Volkswagen Passat Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I got the dreaded flashing CEL on my 99 passat (1.8T) and got the car towed to the local dealer. true to form he charged me $180 for running the diagnostics!!! wish i had read this forum before taking it to the stealership :(

anyways, he is quoting $415 for the new ICU,as it needs to be replace. The part number is 4D090535. I looked at the parts of busdepot.com, where it is quoted at $115. Anyone ever bought stuff from this site: would appreciate their input on this site.

Another place is stopshopanddrive.com where it is quoted at $98 but the part number is different: VW073566
On searching for the part # 4D090535 it gives me two options:
VW073566

CONTROL UNIT

1 In Stock $386.70 $115.98 Add to Cart

BH071461

Bosch CONTROL UNIT

1 In Stock $254.54


Which one is the OEM part.


would hugely appreciate any feedback from knowledgeable folks out there. the car is at the dealer now, and he has agreed to put in any part I get, as long as it is a VW part!

thx!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Buy the cheap one, it's the HUCO brand. I did, at busdepot, and I couldn't be happier. Besides, it was the Bosch that was defective in the first place 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
blaupassat said:
Buy the cheap one, it's the HUCO brand. I did, at busdepot, and I couldn't be happier. Besides, it was the Bosch that was defective in the first place 8)
thx. will do that. never wanted to pay $417 to the stealership !!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
DrivinAJetta said:
I was wondering - How many miles are you at? All these posts about ICM failues has me worried.
I'm only at 46000 miles. purchased the car 08/1999
Called the VW customer service to take care of this problem, all they said is for a car of this age (!!) they cannot help me, as I am out of warranty (hell i knew that)

friends around using cars of other makes (specially japanese) haven't even heard of engine/electrical problems in their cars (running for > 10 years).

vw needs to own up to something here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,132 Posts
Search to find a post on how to test your ICM with diagrams. All you need is a multimeter. I replaced mine at 60,000 miles. THe replacement is easy - I only wish I had had the ICM overnighted - I waited 4 days without me car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
450 Posts
Mine died at 60k. If only I had read the forums before hand, I could have saved lots of $$$. Now I am waiting for VWoA to refund me the charges. :mad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Mine went two weeks ago at 37K. I bought my Huco replacement from Stopshopanddrive for $98. You probably saw my thread about this topic.

The ICM install took me five minutes, and that was because it was night, freezing cold and I was using a flashlight. It's simply use an allen wrench or leftover IKEA tool to remove the two screws holding in the Bosch ICM, press down on the spring clips holding the wires to it, and remove the ICM. It will take the dealer minutes, but they will charge you at least half an hour for that service. Check your invoice carefully though, or let them know beforehand that it's a simple and fast install and should not take an hour!

Gimps, how are you getting VWoA to refund the charges?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
organicdonut said:
Mine went two weeks ago at 37K. I bought my Huco replacement from Stopshopanddrive for $98. You probably saw my thread about this topic.

The ICM install took me five minutes, and that was because it was night, freezing cold and I was using a flashlight. It's simply use an allen wrench or leftover IKEA tool to remove the two screws holding in the Bosch ICM, press down on the spring clips holding the wires to it, and remove the ICM. It will take the dealer minutes, but they will charge you at least half an hour for that service. Check your invoice carefully though, or let them know beforehand that it's a simple and fast install and should not take an hour!

Gimps, how are you getting VWoA to refund the charges?
those stealers already charged me $180 to run the diagnostics :)
i did read ur earlier thread on it: wish i had done before taking the car to the stealer!!
and he has quoted $120 for the labour to replace the ICM and a spark plug for cylinder #2! i'll do it myself, but now i need to pay another $60 or some such just to get the car towed back from the dealer: yikes, what a trap!

lesson learnt: always check up b5 forums before going to the stealer ever!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Yeah, no way I would have figured any of what I ended up doing for the car, without Clubb5 and the fantastic people who share their expertise here.

You might want join your local AAA, which will cost the same as one tow, and then have the benefits of the membership, and not just one tow back from the dealer. I think the more expensive membership will get you a flatbed and towing to/from the dealer of your choice within 100 miles. The basic membership only gets you 3 miles, and they probably won't send you a flatbed. You'll also have to wait forever on the basic.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
organicdonut said:
Yeah, no way I would have figured any of what I ended up doing for the car, without Clubb5 and the fantastic people who share their expertise here.

You might want join your local AAA, which will cost the same as one tow, and then have the benefits of the membership, and not just one tow back from the dealer. I think the more expensive membership will get you a flatbed and towing to/from the dealer of your choice within 100 miles. The basic membership only gets you 3 miles, and they probably won't send you a flatbed. You'll also have to wait forever on the basic.

Good luck!
actually i do have free towing available thru my insurance (farmer's). so i do have the option of getting the car towed back to my home for free and save the $120 the stealership is going to charge me!

i want to know if i need to reset any codes or some such after the replacing the ICM and the spark plug. I don't have access to VAG-COM and I don't want to make another trip to the stealer if any codes need to be reset.

Also do I need to disconnect the battery to replace the ICM.

And how easy/difficult is to replace a spark plug for cylinder # 1.

Thx for all the input guys. Keep it coming.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,156 Posts
If you got a check engine light then the ECU will keep it on steady for a few starts. If it didn't turn on the CEL you may have a code stored in the ECU but it's not a big deal.

Changing the spark plugs is not difficult at all. Remove the plastic engine cover, use a 6 or 8mm (I can't remember which) allen wrench to remove the coilpack, use a standard spark plug socket to remove the spark plug and do the reverse. I recommend using a little duct tape around the spark plug socket and extension because it tends to pop off when you pull the plug. Don't do it when the car is hot and don't overtorque the spark plug (it's an aluminum head).


For the ICM you should disconnect the battery as a liability protection. It is on the top of the airbox under the plastic cover, squeeze together the metal clips on the electrical connectors and remove. Then use a 5mm (IIRC) socket to remove the two bolts. You should also buy some dielectric grease to put on the bottom of the new ICM (it has a heatsink in the airbox).
 

·
PassatWorld Staff
Joined
·
12,267 Posts
blaupassat said:
...Besides, it was the Bosch that was defective in the first place 8)
I don't think the Bosch units are defective - it's the mounting location that's defective. These units receive a LOT of heat from the turbo, and I wouldn't be surprised if the new units go bad after a similar number of miles. You'll note on the B5.5 that they relocated it, and you never hear about one going bad on a 5.5 (just the coilpacks! ouch!)

I had to replace mine at 57K, and immediately went about heat-sheilding the whole airbox area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
But how could the Germans of all people make a mistake like placing the ICM on the turbo? Turbo = hot. Even I know that.

When I took off the old ICM, I noticed that the thermal grease was all dried up and gone. Maybe it got all brittle from the cold and then the drastic temperature changes from cold to turbo hot cooked it?

I think I asked in a previous post and thread about when the thermal grease needs to be reapplied, since it is not mentioned anywhere in the manual and is not a maintenance item. I think I will buy a tub of it and replace it every year or so.

I also noticed that the Huco part has a much thicker aluminum heat sink.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
srg

Wow people are responding quickly to this thread! The only thing to watch for when starting the car after you do the spark plugs and ICM install following the directions about, is that you might have trouble starting the car after you disconnect the battery. I searched here and on VWVortex for a definitive answer, but couldn't find one. Some folks had no problems with starting after a battery disconnect, some did.

Mine might have been a frozen fuel line from sitting around all week after the trouble started. Could be an unrelated issue. Another member, VWFool had the same problem, and he said the dealer had to do something to get the car started. VWFool and his friend even tried using a VAG-Com, but that didn't work. Funny.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,609 Posts
ganseg said:
Search to find a post on how to test your ICM with diagrams. All you need is a multimeter. I replaced mine at 60,000 miles. THe replacement is easy - I only wish I had had the ICM overnighted - I waited 4 days without me car.

Wouldn't this test only tell you if the ICM is bad *after* it has gone bad - when the CEL is flashing and you are stranded?
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top