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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
B5 1.8T automatic, both original VW engine mounts were shot (passenger side was bleeding barney blood and driver side was dried out probably a while ago)

I replaced both engine mounts this past weekend with Meyle engine mounts for 1.8T.

This morning I noticed that my steering wheel vibrates more than ever at red light stops (the vibration starts after coming to a full stop and leaving tranny in "D"; the vibration would go away if shift into "N" or "P").

Is more vibration normal with new engine mount? I doubt so, otherwise why should I replace the old ones?

I am sure I torqued all bolts either to Bentley manual spec or sufficiently tight. So what might be wrong?

- new engine mount has break-in period?
- the mounts I have is not good?
 

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does that apply if I did not touch snub mount when doing engine mounts? (I drop the lower engine mount brackets, one side at a time, and paid attention to their alignment)
Yes because the engine moved when you relaced the engine mounts. This can cause the snub mount to shift slightly in the housing. If it is touching the housing you will get plenty of vibration at idle.

When ever replacing any of the mounts(engine/transmission) it is always best to loosen the other mounts including the snub mount housing, then allow the engine idle a little bit and even give it a little rev up to allow the motor to settle back to "center".
 

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When ever replacing any of the mounts(engine/transmission) it is always best to loosen the other mounts including the snub mount housing, then allow the engine idle a little bit and even give it a little rev up to allow the motor to settle back to "center".
how does one loosen the snub mount? what exact bolts do i need to loosen up?
i m doing my (v6) engine mount as we speak and would like to do that adjustment as well..
 

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One of my friends had the same issue on a Peugeot (i know it's not VW, but you might have the same). The new supports have been a few millimeters bigger then the old ones so the engine vibration was transmitted through them to the main body. There has to be a small gap between the two sides and the mounting (between the rubber and metal). See if you have it.... we ended up sanding the rubber a bit.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
...There has to be a small gap between the two sides and the mounting (between the rubber and metal). ...
Don't know what that means.

On a side note, the original driver side mount did not have a soft gray rubber cover, while the passenger side mount did have a cover. I left covers on both side when install new mounts. I doubt that is causing vibration though. For now, I will wait for a couple of weeks to see how they break in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes because the engine moved when you relaced the engine mounts. This can cause the snub mount to shift slightly in the housing. If it is touching the housing you will get plenty of vibration at idle.
I checked. it is not touching the side of housing.

When ever replacing any of the mounts(engine/transmission) it is always best to loosen the other mounts including the snub mount housing, then allow the engine idle a little bit and even give it a little rev up to allow the motor to settle back to "center".
I can see how this apply to engine mounts and tranny mounts. but for snub mount (which is not really a mount), wouldn't that loosening and running the engine actually cause the plate to move and to touch the snub mount due to gravity? I could be wrong - just trying to understand how it works before I set out.
 

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but for snub mount (which is not really a mount), wouldn't that loosening and running the engine actually cause the plate to move and to touch the snub mount due to gravity?
Any time you do something that moves the engine or moves the snub carrier, you need to re-adjust the snub mount.

The snub mount limits "pitch" movement of the engine/transaxle assembly as it torques against the wheels.

You want the snub to be centered in the carrier at idle. This will limit the amount of engine vibration conducted to the body. When you hit the gas to accelerate, the engine will pitch back, the snub will come into contact with the carrier and limit engine pitch movement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Steve, thanks for the explanation. :thumbup:

How to perform the adjustment in practice? For snub mount, I double that anyone could :wrench: around it while engine is running. I have not seen description of such in PW or in Haynes/Bentley.

for adjusting engine mounts, do you just loosen one mounting nuts (for each engine mounts), turn engine on, and then turn engine off and re-tighten? or do you re-tighten it while engine is idling?

thanks again to all!
 

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You dont have to adjust them while the car is running. You just run the engine while the mounts and snub housing are loose. After that you turn the engine off and tighten all the mounts and snub housing bolts.

You only have to loosen 1 nut on the mounts since it just allows the engine to adjust and settle back into place.

Just make sure the snub mount is not touching any part of the housing other wise you will get vibration. The snub is just a pivot point mount and keeps the engine from twisting at an angle when the rear of the transmission wants to move side/side.
 

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Hey i know this is too old post for anyone to follow it yet but if anyone sees this msg especially @bluesilk can you tell if you solved this problem?
I have exactly the same issue, new motor mounts causing a lot more vibrations tho the chassis than the old ones. The engine feels more solid and stable when driving but the vibrations at idle are so annoying.
I checked the snub mount and it looks pretty ok centered in the carrier but i still get vibrations.
 

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I got it from local dealer in my country. They are Febi Blistein.
I can feel they are solid and much better from the old factory ones (who had been abused for about 250.000km, and one was leaked)
While driving and starting/turning off the engine there are completely no vibrations with the new mounts just when car is idle it's vibrating like diesels and this engine should be almost not noticeable when working.
 

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After many years of observing peoples experience on this board, the rule for mounts seems to be this: Aftermarket mounts either don't last as long, or vibrate more, than VW original. You may be experiencing the latter. I've replaced the mounts on more than one Passat with genuine parts, and never experienced an increase in vibration.
 
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