[306097]

Bought my '02 Passat 2 weeks ago today, and I have some issues.

1st: the check engine light is on, an the shop I usually go to couldn't scan "deep enough" to pinpoint the actual problem, but they said it is pointing to the 'secondary air injection'. what is this and what can I do to fix it?

2nd: The ABS light is on, and the BRAKE light is flashing. I was told that these operate together, but the ABS light was lit during the test drive, but the BRAKE light wasn't. The BRAKE light came on only AFTER the parking brake was used. I read the owners manual and it said this means the parking brake isn't fully released, but it has been checked and is functioning normally. The front brakes were replaced 2 days ago (they were down to 15%) and the shops scanner pointed to the ABS pump, but again, couldn't go deep enough.

There isn't a Volkswagen dealer near me (closest is 25 miles away) so it isn't practical for me to go unless there is no other option. Looking for suggestions that I can try myself before biting the bullet and going to a dealer.

Thanks in advance.

 

[boyesreef]

by the sounds of it, the ABS module has failed. welcome to the 90%! do a quick search on ABS module failure and you will find how to take it out and how to get it repaired. WELCOME TO PASSATWORLD!

 

[Electron Man]

Does Ohio have emissions checks? The Sec. Air Injection system injects extra air (oxygen) to get the catalytic converter up to temperature quicker. If you leave it as is, there is no damage potential (unless you need no CELs for state emissions check).

 

[306097]

Electron man: No, Ohio doesn't have emissions checks that I know of. I just want the CEL to go away. If something else goes wrong, I wouldn't know it if the light is always on.

 

[306097]

Boyesreef: Ok, thanks. I'll do that. I just hope I have the tools/time to do it. No garage, and while it may be 70 today, tomorrow it goes down to the 30's with a chance of snow showers.

 

[boyesreef]

AudiWorld Tech Articles

heres a good walk through

 

[Ray]

Second on abs failure, easy fix...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[y2000passat]

The brake light is probably a fault with a switch that detects when you set the parking brake - it's not turning the light off.

ABS control module is one of many common Passat problems. Hope you are a DIY-er or you may be in for a very expensive ride. This site can help you be one.

 

[jjpark]

If you plan on keeping the car and working on it yourself I strongly suggest you get a 401.9 cable off EBay, download the free 'Lite' version of the Ross-Tech. DO NOT use any disk that come with the cable. This way you can scan for codes on your laptop yourself and have a better understanding of what's going on.

Get the Bentely Repair manuals (2 books for about $100) if you are going to be turning the wrenches yourself. Stay away from the Chiltons and the other manuals

I agree that your ABS module is prolly faulty. You can still drive the car with it out for repair. Repair shop may tell you no you can't (liability issue on them)
Welcome!!!!! You can try unplugging it then have the shop scan it again to see if they can get more from the scan. A faulty ABS mod can prevent scanners from reading.

 

[306097]

Thanks to all for the replies/suggestions, and sorry it took so long. The site wouldn't accept my password and it took a week to get it fixed >_<

Weather turned bad and doesn't look like it's going to get better anytime before April. Without a garage, it looks like I may have to bite the bullet and pay someone else to do the fix(es).

 

[jjpark]

If you are taking it somewhere to be worked on. I strongly recommend you go to someone who specializes with VW/Audi's. Get referrals as the particular shop. Too many shops 'think' they know what they're doing with these cars.

 

[OKCPinoy]

One of the benefits of joining a forum such as this is that I find members are often willing to come by to help if they are in your locale. Check the membership list to see if there is someone close by who could offer advice. It is one more option for you.

 

[306097]

Ok, I admit it, I'M AN IDIOT! On a hunch, I checked the ABS fuse and it was burned out. Replaced it with a new 10 amp fuse and the ABS and BRAKE lights went off. I'm an idiot because that was the 1st thing I should have checked. Just proves that you should start with the simple things first.

Now if only the secondary air injection system could be fixed as easily...

 

[Iowegian]

Secondary air injection pump (SAIP) is for smog only as mentioned above but I know what you mean about wanting the CEL to go away....

There is a relay and 40A fuse for the SAIP in a little black box under the cowling in front of the driver. There are about 5 8mm bolts holding it together. The main ECU is in here too so be aware of that when you open it up (keep it dry, etc...). One quick thing to try would be to replace the relay. They are undersized and the contacts tend to erode over time leading to intermittent operation of the pump.

The basics of the SAIP are as follows:

When you start the car (and it is cold?) the relay engages and turns on the pump. The pump forces air into the exhaust through the 'combi' valve. This added air increases combustion/operation of the catalytic converter which helps with cold emissions. The system is tested several minutes after startup by the ECU by engaging the pump and checking for the effects of the added injected air at the 02 sensors. If this test fails, your CEL will be turned on with an SAIP code.

There are several possible causes of failure:

1) bad fuse or relay causing the pump to not operate. You should be able to hear it when it is on and it should be on for ~2min every time you start the car. The pump is near the front passenger wheel.
2) bad hoses between the pump and the combi valve. There are some plastic hoses coming from the pump that route up to the combi valve. The combi valve (on a 1.8T) is at the top rear of the cylinder head and is a small silver canister.
3) bad combi valve or bad solenoid or bad relay or bad vacuum lines. The combi valve is 'opened' to allow the passage of air from the pump into the exhaust with vacuum that is supplied via a relay/solenoid that is under the air intake manifole (1.8T). If this solenoid isn't operating or the vacuum is not sufficient or the combi valve is not working it will not open up to allow the pumped air into the exhaust stream and you will get a CEL.

Finally, if the combi valve is stuck open or if the air hoses are leaking you may have water in your pump. This will ruin the pump and throw a CEL. In this case, you will need to replace the pump AND fix the cause of the water in the pump or you will just ruin the new pump.

For trouble shooting - check if the pump runs when the car is started. If not, check pump, fuse and relay.
If the pump is running, check the combi valve to see if it opens/shuts when pump is running/off. If not, check vacuum lines and solenoid.
Also check the air hoses from pump to combi valve to be sure they are sealed.

All this stuff is in the Bentley and while the book is expensive, if you are planning to keep the car it will pay for itself many times over.

Good luck!

 

[306097]

Thank you Iowegian! That is a big help. 1st chance I get, I'll get into it. Work has been crazy this past week, which is why it has taken so long to read your post. I'm not getting to bed until 4am and by the time I get up, I have time for some coffee before going to work again. >_<. I'm off tomorrow so wish me luck! Thanks again.

 

[84urq20v]

Regarding the secondary air injection - It is my understanding that keeping it functional can help reduce carbon build up on the 2.8 motors (note to the OP - and assuming you have the V6 2.8 and if you don't you can probably disregard this whole post lol - don't start your car for like 5 seconds (like to move forward in a parking spot) and then shut off right away - it may not start next time you try - there are online procedures about this - you have to remove the fuel pump relay, crank it over, let it sit....anyway - I digress). We replaced the pump that my code reader said was bad - passenger side. The pump itself wasn't too bad price wise - got it from FCP Euro - but the install was a PITA - in that I got 95% of the way there (removal of old) and got hung up on something and said F it. car was going into mech for something else anyway. If the car is a long term keeper - for us it is - we've had it 10 yrs -it is worth keeping everything working properly Once you let one thing go than you let another...then it snowballs. It is still, overall, such a solid, reliable, comfortable, capable family car. Slow. But such a great car.

PS - Dealers are great if your car is under warranty - otherwise find a good independent in your area who truly knows VW/Audi cars. They are out there.

Brandon
'00 Audi S4 K04s etc
'91 911 Turbo
'03 Passat Wagon 4Mo

 

[Wharfrat]

Just bought a 2000 v6 auto and have had a few problems. Had to change the fuel pump last week. Wasnt to bad because of the great access. But ever since then it has been starting strange. Sometimes it starts right up and others I have to crank for 10+ seconds. Doesn't matter if its hot or cold. Can anyone offer some advice?

Also, my windows wont roll down on either side. My local VW guy at O'Reilly says its the plastic strip under the window on the regulator and not the whole regulator itself. Said they are hella cheap but I can't find where to order that piece. I don't want to fork over all the dough for two new front regulators if I can fix it for like 5 bucks and a few hours of "fun" with door panels. Can anyone help?!?!

Thanks in advance.

Wharfrat out....

 

[jjpark]

Just bought a 2000 v6 auto and have had a few problems. Had to change the fuel pump last week. Wasnt to bad because of the great access. But ever since then it has been starting strange. Sometimes it starts right up and others I have to crank for 10+ seconds. Doesn't matter if its hot or cold. Can anyone offer some advice?

Also, my windows wont roll down on either side. My local VW guy at O'Reilly says its the plastic strip under the window on the regulator and not the whole regulator itself. Said they are hella cheap but I can't find where to order that piece. I don't want to fork over all the dough for two new front regulators if I can fix it for like 5 bucks and a few hours of "fun" with door panels. Can anyone help?!?!

Thanks in advance.

Wharfrat out....

It would be best to start a new thread with what is going on with yours. It gets very confusing to try and help either person when someone piggybacks on another persons posting especially with unrelated issues.

 

[Wharfrat]

Sorry. Didn't do it out of disrespect or for confusion. My bad. ?

 

[technolud]

Secondary air pump replacement isn't too tough. Changed it on a 1.8T in about 2 hours.