, expept for tranny fluid change, only because I was lucky to find 5 speed.
Good luck with your project, don't forget to check for any suspension imperfections, lower control arms on B5's are prone to failing & making noises.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the replies everyone. I failed to mention that I do have a VAGCOM, but haven't run the scan yet because the battery is dead, plus I don't care what codes are stored at this point because I'm going to be correcting quite a lot anyway.

I haven't even begun to worry about the suspension control arms yet because I don't want to think about that upper pinch bolt until I finish everything else first... In the past I remember days and days of penetrating oil and finally having to use my 'smoke wrench' on it to get it to break free. I have noticed that the front shocks seem bouncy, so when I get into that mess it'll be the full meal deal, all control arms, sway bar end links, and I'll have to rent a spring compressor to replace the shocks and bushings.

So far in my tear down I've noted that it had a pretty bad valve cover or cam seal leak on the passenger side, and yep, the front crank seal is a goner. The water pump had evidence of leakage at the bottom of the gasket. I was able to clean up the sealing face easy enough last night with a angle grinder medium and fine grit pad, but now I've got to flush the block again as I didn't really take care to keep the grit and swarf out of the water pump cavity.

I'm going to have to replace every single vacuum line as I found several broken. I have an order of silicon vacuum line on the way. So I'm planning on removing the intake plenum now so I can get to it all in addition to making the replacement of the PCV components easier. Should I worry about the coolant pipe seals under the intake plenum and back of the motor as well?
 

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Should I worry about the coolant pipe seals under the intake plenum and back of the motor as well?
Conventional wisdom says yes, replace the O-rings. However, when I had the intake off my 3.0 to change the big plastic coolant pipe thing, I just cleaned the rings, judged that they were OK, and reused them. Right before installing I applied some Silicone gasket sealant to them, and have no leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
huh, if I pull the intake plenum, I'll need new o-rings for the injectors... sigh, might as well add cleaning the injectors to my to do list.

So far, my biggest concern was one of the worst things I've ever encountered on a car before: I absolutely could not get the oil filter off with my oil filter strap wrench. Actually, I tried two different strap wrenches on it, which halfway crushed the filter, yet still didn't come off with all the grunt I could apply with that tool. I had to resort to getting my 36 inch out, and that still took a lot of grunt. I've never seen anything like it! The oil draining out had a lot of metallic dust in it... which leads me to think that filter hadn't been changed in quite a while because it was stuck on... and in bypass because it was so full... so there's that... Last night I took off the oil cooler without any issue, except the seal to the crankcase cracked and broke... so I'm glad I already planned on replacing it. I'm going to flush it out and try and pressure test it.

Which reminds me, I need to get out my parts washer... don't know if I have any degreaser / cleaner for it on hand. This whole thing has turned into a really big project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You know, I do have a method on hand to help restore rubber seals. I have a large glass jar on my work bench filled with a mixture of 99% isopropyl alcohol, a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil, and pure oil of wintergreen (capped tightly of course, else my entire house would smell of wintergreen). It works wonders to soften hardened rubber, like the hard as rock carburetor boots on my motorcycle last time I rebuilt the carbs. Now they are back to being soft and pliable. I treated them with silicon and they are in great shape. Have to be careful with o-rings and the like because it'll quickly cause them to swell and change dimensions. I found that out the hard way when I successfully restored the seals on my fuel petcock... they swelled up, and I had to let them sit and dry out for a few days before the dimension came back down enough to install.... but it worked! If anyone wants the secret formula to this magical elixir, please let me know, its easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I figure I'm going to use this thread for a documentation log. Just cleaned the oil cooler. I used some diluted CLR on the water side, let it sit for a bit then flushed it with hot water really well. On the oil side it's a lot more challenging. Initially I cleaned the outside of the cooler with some degreaser and a brush, then sprayed the degreaser on the inside fins as best as I could through the three holes. Some globules of oil came out... then I resorted to some dish soap and hot water, and a whole lot more globules came out... after about 10 minutes of dish soap, hot water, flushing, I wasn't seeing any more oil come out. I then shook it out as best as I could, then wedged paper towels as best as I could in the center hole and one side of the two smaller outer holes and filled it with denatured alcohol. Don't want residual water in there to contaminate the oil. After flushing with the denatured alcohol as best as I could, I pulled the paper towels out and shook it out as best as I could then set it outside in the sun to dry. I used some compressed air and blew some more out. Then I got creative and put the cooler in my grill on the back patio. I heated it up to about 275F and now I'm letting it cool. That should do the trick to drive off any residual alcohol / water left in it. Other than being dirty, it wasn't really sludged up and I can't see any evidence of damage now that its clean. When I had it sitting with CLR in the water side I didn't see any evidence of leakage. So now after it cools off it'll be good to go and reinstall with a new seal, good as new. Of course I'm installing new hoses too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
DAGNABBIT!!! I lost the pics I took of all the vacuum hose routing, and I can't find it anywhere in the Bentley manual (two volume hardback edition)... I simply can't find anything. Like specifically, where do the Kombi valves hook up to, where is the T connector with the two small hoses at the back of the intake plenum routed to, which solenoid does the change over valve actuator hook to?

HELP???
 
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